Budget Roofbars - Farad steel

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user 816

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Jan 20, 2015
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Had to get new roofbars due to the PHEV's integrated rails (much prefer 'proper' raised rails like our old Outlander) for occasional use with our topbox.

These were the best value I could find, fitted today and they seem fine, strong enough (75kg) and attach securely. Slightly more fiddly than our old Mont Blanc's but not bad and no wind noise on a test drive.

£59.99 - 5% discount with 'new customer' code = £56.99 free delivery.

154411s.jpg


http://www.npautoparts.co.uk/travel-touring-c5/car-roof-bars-c126/mitsubishi-outlander-2013-2015-5-door-suv-steel-roof-bars-p83087

Price includes the basic bars and the appropriate foot kit.
 
outofyorkshire said:
I have the Aero Alloy versions (cant remember where from :lol: ) but used them last summer with a large roofbox...

Agree with your comments ;)

Thanks.

My Mont Blancs had built in levers to tighten the clamps, these could then be locked down so no chance of coming loose.

These just have the bolts tightened with the security key, did you get any issues with working loose? how often did you check the tension?

Cheers
 
BobEngineer said:
outofyorkshire said:
I have the Aero Alloy versions (cant remember where from :lol: ) but used them last summer with a large roofbox...

Agree with your comments ;)

Thanks.

My Mont Blancs had built in levers to tighten the clamps, these could then be locked down so no chance of coming loose.

These just have the bolts tightened with the security key, did you get any issues with working loose? how often did you check the tension?

Cheers

I was a little dubious at first of them working loose too so checked a couple of times on the way down south, but they never moved.
The roof box was well loaded as we were camping !
I did tighten then up well (until the key twists) and never had an issue
The only issue I had was that my full length roofbox means I need to remove the aerial :lol:
 
outofyorkshire said:
BobEngineer said:
outofyorkshire said:
I have the Aero Alloy versions (cant remember where from :lol: ) but used them last summer with a large roofbox...

Agree with your comments ;)

Thanks.

My Mont Blancs had built in levers to tighten the clamps, these could then be locked down so no chance of coming loose.

These just have the bolts tightened with the security key, did you get any issues with working loose? how often did you check the tension?

Cheers

I was a little dubious at first of them working loose too so checked a couple of times on the way down south, but they never moved.
The roof box was well loaded as we were camping !
I did tighten then up well (until the key twists) and never had an issue
The only issue I had was that my full length roofbox means I need to remove the aerial :lol:

Many thanks for that. Also I realised last night looking at the instructions again that I didn't do up the underneath bolts fully after sliding the mounts to suit the rails, they could work loose too so will sort them out at the weekend.

First trip in mid Feb. so all set.
 
Ah yes those underneath bolts :evil:
You have just reminded me of the fun I had with those :evil: on the alloy bars the feet would either slide easily or not move :twisted:
I could just not find a point where they would slide but stay put while i tightened them up :cry:
I ended up using a pencil to mark the bars as i could not tighten them on the car and every time I lifted the bars off they moved :cry:
Got there in the end tho :D Good Luck :lol:

Ps The rails on the car are not parallel so you also need to mount in the same position every time too :eek:
 
Err... The rails have location holes. If you use the proper adapter it will have pins to fix it at the correct location. Then you can tighten the screws to a propertorque ( see the instructions)
I use the setting 18 on a Makita electric screwdriver/hand drill.

And I used the original bars which are clearly better adapted. Why skimp 100 quid on a 40.000 £ car?
 
outofyorkshire said:
jaapv said:
And I used the original bars which are clearly better adapted. Why skimp 100 quid on a 40.000 £ car?

Because I only uses them once a year for an odd weekend away & I am a tight Yorkshireman :lol:

Ditto!! except I am not a Yorkshireman..

Use twice a year, as long as they are secure it would be madness to spend £150 on a couple of steel tubes. Also the fittings on these will fit the car I plan to get for my wife when we replace hers, she is more likely to need the box than I am.

Its not a £40,000 car if all your paying is a contribution to the lease and the company pays the most and you end up not owning much of it, its just a car like any car.
 
I'm looking to buy the Thule Wingbar edge.

Looking at the instructions, I note they clamp on. However there are screw hole ready in the rails for fixing.

Why is the Mitsi and Thule fixing different, despite being the same product?
Screw in would seem more secure, but never had issues with clamp on ones though.

Thanks
 
BobEngineer said:
outofyorkshire said:
jaapv said:
And I used the original bars which are clearly better adapted. Why skimp 100 quid on a 40.000 £ car?

Because I only uses them once a year for an odd weekend away & I am a tight Yorkshireman :lol:

Ditto!! except I am not a Yorkshireman..

Use twice a year, as long as they are secure it would be madness to spend £150 on a couple of steel tubes. Also the fittings on these will fit the car I plan to get for my wife when we replace hers, she is more likely to need the box than I am.

Its not a £40,000 car if all your paying is a contribution to the lease and the company pays the most and you end up not owning much of it, its just a car like any car.
well, if the car is a freebie all the more reason not to make too much of a small extra contribution. :p
 
jaapv said:
Those are not screw holes, but plain. Mitsubishi is clamp on as well, but uses location pins. Very secure.

So the 4 holes with silvers caps on, to the inside edge of each roof rail - is this the actual place where the actual rail itself is mounted to the body then?

Looking at the Thule site, it shows two options for fitting bars - one for the flush rails, and another to the roof itself. Roof rails used to be like this - they were sometimes an option.

So to confirm, you're also saying that all bars clamp on, with no physical bolt?

On my old car, with a Thule kit on, I had the bars on for years non-stop, and checked the torque once every 3 months - never had issue with them at all. Got a large Roof box too.

I agree though - nice to buy a good looking/quality set of bars to match the car. You'll also sell a decent Thule set on e-bay when you sell the car, and get quite a bit back.

Cheers.
 
Do the Thule-branded bars have locator pins to engage with those holes like the Mitsubishi-branded Thule ones apparently do? I looked at the Thule instructions and I couldn't see any sign of pins - and they show some flexibility the fore-aft position of the bars, whereas with pins the bars must always go in the same place. I guess if they are really the same then I'll go for whichever is the lower price, but if the pin type are more secure then I'd pay extra for that.

The Thule kit I am looking at is "Rapid Fit Foot Pack 753" with "4030 Rapid Fitting Kit" - https://roofracks.co.uk/pdf-reader/web/viewer.html?file=https://roofracks.co.uk/_pdf/4030.pdf

Thanks,

-- Steve
 
I have the Thule kit you are looking at buying. And no, it does not have any pins to fit the Mitsu holes. In fact I thought of just drilling a hole in them and attach a screw of right diameter to get a pin but they actually do not go low enough on the roofrack to cover the Mitsu holes:-(. On the other hand I have never had any problem with them slipping, even after emergency braking on highway with overloaded skibox.

One thing to consider is if you are going to carry really long and bulky items, like a canoe or a kajak, then you want maximum space between the bars and cannot use the holes. So I am happy with the Thule I got
 
That's a good point about having longer spacing for some loads. That said, in 12 years of my Forester I always put the bars in the same spots - over the B and C pillars, on the assumption it's strongest there. I think the Outlander's holes are also above the pillars, so it'll probably work fine for me.

-- Steve
 
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