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 Post subject: Rear Power Supply
PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2015 8:33 am 
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Location: Cambridge UK
I am considering adding a 12v supply to the rear of the car to ONLY power the rear view dash cam. This will be a very low current item.

I was thinking of connecting it to the battery in the rear of the car via a voltage limiting device such as this

Image

So, the wiring would be (Battery) to (Protector) to (12V to 5V adapter) to (Camera). No plugs and sockets, all connections soldered / heat shrunk and terninated in a micro USB camera specific plug supplying 12V 500ma (fused at 500ma).

The voltage monitor protects the vehicle battery from excessive discharging. If the battery voltage drops below 11.6 V under load, the voltage monitor interrupts the voltage supply to the camera. Once the battery voltages exceeds 12.8 V, the consumer unit is again supplied with voltage.

Once triggered, the battery, now not under load, will recover up to about 12.7 V or thereabouts after a few minutes. This stops the unit retriggering to an "on" state and the camera will remain unpowered until next time the car is running and the battery charges and goes over 12.8 V. 12.7 V would be sufficient to power the car boot sequence. It also means the battery life will not be affected by any deep discharge which can bugger a battery up in very short time.

When the Waeco unit shuts down at 11.6v under load, the battery will recover itself back to 12.65v after a few minutes once the load is taken off.

This is down to the battery voltage drop being caused by the Load, so when the Load does not get its power the voltage returns to a higher state, but not high enough for the Waeco to reinstate power. This lower voltage is not enough for the Waeco unit to turn back on again, so once the car has been started, the battery voltage will soon get past 12.8v and the the Waeco will re-introduce the power to the camera.

The unit would be wired to the battery via a 500 ma fuse so as to ensure it is not used for anything other than the intended camera power. Other than the micro USB lead for the camera, no other outlet would be made. The cig lighter connectors shown in the photo would be cut off so as to prevent anything else being powered. I would stress, again, that this is to power the camera ONLY and is not intended to be there for anything else.

Comments from any "sparks" out there welcome,

Jeff

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2015 Outlander PHEV GX4h Glacier Blue
Cree Sidelights - Osram Night Breakers - Reverse Sensors - LED DRL - Rear Power Sockets - Front & Rear Dash Cams
Removable Tow Bar

1993 Red Eunos Roadster - Imported form Japan 2016 - 136,000 kms
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 Post subject: Re: Rear Power Supply
PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2015 5:10 pm 
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Location: South Australia
Do you really want the camera to be recording 24/7 :?: I have a dash cam and only record when the car is powered ON.

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 Post subject: Re: Rear Power Supply
PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 12:26 am 
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Location: Cambridge UK
gwatpe wrote:
Do you really want the camera to be recording 24/7 :?: I have a dash cam and only record when the car is powered ON.


Thanks for the reply; I would like "fit-and-forget". With the front camera mod I posted, what happens is that the power will be removed after 5 minutes (internal light auto power down) and then the battery in the camera will run out after an hour or so. When power is restored, the camera will start charging and power up. On power up, it auto starts recording. Alternatively, if I remember, I can hit power on / power off on the camera each time. Fine for me.

My wife, on the otherhand, doesn't like more than one remote for the TV/Satellite, thinks Chromecast and Amazon Fire are "gadgets", mobiles should be Nokia and "just to make calls on" - so going through a pre-flight check before driving off is not viable :lol:

For the rear camera, as there is no readily available power outlet (shame on you Mitsubishi) options were as I described or running a cable from the front to the rear. That is possible, but I really didn't want to run a cable in the edge of the headlining as it "may" interfere with airbag deployment. Probably wouldn't, but . . . . More thought required.

Jeff

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2015 Outlander PHEV GX4h Glacier Blue
Cree Sidelights - Osram Night Breakers - Reverse Sensors - LED DRL - Rear Power Sockets - Front & Rear Dash Cams
Removable Tow Bar

1993 Red Eunos Roadster - Imported form Japan 2016 - 136,000 kms
.
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 Post subject: Re: Rear Power Supply
PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 3:28 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2014 5:25 am
Posts: 1102
Location: South Australia
The battery in these incident type cameras are best kept charged. My dash cam eventually goes flat on longer trips with the screen ON. Loses the plot when this happens. Some units do power OFF when the power is turned OFF. I now keep the screen ON for only 1 min on power ON, to check the unit is working. Battery has recovered and hopefully will not give trouble until it needs to be replaced.

Do you plan on leaving the light powered ON at the switch and use the automatic power down function with the car powered OFF ?? Driving at night with the trunk light ON will be a distraction.

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 Post subject: Re: Rear Power Supply
PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 3:53 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 01, 2015 6:35 am
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Location: Cambridge UK
gwatpe wrote:
Do you plan on leaving the light powered ON at the switch and use the automatic power down function with the car powered OFF ?? Driving at night with the trunk light ON will be a distraction.


I would take the bulb out, like the front one - but then I lose the light in the boot/trunk. ‹‹ sigh ››

WHY, Mitsubishi, WHY did you save $2 by not fitting a 12 V socket in the back of the car.

I could, of course, disassemble the box between the front seats and extend the power socket there into the rear, but I was trying to avoid that. I am also building a tiny vehicle tracker that will be fitted into the centre box (maybe, depending on signal strength) and it will plug into that socket. It measures about 3cm by 2cm by 1cm including the SIM card and memory card. It is addressable by TXT message from another phone and responds with Google Maps co-ordinates. Stick a PAYG SIM card in there with £10 credit and it's done. That is Project 3 at the moment. I should see change from £30 including the unit and £10 SIM

I have bought this, but will put it in a small project box and securely fix it to save it being half-inched or taken out if the car is stolen.

Image

Image

There were others, already in a small box but this one has the following addressible TXT functions which I could not find on other units.

Image

Jeff

_________________
2015 Outlander PHEV GX4h Glacier Blue
Cree Sidelights - Osram Night Breakers - Reverse Sensors - LED DRL - Rear Power Sockets - Front & Rear Dash Cams
Removable Tow Bar

1993 Red Eunos Roadster - Imported form Japan 2016 - 136,000 kms
.
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 Post subject: Re: Rear Power Supply
PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 8:19 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 01, 2015 6:35 am
Posts: 381
Location: Cambridge UK
Spoke with an Auto Electrician today (who was fitting reversing sensors to the car).

He recommended something like this

Image

He said it was O.K. to wire to the battery in the boot/trunk via a Battery Saver (as already discussed earlier). He said it was a better solution than a 12V socket as someone else may plug something power hungry in and not knowing the effect it may have on the battery. Using a USB type socket restricts what can be plugged in. GBP 7 / USD 12 / AUS 15 approx.

Sorted! Awaiting delivery. I will do an install when it arrives and post.

Jeff

_________________
2015 Outlander PHEV GX4h Glacier Blue
Cree Sidelights - Osram Night Breakers - Reverse Sensors - LED DRL - Rear Power Sockets - Front & Rear Dash Cams
Removable Tow Bar

1993 Red Eunos Roadster - Imported form Japan 2016 - 136,000 kms
.
Image Image


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 Post subject: Re: Rear Power Supply
PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 8:57 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 08, 2014 8:26 am
Posts: 58
Location: Sweden
Easy done!

Image

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 Post subject: Re: Rear Power Supply
PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 7:37 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2015 6:51 am
Posts: 23
Location: Aylesbury UK
jthspace wrote:
[ I am also building a tiny vehicle tracker that will be fitted into the centre box (maybe, depending on signal strength) and it will plug into that socket. It measures about 3cm by 2cm by 1cm including the SIM card and memory card. It is addressable by TXT message from another phone and responds with Google Maps co-ordinates. Stick a PAYG SIM card in there with £10 credit and it's done. That is Project 3 at the moment. I should see change from £30 including the unit and £10 SIM

I have bought this, but will put it in a small project box and securely fix it to save it being half-inched or taken out if the car is stolen.



There were others, already in a small box but this one has the following addressible TXT functions which I could not find on other units.



Jeff

The tracker unit sounds interesting. Are you able to give supplier contact details?

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 Post subject: Re: Rear Power Supply
PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 8:49 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 01, 2015 6:35 am
Posts: 381
Location: Cambridge UK
Oscarman wrote:
The tracker unit sounds interesting. Are you able to give supplier contact details?


eBay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301749395283

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2015 Outlander PHEV GX4h Glacier Blue
Cree Sidelights - Osram Night Breakers - Reverse Sensors - LED DRL - Rear Power Sockets - Front & Rear Dash Cams
Removable Tow Bar

1993 Red Eunos Roadster - Imported form Japan 2016 - 136,000 kms
.
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 Post subject: Re: Rear Power Supply
PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 6:39 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 01, 2015 6:35 am
Posts: 381
Location: Cambridge UK
paa451843 wrote:
Easy done!

Image


Nice pic, thanks. I will be fitting this to the panel via the Waeco voltage monitor. As I said, this enables automatic cut-off at low battery voltage and cut-in at normal voltage. Status indicated by LEDs.

Cut-off voltage: 11.6 volts DC / Cut-in voltage: 12.8 volts DC / Current: 5 amps max.

The modual I am fitting has a power socket and USB sockets as well as a voltmeter. I will be wiring the voltmeter via a toggle so that the display is only on when selected. It is on/off/on so switched one way will give a voltage read-out, switch in the centre and everything off and switch the other way and the sockets are live.

I will post pictures as I do the install, but at the moment I am measuring the wire lengths and fitting spade terminals. My 'leccy friend also insists I solder the wires as well as crimp, so digging out the flux and solder - ah! I still have lead solder, hard to get now :(

Image

Image

More soon . . . .

_________________
2015 Outlander PHEV GX4h Glacier Blue
Cree Sidelights - Osram Night Breakers - Reverse Sensors - LED DRL - Rear Power Sockets - Front & Rear Dash Cams
Removable Tow Bar

1993 Red Eunos Roadster - Imported form Japan 2016 - 136,000 kms
.
Image Image


Top
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