Extension cable?

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vlado61

Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2017
Messages
14
Location
KIDDERMINSTER
I've just got a 2017 Outlander PHEV Juro. The only socket I can use to charge the car is 3 meters too far for the cable that came with the car. On the cable and in the instructions it is mentioned not to use extension cables to charge the vehicle. Is it absolutely contraindicated or I can try to recharge it with an extension cable until the home charger unit is installed in 2 weeks? What is going to happen if I use an extension cable?
Sorry if the question is too stupid.
 
When I visit my mother or mother-in-law 150 miles away, the only way I can recharge is by using an extension cable and the supped charger. The extension I use has the outdoor "arctic" cable 3x 1.5 mm2 conductors with an IP14 rated outdoor socket and an inline RCD near the plug.
If you use an extension reel make sure it has 3 x 1.5 mm2 conductors and is used fully reeled or it is likely to overheat. My preference is to use a loose extension cable rather than a reel.
 
Ditto.
Used one at home when I first got the car prior to fitting a new socket near the garage door, and regularly use one when charging at M-i-L.
As above, make sure it's the right capacity, and unroll if it's on a spool. And use an RCD if it's not a protected outlet.
 
vlado61 said:
I've just got a 2017 Outlander PHEV Juro. The only socket I can use to charge the car is 3 meters too far for the cable that came with the car. On the cable and in the instructions it is mentioned not to use extension cables to charge the vehicle. Is it absolutely contraindicated or I can try to recharge it with an extension cable until the home charger unit is installed in 2 weeks? What is going to happen if I use an extension cable?
Sorry if the question is too stupid.

Perfectly reasonable question. The three pin charger cable provided with the car draws a max of 10amps. Mitsubishi takes a belt and braces approach to safety. They insist that 13amp socket used should be the only socket on a spur from the house consumer unit and that extension leads should not used.

It is possible to take a more pragmatic approach. For example my outdoor sockets are on a downstairs 30amp ring main. This ring is only ever used by a couple of TVs and an occasional vacuum cleaner. Plugging a 10amp PHEV load onto this ring could not overload it. I created a specific extension lead utilising 16amp rated arctic cable (2.5mm core) from a caravan hook up. I fitted a quality rubberised plug on one end and a waterproof enclosed socket on the other end. I then connected the PHEV charger plug to this socket. This arrangement worked fine and no part of it even got warm to the touch. It is important that the extension lead is fully extended and not coiled up when in use.

Mitsubishi’s cautious approach is understandable. If one hooked up to an already heavily loaded ring, used a cheap non weatherproof extension lead and left most of it coiled round a drum when in use then it could be certainly be dangerous.
 
Just in case that it should not be obvious to every reader:
When using a cable drum under high load like loading the PHEV, it is important to unroll the cable completely for avoiding overheating of the cable.

Harald
 
Yes, good advice. I once melted a cable extension reel by using a 2.5kW heater in my garage! :eek: Do please completely uncoil it, if you use one.
 
The heavy duty extension cable from amazon arrived - thanks MikkB!
First battery charging executed successfully - no problems whatsoever. I've driven all morning only on EV in the snow. Very happy indeed!
 
Hi,

How long is the standard cable that comes with the Outlander PHEV? just the standard 3 Pin plug cable
 
Oh great. Thanks for the information.

Would this be suitable do you think?

Masterplug CT1510/IPS 13amp 1 Socket IP54 Weatherproof 15m Extension Lead With Cable Tidy https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006X09WDC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5sJsBbB0N2VRJ
 
Brumgav said:
Oh great. Thanks for the information.

Would this be suitable do you think?

Masterplug CT1510/IPS 13amp 1 Socket IP54 Weatherproof 15m Extension Lead With Cable Tidy https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006X09WDC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5sJsBbB0N2VRJ


I don't know - I bought my extension lead from Tough Leads as they appear to make every attempt to make them to the best quality available. I also don't know what the consequences of using a 15 metre extension might be. Mine's only 5 metres. It also depends on what you're intending to plug it into as well. Ideally a dedicated socket (a good quality socket on its own radial circuit from the consumer unit - no other sockets on the same circuit). Very new houses will always have better quality and specification wiring to an older property, unless an older property has been re-wired recently. I'm no expert on this but there are other threads on this forum that have discussed this subject in the past. You're always better off with a proper, 'wallpod' (such as a Rolec) charge point.
 
I've used this Masterplug CT1510/IPS 13amp 1 Socket IP54 Weatherproof 15m Extension Lead many times completely successfully over several years in various places when normal options such as a dedicated post is not available. As others have said make sure the socket it is connected to is up to the task, (ie at least 10 amps available) it is fully unwound and for good measure I usually add a RCD at source in case a consumer unit is not protected properly.
 
Thanks for all the replies.

How do I ensure the socket is up to the job? This reference to 10Amps?

I would be using a socket in the kitchen that is a double socket but nothing connected to it
 
Brumgav said:
Thanks for all the replies.

How do I ensure the socket is up to the job? This reference to 10Amps?

I would be using a socket in the kitchen that is a double socket but nothing connected to it

Hi Brumgav,

The issue is what else is connected to specific ring main and in particular what may be powered on at the same time as you are charging the Outlander. Kitchen rings often have a range of power hungry items connected, kettle, dishwasher, washing machine, tumble drier, etc. If you have a choice of sockets on different ring mains that you could use to charge your car then my advice is to choose the ring with the least typical load. If you have to use the kitchen socket you mention and you have the type of white goods I mention connected to the same ring main, then I recommend you set your PHEV to charge in the middle of the night when nothing else is likely to be on.

The best solution is to have a dedicated car charger installed. There is a fairly generous government subsidy available for new cars. I don’t know if it is also available for second hand cars.
 
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