nzphev said:Something else I've found out is after about 30 mins of charging it drops down to only 1 or 2 amps for a few mins, almost 10 gone so far. So I unplugged it and plugged in again and boom, straight back up to 14.5 amps. So what is the car software doing during the charging phase? I will track exactly what it does for a whole charge and perhaps stick a timer on there to avoid the trickle charge sections. Just can't figure out why they won't let the car charge up faster.
gwatpe said:I have seen the gaps in the recharging, but not every time my PHEV was recharged. I have no way of checking a correlation with a cooling event. Am certain the pause is not related to any balancing action alone. I have not seen a schematic of the battery internal electrics, but the only time I see any cell imbalance, up to 5mV is towards the top of the recharge cycle. The cells in my PHEV still register as Excellent condition, with typical 1-2mV difference. Battery recharging is still suspended, so may only be a cooling system operation.
Fast recharging results in a lower amount of energy stored in the battery, and 10 mins in around 180-250mins, depending on current available is surely not a problem. Sure 10mins in a rapid recharge that might be 20mins could be considered a problem.
jaapv said:Well, don't forget that the dealer and Mitsubishi are able to read out the charging history and that a battery condition check is part of the resale procedure.
The car takes about 3 1/2 hours to charge overnight. How long do you sleep?
nzphev said:jaapv said:Well, don't forget that the dealer and Mitsubishi are able to read out the charging history and that a battery condition check is part of the resale procedure.
The car takes about 3 1/2 hours to charge overnight. How long do you sleep?
I charge it during daylight hours when the sun is shining and we are generating peak power from our solar panels.
This gap has been discussed many times. Last time very recent: http://www.myoutlanderphev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=22611#p22611.nzphev said:Something else I've found out is after about 30 mins of charging it drops down to only 1 or 2 amps for a few mins, almost 10 gone so far. So I unplugged it and plugged in again and boom, straight back up to 14.5 amps. So what is the car software doing during the charging phase? I will track exactly what it does for a whole charge and perhaps stick a timer on there to avoid the trickle charge sections. Just can't figure out why they won't let the car charge up faster.
Jaapv, I would think both are violations of local regulations?jaapv said:Actually I uprated the circuit of my home 16A charging box to 25A to keep that ring open for other appliances.
I assume your sauna is hooked up to a double (kookgroep) or even triple (krachtgroep) fuse, and not a single one?jaapv said:Not if one has the main circuits rated to provide three-phase 400V power as I have. I had to do so to provide power to my Sauna.
I assume your 'krachtgroep' is 3x16 ampere (allowing for 11.1 kW)? And not 3x20 or even more? To my knowledge, according to NEN1010, a single group in a normal house is not supposed to be more than 16 ampere. You can have more, but than you need a substation where the one group is split into several groups of each 16 amps max. But then you can hardly call it a single group (or kring) anymore.jaapv said:Krachtgroep. The Sauna takes 12 kW. The Electricity company uprated the main fuses too. No DIY install
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