Charging dilemma

Thanks for all advice.

On balance I will do the same as Lance and leave it switched on until I decide which 16 amp charger to buy.


Although it's nice to feel that I am helping the environment my main reason for purchasing this vehicle was that it fits my driving profile and load space requirements more than anything else I could find or afford.



Chris

Just make sure you have it secured so it can't be pinched! I was able to padlock mine to something else.

Lance said:

elm70 said:

ChrisMiller said:

There isn't a set speed that will automatically start the ICE, it's all about power demand (and also the rate of change in power demand). It's certainly possible to get the PHEV up to 80 mph without triggering the ICE - but at that speed, the battery won't last for 26 miles!

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Not sure

Keeping over 120km/h and it will cause to start the ICE even if EV range is over 10km .. if this speed is left for over 10seconds

Same I experienced with over 80 or 90km/h if the EV range is less then 5km .. ICE will start if this speed is kept for over 5 seconds or around

Can can do over 130km/h in EV mode .. but at some speed it does start ICE even if 60kw power is not exceed.

At least on my car firmware this is what I notice

If I take motorway and I want to be in EV mode, I set CC to just a bit less 120km/h for be sure to don't kick in ICE

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Your car seems quite unique. My car will not fire up the ice at 120kph/75mph regardless of how long I sit there for. Mine only ever fires up the ice at dual carriageway speeds with 1 mile of EV range showing, and it happily cut the ice and use up the rest of the available battery if speed drops to 35mph/56kph or lower. I also had the same experience with the car I took for a 3 day test drive.

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regardless of power demand, the ICE wil fire:
- At speeds of approx 125 km/h at any level of charge
- At speeds of approx 60 km/h when level of charge is less than 30.5%
- At any speed when level of charge is less than 26.5% (or was it 25.5%?)

I am talking about real gps speed here.

anko said:

I am talking about real gps speed here.

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And (I assume) you're talking about the true state of charge, rather than what's indicated on the car's dashboard display. I can't argue with the 125kph figure, I usually cruise at just below 80mph, but that's indicated, so the true speed is probably a couple of mph less, which would be just below 125kph. Next time I'm on the m'way, I'll speed up to just above 80 and see what happens (if there are no plods around ).

Understand the logic of the ICE starting in this PHEV it is hard

I did notice that when using CC I have a different behaviour then when cruising without exceeding 60kw of power ... using CC I can run at 120km/h till EV range goes to zero or 1km

I think the PHEV does also take into place the temperature of the ICE ... for decide if it is time to start or not it

I had cases in winter that pressing charge button did not fire the ICE and it kept using EV mode
I have seen ICE starting with over 5km EV range left, at around 80km/h .. and I guess the trigger was because the ICE was "warm" since was used before in save or charging mode

About the level reported by anko ... per my understanding ~30% is when EV range is ZERO ... and ~26% is the extra 4% of battery usage after EV is zero if low power and slow speed is used

What does amaze me ... is that at 3.813v per cell .. real SOC is consider 29.5% ... that is looking a very very pessimistic SOC for a cell that is nominal 3.7v and charge up to 4.1v .. I'm sure that hacking the trigger from 3.82v down 3.75v it will allow to have way more EV range without compromising the battery life .. actually for me it is worst to keep the battery up to 4.1v down to 3.82v .. instead will be more healthy for the battery to be used between from 4.05v down to 3.75v .. since the car normally spend more time fully charged end not fully discharged (but where the car spend most of the time, it is up to the usage .. some people have a PHEV only for take tax benefit, and then it is used as normal petrol car .. and never charged .. so .. for this usage the selected battery working range make a bit sense .. even if leaving a lithium cell all time at 3.75v or 3.8v does not make any difference for my knowledge .. mainly is keeping under 3.7v or the nominal voltage that start to harm the battery life/capacity

PS: Another funny case .. is when ICE start because the battery is low .. and then at some speed, the car like to keep parallel mode .. and it end up that ICE + Battery is used .. so using fuel and battery on the same time .. :roll: .. as well .. if I'm in B0 and "glider mode" ... I found odd that ICE is kept stick to the traction wheels ... it will be more efficient let the car roll on its own .. and use the ICE for purely charge the battery

ChrisMiller said:

anko said:

I am talking about real gps speed here.

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And (I assume) you're talking about the true state of charge, rather than what's indicated on the car's dashboard display.[\quote]Indeed. Roughly 1 bar or 0 bar.

Lance said:

Just make sure you have it secured so it can't be pinched! I was able to padlock mine to something else.

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Actually I have never heard about a cable being stolen. Anybody?

jaapv said:

Lance said:

Just make sure you have it secured so it can't be pinched! I was able to padlock mine to something else.

Click to expand...

Actually I have never heard about a cable being stolen. Anybody?

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PHEV are not so common here ... that's why :mrgreen:

I know somebody here that got stolen a rear mirror .. when his BMW M6 was left parked outside overnight

In my case .. my "ex" BMW 320d ... once did disappear overnight here .. but only once :mrgreen:

Well, they once stole my steering wheel airbag..