3 years old range on battery?

Re the + and - signs: I asked that too. The dealer said it’s because paddling up (-) is like changing down a gear. Kind of makes sense, but a bit odd - trying to pretend to be a “normal” car I guess.

Not been out in my car today but yesterday got about 25 miles (about 16 degrees?) I think - my car is getting on for 4 years old - I’ve done 44,500 miles.
Cheers
H

I always thought they were flippers from ice cars with automatic gearboxes and they didn't bother to think about the signs on them.

ELM70:
I should have mention that both EVBatMon and WatchDog works only with a small selection of ODB2 adapters

Click to expand...

Its OK, I saw that and tried ploughing through them but the links were everywhere but the UK so I assumed the principle of avoid the cheap clones - but that didn't work. The PanLong was no good so that's going back and I have now ordered an iCarSoft i620 which is what I should have done in the first place. I spent thousands on a new car then tried to save £20 on the OBD adapter - what am I like?

As Chris Miller says my GX3h doesn't have MMCS - I did save thousands there! For me the important thing was to get the PHEV and I couldn't afford the higher spec with all the gismos. I don't need satnav and I can still use the mirrors for reversing!

I have a monitor almost identical to the Bangood TS-836B you posted. The problem is that the waterproof outside plug has a flap above it so to use the monitor I need to plug in an extension lead, and apart from the fact they say don't use an extension lead, a quick shower could blow a fuse or two. The monitor on the extension lead does work fine - nothing gets hot - and so I am now doing some monitoring that way but it is not a permanent solution. In time I may well put a meter in the wire to external socket.

I don't think a clamp meter will work because the lead has currents going both ways which cancel one another out. A clamp meter is best when you can put it on one of the wires.

All said and done it is now looking as though my batteries are probably not too bad, my last trip was 19.4 miles with a guesstimate of 7 miles still left in the batteries, temperature was a balmy 25C. Replacing the charge took 6.71KwH at a cost of 73p (3.77p per mile). Our Fiesta is currently averaging 13.2p per mile fuel cost, and, of course, it is pumping loads of CO2 into the atmosphere.

So I am now waiting for the OBD adapter to test the batteries SOH and see if I still have a SOH.

Best wishes

Adrian

I'm using an extension cable .. around 10 or 20m extension for power my PHEV charger ..

I have the 220v timer indoor (inside the garage), the extension lead end outdoor (passing under the garage door), but still under a roof, so ... exposed to some elements (mainly animals) but protected from rain .. as well the car charger box and the end of the extension are not on the ground, but on some sort of support

So I can report that the extension lead is not an issue ... it is only 10A or 2200w .. like many garden equipment which works fine with a extension cable

Still I prefer to keep my charging box not exposed to rain/ice and snow ... since the charging box from the previous owner of my PHEV got damage by sitting outside exposed to elements ... so I got a "new" box from the seller, but I want to avoid to spend 200/300 EUR on a new box .. I know nobody here in this forum had an issue on keeping outside the charging box, but I'm not taking any chance .. as well ... I have already a cover next to my garage, made for protect my "weekend car" ... while my PHEV is fully exposed to the elements ..


About my running cost ...

My record daily commute have been done with 4.4kwh per the MMCS .. that means ~0.190kwh per km ... that is around 0.02 Euros per km (I pay a bit less then 10c Euro per KWh in the night .. and around 20c per KWh in the day .. that's why I use a timer on the socket for charge only the car when electricity is cheap

Normally I'm using between 6 to 7kwh ...this may include the cabin pre-heating (even more then 1kwh only for this) .. so ... up to 0.03 Euro per km .. when running in EV mode

When ICE kick in .. I'm not able to do any better then 8L/100km on my PHEV ... that is around 0.1 Euro per km

So .. running in EV mode is around 4 time cheaper then using fuel ... but there are only few km per days that can be done in EV mode .. so .. saving is not so much at the end ... but it is nice to drive in EV mode ... very silent and smooth

moonrakre said:

ELM70:
I should have mention that both EVBatMon and WatchDog works only with a small selection of ODB2 adapters

Click to expand...

Its OK, I saw that and tried ploughing through them but the links were everywhere but the UK so I assumed the principle of avoid the cheap clones - but that didn't work. The PanLong was no good so that's going back and I have now ordered an iCarSoft i620 which is what I should have done in the first place.

Click to expand...

The iCarSoft should be just fine. Is a very decent adapter. BTW: I don't think the problem is that EVBatMon and PHEV WatchDog only work with a small selection of adapters. Both app only perform basic stuff, when it comes to the adapter. Any reliable adapter should be fine (*). I think that the problem is that there are many adapters out there that are not reliable, regardless of the software you throw at it

(*) EvBatMon works with both WiFi and BT adapters. PHEV WatchDog requires a BT adapter, for now. Still waiting for a WiFi version of the Dog.

Thanks to everyone for their help here.

I now have Watchdog working and the battery condition is 80.5% (30.6AH) at 42524 miles. This is a little low compared to the history on the Watchdog website but not low enough for me claim on waranty.

Interesting to see is that the previous owner only charged the car 30 times in the three years he had it. This can't have helped the life of the battery. The car came with no charging cable so I guess this was predictable, he must have lost it early on.

I am now trying to understand it all - there is a lot of information on Watchdog!

elm70:
these paddle are in theory designed for support more convenient driving when going downhill ... but ... people still use these for change the driving behavior of the car, and maximize the regen braking

Click to expand...

I notice that Nissan are now advertising that the new Leaf has a single pedal for accelerating and braking so perhaps they have seen the light and set the regen at something like B9.

Best wishes

Adrian

Hypermiler said:

Re the + and - signs: I asked that too. The dealer said it’s because paddling up (-) is like changing down a gear. Kind of makes sense, but a bit odd - trying to pretend to be a “normal” car I guess.

Click to expand...

While my PHEV was in having it's a/c condenser replaced, they lent me a new Eclipse Cross demontrator. It was automatic and had exactly the same paddles - they made sense as '-' changed down. It only had a small turbo-ed engine, so "changing down" didn't really slow you down as much as the PHEV. And the view through the rear windows was a bit dodgy...

moonrakre said:

I notice that Nissan are now advertising that the new Leaf has a single pedal for accelerating and braking so perhaps they have seen the light and set the regen at something like B9.

Click to expand...

The new Leaf uses the brake disks as part of it's one-pedal party-trick. Regen won't slow you down much at low speeds, so they needed to add friction to come to a complete stop.

moonrakre said:

I notice that Nissan are now advertising that the new Leaf has a single pedal for accelerating and braking so perhaps they have seen the light and set the regen at something like B9.

Adrian

Click to expand...

Does it come with big rubber bumpers like other dodgem cars? Would very useful in London traffic. :lol:

moonrakre said:

I notice that Nissan are now advertising that the new Leaf has a single pedal for accelerating and braking [...]
Best wishes

Adrian

Click to expand...

So has this one...


View attachment 6308723_l.jpg

elm70 said:

...

I also find this that is maybe quite nice: https://www.banggood.com/Broadlink-Wifi-Smart-Plug-SP3S-Power-Meter-Monitor-16A-Timer-Socket-Outlet-Remote-Wireless-Control-p-1249628.html .. maybe it does report over WIFi the consumption ... but apparently only EU plug .. but I'm sure there are also UK version too , after some better search

Click to expand...

I could not resist ...

I did replace my old 220v timer switch .. with a WiFi model from Broadlink, the SP3S ... I did find this available locally in Allegro for little money (the tplink version would have cost me locally around +40% extra)

After 1 day of usage .. I have to say ... it is super nice

I can control my switch on/off of my charger from anywhere via internet ... I can program the timer on my phone .. and monitoring of power consumption is looking quite accurate ... plus some other things

Android apps is quite good for the Chinese standards

This switch consume 1.1w in stand by ... vs 1.3w from my old LCD timer switch .. so I'm also saving ~5wh per day in electricity :mrgreen:

PS: It is nice to see the power consumed while charging ... and I can also see at what time of the day the charging process does end (ok .. only with a 30min accuracy .. since energy data are aggregated every 30min)

Once again, thank you to all those who have posted here.

I have got the PHEVWatchdog working and been using it for a while. My battery condition is on the poor side for the 42000 miles at 81.85%, but not desperately so. I get the impression that the previous owner used it just as a hybrid as there were only 30 charges in the previous three years.

I have now put an extra socket on the outside of my house. This is not hard wired in but is just an IP66 socket with a lead with a plug on the end. The lead runs through a hole in the wall and plugs into a consumption monitor that I bought off eBay which in turn is plugged into a wall socket. Thus I can monitor the charge in KwH to keep a tally of the total cost of motoring.

Each time I charge I put a padlock on the Type 1 plug to deter the local toerags from nicking the cable. I bought that off eBay quite cheap - a Yale Y15030 combination lock, it is just the right size.

I am generally getting 23 miles when fully charged which is enough for my regular trips. I last filled up with petrol at the beginning of April and still have about 19 litres in the tank, having done 720 miles (127 miles per gallon). Just 4 trips out where I had to use the ICE.

So I am very happy with the car. I bought it to get as close as I could to electric driving (without paying out for a Tesla) and I have achieved that.

Best wishes and thanks or the guidance.

Adrian

moonrakre said:

Once again, thank you to all those who have posted here.

I have got the PHEVWatchdog working and been using it for a while. My battery condition is on the poor side for the 42000 miles at 81.85%, but not desperately so. I get the impression that the previous owner used it just as a hybrid as there were only 30 charges in the previous three years.

...

Click to expand...

Thanks for the update

Very strange indeed ... 30 charges only .. and only 81% SOH ....

I was believing that using the car in hybrid mode make the battery to last much longer ... maybe the previous owner did play a lot with charge button and B settings ....

Anyhow .. since you have the wathcdog .. you can assess is the 81% SOH is correct or not ... after driving in EV mode for more then 25km (the more is better) .. then check SOC at end of trip .. and SOC after 2.5h after rest ... if you see jump up in SOC .. it means the SOH is more then what is reported .. and possibly is a matter of time and it will go up, and you will be able to get longer EV range