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Anyone tried the trick of disconnecting the 12 V battery to fool the system and avoid unwanted ICE starts ? "If the auxiliary battery is disconnected, the control timer which operates the engine forcibly will be reset. If the engine does not start for prolonged period after the reset, the fuel...

@JackieG Pity you did not try to disconnect, re-connect the 12 V battery.

You will need a constant "clean" 2.5 kW output. Check the specs. One candidate would be the Honda EU 30i : not cheap, a bit on the heavy side.

DRL use P13W bulbs. Unfortunately, most after market LED "P13W" do not fit without modifying either the bulb or the housing. In both cases you can revert to standard P13W such as the original, factory fitted, ones. (I keep them as spares :idea: ).

Obviously, the Outlander is not the the perfect tool for long trips. Regarding the "Lab-test" : the NDEC cycle, for instance, suppose you will, "on average", re-charge the battery after 25 km (yes, twenty-five kilometers) on petrol only. Under these particular conditions you will get a fuel...

Removing the rear bumper is very easy, installing the wiring harness (if you need it) is the real challenge.

Just lift the boot floor and you wil find an ordinary lead/acid "12 V" battery.

That's exactly what I am saying : contrary to other EV (Leaf), where the "12 V" battery is charged "when necessary" by a battery charger fed from the HT battery, on the Mitsu the "12 V" battery seems to be on "float charge" at all times. The 300 W (or more) ancillary consumption is drawn...

The Nissan Leaf has 3 separate steam gauges to monitor electric consumption : - one for the motor ; - one for heating/AC ; - one for ancillaries. With NO ventilation ; diriving lights ; wipers ; radio etc... the # 3 gauge indicates an average of 300 W. The various PHEV systems probably drain...

+1 I can confirm : a "Zig" (the ICE) can start at any time when the sofware decides that the battery needs charging. +1 All this thread is about "teaspoons of petrol". I prefer to save teaspoons of petrol by preventing any "zig" when the car is stopped. (and any 4.500 rpm hill climb). Others...

I do not dispute these points. Imho, the alleged "reduced efficiency" of the save mode at, or above, 50 % SOC must be balanced with the risks of : 1) running the ICE, due to low SOC, when stopped in traffic (you have no way to choose when the "zig" part of the hybrid mode starts) ; 2) running...

Imho, the reduction in "charge current" you mention starts at a much higher SOC than 50 %. (80 % ??). Look at the regen power : do you see a difference between regen at 50 % SOC ant regen at 70/80 % SOC ? Imho again, as soon as the max regen is reached (3 bars missing), you can switch to "save"...

Sorry for mis-quoting your previous post. As long as you reach your charging point with "---" EV range, I fail to see the difference in cost/efficiency between : - keeping SOC at 50 % / 70 % in "save" mode ; - staying in "normal" mode. I did see a (big) difference in climbing an unexpected...

3 very good reasons for people to use "Save" mode this way : - only the driver knows what is the planned trip (as long as we do not get "intelligent" GPS - OBC link) ; - OK, 30 % charge is enough for "normal driving conditions", BUT, imho, EV is better suited for city driving : using "Save" (or...

AFAIK, the throttle response, in ECO mode, is different but, if you floor the throttle, you will get full acceleration.

AFAIK, the only true impact of the ECO mode on EV range is with the AC system With AC/heater OFF the ECO mode is useless.

This is a PHEV forum, right ? What about V2H ?

You are right about the "connector somewhere", BUT : 1) there is a lot of work to remove/refit all these plastic panels in the boot ; 2) it took me one hour to locate the "connector" (well hidden + senile decay....) ; 3) fitting the harness involves some modifications to the car wiring ( adding...

Fitting the tow bar itself is quite straight-forward ( about 2 hours). Fitting the wire harness is more tricky (expect 3/4 hours).

Agree. One french owner reported using the "Save" mode when he knows he can't complete his trip in pure EV mode. The idea is : 1) discharge the battery enough, (ie + 50 % ?) so that any regen charge will be accepted, before switching to "Save" mode ; 2) have enough juice for up-hills without...