Search results

I run on 38 psi which seems about right as tyre wear is very even. I have been amazed how inaccurate a lot of garage pumps are, so I always recheck with a hand held digital gauge (bought from Halfords) I have to ask why the OP has to 'top up' so often - my tyres have been a constant pressure...

Did mine for less than a tenner ;) Not exactly like the GX5 but close enough in my book :D

Ooh I like them - I always thought the existing rear lights were too brief and could go right across the boot. They really change the look in a good way 8-) Maybe an aftermarket option at some point?

Or you could buy all the letters on ebay and do it yourself ;) ;)

At that sort of mileage you will definitely be better off with the diesel version, regardless of whether you have a fuel card or not. The PHEV is quite nippy when the battery is fully charged but running on an empty battery is not fun at all - quite 'laggy' as the ICE kicks in whenever you want...

Good call Sharky! I am calling at Screwfix first thing tomorrow :D

I would think that as the PHEV is not much of a sports vehicle, this feature would be quite low on the MM priority list :lol: Aside from that, I doubt that a PHEV could even complete a lap of the Nurburgring without a) Holding up traffic or b) Running out of ev juice! [cue the Wacky Races...

Am I missing something here? Surely when you are cruising at a constant speed (under say 74 mph) you are using very little power and if you need to slow down then you either lift off the accelerator to use regenerative braking or, in a more urgent stop, the physical brake. Why on earth would you...

I completely agree and the 'Phevrolet' becomes quite nippy when using Charge mode like this. Now, if only I can ask the London taxi drivers to be a bit more predictable my problem will be solved :lol:

It is worth mentioning that any warning lights on the dash mean a failed MOT (at least in the UK) I recently had this very same problem on my old Mercedes which had a steering sensor warning light which refused to go out - the sensor was fine but the warning light was faulty! Bloomin' thing cost...

Noooooo :shock: Don't even think about those - nowhere nearly bright enough. Only CREE types will do the job .... as long as you can overcome the fast flash thing. I am sticking with old school bulbs for my indicators ... at least for now.

I've got a pair of those in my (twin) reversing lights - really good! p.s. don't forget that watts do not really apply (in light terms anyway) and many of the LED manufacturers just use the wattage as a comparison to conventional bulbs - lumens are the proper way of looking at light levels.

Trex - you really need to get out more :lol: :lol:

I am pretty sure that all cars are calibrated to a tolerance of +10% -0% - at least that was the tolerance when I got my kit car through the SVA test a few years back. In other words they are always going to read fast.

I quite like the new red rear lights - the existing clear ones don't really look right somehow.

Definitely agree - lets not forget that you always take your foot off the gas to slow down and not necessarily to brake. I cant really see how mpg can be affected whatever the setting - Driving style has to be a factor, but surely less braking has to be better as you are not scrubbing off speed...

So did I ...... with a bit of help from a Lithuanian ebayer ;)

If you fit the oem side steps then the front mudflaps have to go - rear ones are ok unless you fit the sports bodykit. Not much difference in ground clearance ....... in town anyway ;)

I originally intended to hard wire mine in but in the end I did as many others have done - use the ciggy lighter socket and hide the wire in the roof trim and under the glove box. The end result is very neat and discrete.

I suppose it all depends on the look you are aiming for ..... ;)