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Getting all the battery cells to the same voltage is another operation that they call cell smoothing. The DBCAM procedure forces the battery monitoring unit to measure the battery actual capacity instead of relying on its estimated capacity. It doesn't change anything to the actual battery...

When I had a similar problem on my car it was at least two weeks a the dealership before I could get a diagnosis. It turns out following Mitsubishi's checklist to diagnose a problem doesn't cover all possibilities and they couldn't pin point the problem. They had several days of discussions with...

He wasn't talking about you, don't worry ;)

You will need an ODB reader and check for error codes, it can be all kind of problems in the EV system unfortunately.

No unfortunately the PHEV needs the battery as a buffer and a high voltage supply. The fossil engine ha only one gear and can only drive the wheels above about 60 km/h. Under that you need the EV system to drive the car.

The battery calibration itself is a slow process, but in the MUT-III software it is called "Battery auto capacity measured". I don't know if you have the same option with the Kingbolen Ediag scanner. You are supposed to do first a BMU reset, and then the Battery auto capacity measured. The car...

Unfortunately most of the error codes from the PHEV system itself don't appear on a regular ODB2 scanner. You will have to use a MUT-III to find the actual error.

IIRC the jump start terminals on the PHEV are behind a 30A fuse and that's the reason why it is a bad idea to use them to jumpstart another car. In theory 15A should be fine, but your inflator could have a much higher in rush current when starting and you could still blow your fuse so I wouldn't...

No it's most probably not the capacitor, and if you read the message again you will see a list of probable causes. In my case it was the PHEV-ECU, the main fuse and the main contactor in the battery pack. What happened probably is the following: - the PHEV-ECU failed, maybe because of the low...

Sounds like bullshit to me. If there were indeed a change in the protocol then a lot of other EVs with CHAdeMO ports would have the same problem. It looks more like a bug in Mitsubishi's CHAdeMO implementation but they don't want to acknowledge it.

I'm in Norway too, and the icy roads warning only beeps just after you start the car. It comes from the same place than all the usual beeps from the car and doesn't sound like the one on the video.

For me Type 2 is a SAE J3068 connector, which is an AC-only triphase version of Type 1. Fitting this type of contact on the Outlander would not provide any difference because of the limitations from the on-board charger. A CCS2 connector would provide fast charging possibilities but you need...

Even with a type 2 plug the on-board charger in the Outlander is limited to 3.7 kW single phase so you wouldn't charge faster than with a type 1 plug.

Without the 12V the main contactor will not engage so the battery pack will be isolated from the rest of the car. There is nothing that can discharge the battery except the monitoring signals from the BMS and those are extreme low currents. The battery level will stay the same for ages.

PhevWatchdog can show you in real time the cell voltages while you drive. It can also log into a text file (csv) a bunch of parameters, including cell minimum, average and maximum voltages, which can help see if there is indeed a cell imbalance. (although I think now that only the paid version...

If it's voltage too high on one of the cells it is possible that cell smoothing will do something but it depends on the actual voltage difference. If the voltage is way higher than the other cells it is more likely that the cell is damaged and will need replacement. An official dealer will only...

Doesn't it start either if you force it into charge mode? Then it might be an issue with the PHEV ECU, or a sensor reporting something preventing it from starting the ICE. Do you have an OBD scanner to see if it reports any error codes?

I didn't loose anything when disconnecting the 12V battery, you can do it without any problem.

You can easily access a battery terminal in the main fuse box near the engine (see in your manual how to jump start the car). You can use the chassis as negative terminal, and the metallic terminal under the red plastic cover as positive.

No they say the fuse was blown. They also say that it is the PHEV ECU that blew the fuse, and that part I really don't understand. I'll get the old parts back and have a look. The other thing I don't understand is that it happened while I was in the car. If the fuse blew there I should have...