This is my first post.
I am an electronic enthusiast and this post is mainly addressed to like minded, who are aware NOT to hold a soldering iron by it's business end
I will be proud owner of a reasonably priced, used PHEV (2014) next week, which will be out of warranty soon.
I am cash poor and had to save long for this.
I live in a country where there is lots of sun, Australia.
I have solar with a DIY off-grid LiFePO4 battery system but want to beef it up.
For the price of a charge adjustable EVSE cable down to 6A, I can purchase 6 x 250W solar panels here, which I will, bringing my off-grid system to 3kW(realistically 2.5kW). There is a grid tied 1.5kW as well where I might syphon off unused energy to the off-grid battery, but that is not the topic.
The objective is to open the Mitsu charge cable box, locate the 1khz pilot and the +/- 12V, cut the pilot wire and trigger with it a 555 timer chip in monostable configuration so it outputs a pulse that can be adjustable between 50-250µsec, feed it to a buffer amp that swings between the +/-12V and connect it back to the pilot wire that goes into the Mitsu.
Furthermore a current sensor in the PV dc line will regulate this PWM signal depending on Solar output.
I actually want to do this with a PIC micro 12F683, just mentioned the 555 to explain the function better.
1 - Are the required wires accessible in the Mitsu supplied controller box and not fully immersed in resin?
2 - Has anybody done this before?
3 - Could the car charge at lower than 6A if the Pilot pulse is less than 10% of the full cycle?
4 - Does the vehicle respond to changes in the PWM duty cycle while charging?
Practically I can do this for $2 material cost and have designed far more complicated things, currently designing/building a 4WD electric mini tractor/ride-on, all drive by wire, later maybe autonomous.
ATM I have no clue what else I will be doing with this PHEV but I already know that the only way to stop me from 'disfiguring' it,
will be to pry the soldering iron from my cold dead hands.
I might think about changing the way the throttle responds like a 'pure' EV mode which I read here: http://www.myoutlanderphev.com/forum/vi ... =10&t=2191
but Vtech ended up selling this https://evtun.com/phev-box.html
To me that just looks like a pre configured throttle potentiometer response curve that I could do with a $1 PIC micro.
I will see how I get on when I can finally drive it, if such a function is actually useful. I am NOT the lead footed type of person but if I find it difficult to drive up the minor slopes which I have on my daily drive without the ICE kicking in, I might look into it.
Unfortunately I am only a hardware geek and know nothing about any engine mapping codes.
It would seem beneficial to have short term higher EV kW output when I need it without the ICE.
In the end it is all about MOSFETs or IBGTs that are controlled with a DC/PWM signal.
My motto: Hardware overrides Software