Battery warranty

Hello dear Outlander users!
I am a fresh, happy, owner of a PHEV MY2014... even though after first long trip consumption is 9.4l/100km with 300km of high way and 120 of national road.
ODO meter shows 109000km. After a complete charge, EV millage is 29km. I've read somewhere on internet that that the drive battery is guaranteed 70% for 8 years or 160000km. Did anybody had the same issue? I have a service schedule next week and I would like to be a bit informed about this possibilty.
Thank you.

Hi, welcome on the forum,
The range indicator, also known as guessometer takes in account the previous trip and the EV achieved there, it assumes your next trip will be identical.
Before raising alarms I would suggest a moderate trip and look at the outcome on the guessometer.

Another option, if you have the MMCS, is setting the price of KWH at 0,10 and check the amount of the charge. It charges 70% of 12KwH so you would have 0,84 charging cost. It’s a rough measure but gives some indication on battery health.

Just my 2 cents

On this forum there’s a lot to be found on battery health. enjoy !

Twee,
Thank you for your reply!
I drove it as eco as possible. I already did 8 charges. The guessometer shows same. The real diatance travelled is even less. Again, drove it as eco as possible.
I will go tommorow to MMC. Will see what they have to say about it. My question is, what are the official warranty terms regarding the battery.
As for thr MMCS, I have a kenwood unit. I would like to upgrade it, if possible, in order to have EV info, but I do not know what unit I cann get to do so.
Thanks again.
I'll keep you posted.

The warranty is different in every country. Here in the US it's different in the state of California. For most of the US the battery is guaranteed against failure for 10 years, but it is not defined what failure means. It appears that a degradation of more than 30% is not considered a failure. I think as long as the car can move a few feet on electric power it's still "good".

In California there is a definition of degradation - I think -20 or -30%. Oddly, Mitsubishi has programmed the car to drop the capacity on a timed basis, so after 2 years you will expect to lose 20 to 30% unless you are "unfortunate" enough to have your 12V battery go dead right when you try to charge it. I had that "problem" and now my capacity has risen from 33Ah to 40Ah. Unfortunate.

N6IO said:

.... unless you are "unfortunate" enough to have your 12V battery go dead right when you try to charge it. I had that "problem" and now my capacity has risen from 33Ah to 40Ah. Unfortunate.

Click to expand...

Hey, that's interesting. If someone were to do it intentionally, what might the exact steps be please? I ask as there is a lot of complex talk of the Lindqvist method, A-method, D-method etc and I wondered if through trial and error there is a fairly certain methodical step to achieving this. I don't have a spare 12v battery, should I find one?!

VillageIdiotDan said:

Hey, that's interesting. If someone were to do it intentionally, what might the exact steps be please? I ask as there is a lot of complex talk of the Lindqvist method, A-method, D-method etc and I wondered if through trial and error there is a fairly certain methodical step to achieving this. I don't have a spare 12v battery, should I find one?!

Click to expand...

Hey VillageIdiotDan, I found the below on YouTube the other day. I haven’t tried this yet. The second one appears to be the more straightforward description...

https://youtu.be/PrbQaxrnSxk

https://youtu.be/K5P_MpAnxbg

Gheorghe said:

Twee,
Thank you for your reply!
I drove it as eco as possible. I already did 8 charges. The guessometer shows same. The real diatance travelled is even less. Again, drove it as eco as possible.
I will go tommorow to MMC. Will see what they have to say about it. My question is, what are the official warranty terms regarding the battery.
As for thr MMCS, I have a kenwood unit. I would like to upgrade it, if possible, in order to have EV info, but I do not know what unit I cann get to do so.
Thanks again.
I'll keep you posted.

Click to expand...

Get an OBD2 adapter and instal PHEVwatchDog apps on your android phone.

Check on the list of supported OBD2 adapter first, not all will work with the apps.

Once you have the app on your phone you can check the "real" battery condition.

In some countries there is a warranty up to 8y and 160.000lm for SOH below 70% ... so you might want to check this too with an official service.

Note that 70% SOH warranty, if applicable, it is only after the car get a DBCAM procedure which normally bounce up the SOH of the car.

If you want to reset and get artificially 100% SOH in your battery ... there are two threads here describing this .. way better then videos of people that did not even try the method ...


PS: A PHEV from 2014 with 109.000km .. should have around 85% to 90% SOH real ... but since the BMU firmware is a bit conservative, it is possibly considering as SOH around 70 to 80% SOH .. maybe even less. .. this will cause a relative short EV range ... also notice that using AC and as well car heating, has a sensible impact on EV range.

elm70,
Thank you for responding. I went to Mitsu dealer. I did an interval service and MUT3 check up on the car...BTW the guy from Mitsu said that there is no way to verify the actual millage of the car. Is this true?
I've attached snapshot file of the battery info module from MUT3.
Friday they called me for a software update. If you say the warranty is valid after the DBCAM, then I will wait till after the update.
I already oredered Icar Pro BT 3.0. Tomorrow will be delivered. I will keep you posted.
As for AC...it is influencing the guessometer, but no so much... power consumption on a compressor like this should be 7-800W, so in 20 min should draw max 500Wh from batt capacity or lets say max 5% of total usable capacity, when running continuous ...but 24km(yes, no it is 24 for the last 4 charges ) is way too low. I will do a full charge ride without AC, just to see.

https://wetransfer.com/downloads/0ae78a351fe4503a216850bf68194cb320190903131916/454f3a033aec784e916119c2fa099c5420190903131916/1220b3

AC can consume 1kw
Heating even 4kw

1kw constant consumption at 50km/h (in city will be even slower), it means 2kwh more every 100km ... and since this PHEV in the city can do 18kwh/100km ... it is over 10% extra consumption

In my PHEV when I have 40km ev range and I click on AC ... I get around 30km ev range on the dash.

About the report from your Mitsu Dealer ... I think you got a nice dealer there ... I know that in the past these type of reports were not shared with customers , as well, it is good from them to offer you the firmware update

Per what I can read, you did arrive with almost empty battery .. right ?
So ... if I read right your SOH is 23,6Ah or 62,1% SOH ... and you did arrived with 6.8Ah or 28.8% SOC

So on paper, in some countries, you are entitle to have a battery replacement ... but, I do exclude that after DBCAM you battery SOH might jump just above 70%, or even near 80% ... and this might prevent to get a new battery

PS: Per my math you have only 5.2kwh energy usable in EV mode, which would implies at best ~29km EV range

The dealer... what can I say. The shop itself is combined with Hyundai and Mercedes. It is a bit unorganized and full all the time (I've owned Toyota and VW so far and they are far better in terms of customer care and quality of labor as for my first impression) . Mechanics are used to service all brands. The electrician (MUT guy) did not knew to much about the car but he was kind enough to give the file, which for I am grateful.
I was so close to buy a new one from the same dealer and I gave it up when I found this one on 1/3rd of price. The one that I ordered is now in the showroom and is indeed a nice one, quite different from MY2014 and I still consider buying it, but I want to see what level of customer satisfaction I get with this one first... anyway... I am going Friday for update, will see.
As for your calculations, you are wright, first time it was 29km. Maybe if I put AC off now it will go back to 29.
OBD adapter is arriving today. I will post a prtscrn of the app.
Cheers!
BTW... what kinds of files are allowed to att on this forum? I've tried PDF, CSV, WORD...

Yes the Outlander with latest facelift it is looking better

Latest Outlander has a 13kwh battery and an EV and Sport mode buttons which are nice improvement

As well, latest Outlander has 2.4L ICE vs 2.0L ..

Still ... full price for me it is too much ... I took my PHEV 2nd hand for save some money ... but if I would add a depreciation from buying a new PHEV, it will not make any economical sense for me
And if I would buy an "expensive" car, for the pleasure of a "good car/good driving" .. I would not get any Mitsubishi

I think cheap 2nd hand PHEV make lot of economical sense .. and thanks to the BMU reset technique ... it will allow also for old PHEV to enjoy a decent range in EV mode

The car is also a "status" symbol ... so a new car might look relevant ... in my case with the money saved on the PHEV, I got 2 additional "weekend" cars for when I feel the need to enjoy a drive without thinking of fuel economy ... one is an old timer which I hope it might be even a sort of "investment" ... for both these cars I expect zero loss in depreciation (my old BMW cabrio in 4y of ownership has lost almost no value)

Yeah, it is quite expensive for what it gives. I am thinking in the same direction as well... I want to buy a 88 Merc W124, just for fun. I will sell the Passat and Laguna and probably buy the Merc.
Does anybody know how the check if the ODO meter value has been altered? Mitsu dealer cannot verify... Or they don't know how.

Gheorghe said:

Yeah, it is quite expensive for what it gives. I am thinking in the same direction as well... I want to buy a 88 Merc W124, just for fun. I will sell the Passat and Laguna and probably buy the Merc.
Does anybody know how the check if the ODO meter value has been altered? Mitsu dealer cannot verify... Or they don't know how.

Click to expand...

Can you get the service history of the car ?

Mine was having 120.000km when I got it, and the service book included was consistent with car mileage.

I would assume that reset/change the ODO is quite complicated .. and it is even a crime in many countries.

EDIT: From a battery report from PHEVwatchdog, you know how many days the battery is old, and how much charge and usage was the battery .. this give some idea if the km is consistent with the BMU numbers

If the car is from the Netherlands and you know the original registration, you can check the mileage here:

https://www.napcheck.com/hoe-werkt-de-rdw-kilometerstand-registratie/

And find the registration by the VIN number here:

https://www.rdw-online.nl/chassisnummer-controleren/

jaapv said:

And find the registration by the VIN number here:

https://www.rdw-online.nl/chassisnummer-controleren/

Click to expand...

Does not work for me .. at least not for free.

If I put the old (3y expired) NL car plate on the site: https://www.kentekencheck.nl/ .. nothing is founded.

jaapv said:

If the car is from the Netherlands and you know the original registration, you can check the mileage here:

https://www.napcheck.com/hoe-werkt-de-rdw-kilometerstand-registratie/

Click to expand...

Same for this link : it does redirect me to: www.autoverleden.nl

Asking 9.99 for get an history .. similar to many other VIN history web site (actually 9.99 is relative cheap, I did paid more years ago when I was checking some car before considering a purchasing , an old Ferrari 348 and Ferrari 456 ... both relative cheap at time, but with an horror story behind .. so ... no Ferrari at the end )