Pure Electric Vehicle Mod - Hack. Stop ICE (engine) kick-in (heating acceleration & cold).

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kpetrov

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 29, 2020
Messages
446
Disclaimer for those unable/unwilling to take responsibility for the consequences of their actions: I do not recommend you modify your PHEV in anyway.
(This mod will reduce the power of the vehicle mentioned in specifications to electric only. Sudden outburst of engine power won’t be available. If ICE power is required the vehicle should be stopped, turned off and on again with Modification disabled.)

This mod is for all who want to have an vehicle like it is advertised and an full Electric mode can be chosen regardless of Mitsubishi desires to make the vehicle foolproof and universal for every single user while reducing the warranty claims regarding ICE cold starts. Like everyone can guess Mission Impossible.

Like most of us already know different regions and vehicle models have different programing and they behave differently. This Mod is for all that can’t prevent ICE startups in even mild cold weather (under 5 Celsius / 40F) by meaning of preheat, special startup sequence, not using the HVAC system and etc.
Nobody needs an warmed up engine prepared for sudden need of power and acceleration on their short commutes in residential areas. Total waste of gas, engine resource and wear.

Mod specs:
Pros: Full electric vehicle, no ICE.
Cons: Few errors on the dash (check engine as well), no guess-o-meter, battery level bar works as it should though. (see pics below)
Errors on the LED display will disappear after restart with the Mod deactivated. Check engine light (errors) can be cleared with an OBD-II scanner.

HOW TO:
The Mod is disabling the main engine relay A-X19 by installing a switch or remote switch on relay circuit that controls it.
For all that want to try without the hustle of installing switch they can simply pull out the relay.


Schematics of the mod (one RF switch and one normal rocker switch for a bypass)
Only RF or rocker switch can be used as well. The RF switch need an power.
What you have to do is basically install an switch on the relay pin (small one) that is facing the front of the vehicle. All other pins should be connected directly to their corresponding socket slots. Power can be drawn from the opposite small pin of the relay facing the back of the vehicle. Couldn't find an suitable ground in the fuse box so left an thin wire pinched by the fuse box cover connected to the closest ground.
The RF switch when off consumes 5mA when on 40mA.
I have connected the RF switch on normally closed contact.


Errors on the dash:


Some videos of the dash:
2018 Outlander PHEV kill Engine Mod-hack (Dashboard errors & screen tabs)
2018 Outlander PHEV kill Engine Mod-hack (Dashboard errors & screen tabs) part 2

What you will need beside basic wiring:
One 80 Amp relay socket (optional you can do it with terminals only)
Two Two 9.5mm Crimp Terminal Male Spade Connector
Two 6.5mm Crimp Terminal Male Spade Connector. (Same but smaller)
One 433Mhz Universal Wireless RF Remote Control Switch 12V 1CH
One Rocker Switch (optional)

Final result fitting under the fuse box:
 
I realise you have put a lot of time and effort into your modification, however, how to do you go on with your manufactures warranty and your modified vehicle insurance, now that you have drawing attention on a public forum highlighting the modifications you have made to your vehicle.
 
oscarmax said:
I realise you have put a lot of time and effort into your modification, however, how to do you go on with your manufactures warranty and your modified vehicle insurance, now that you have drawing attention on a public forum highlighting the modifications you have made to your vehicle.
My vehicle!? Who said that the vehicle is mine?
The relay was malfunctioning again. How all those people experiencing problems with frozen relay are still alive, don't really know.

BTW my battery degradation trend is much slower now. ;)
 
kpetrov said:
oscarmax said:
I realise you have put a lot of time and effort into your modification, however, how to do you go on with your manufactures warranty and your modified vehicle insurance, now that you have drawing attention on a public forum highlighting the modifications you have made to your vehicle.
My vehicle!? Who said that the vehicle is mine?
The relay was malfunctioning again. How all those people experiencing problems with frozen relay are still alive, don't really know.

BTW my battery degradation trend is much slower now. ;)

Fair enough you have not carried out the modification to your PHEV, surely in my limited experience on a 2018 vehicle the relay are covered under the manufactures warranty, if the relays are malfunctioning again surely there is an underlying faulty, so how did you manage to slow down the battery degradation ?
 
If ICE power is required the vehicle should be stopped, turned off and on again with Modification disabled.)/quote]


While I usually like mods I would not recommend this to anybody for above reason.
Are you sure the vehicle has to be turned off to enable the relay again?

BTW this vehicle is not advertised as an EV, it is a PHEV.
50km range(if you are lucky) is just not enough to call this an EV even if some like me chose this vehicle because their daily drive is less than 50km and 'misuse' it as an EV.

Also on a daily commute it is more likely (and has happened to me) that some moron ran a red light while I am on the crossing and I could avoid a bad t-boning by flooring it.
 
MadTechNutter said:
If ICE power is required the vehicle should be stopped, turned off and on again with Modification disabled.)


While I usually like mods I would not recommend this to anybody for above reason.
Are you sure the vehicle has to be turned off to enable the relay again?

BTW this vehicle is not advertised as an EV, it is a PHEV.
50km range(if you are lucky) is just not enough to call this an EV even if some like me chose this vehicle because their daily drive is less than 50km and 'misuse' it as an EV.

Also on a daily commute it is more likely (and has happened to me) that some moron ran a red light while I am on the crossing and I could avoid a bad t-boning by flooring it.
I have tried to wake up the ICE for few minutes by setting the heating to max, pressing CHARGE and so on without success. Maybe the system needs some time to realize that the relay is back on, but never tried on long enough journey.

Regarding your second remark, the vehicle is advertised as Plug-in not regular hybrid and should not act as gas powered vehicle for short 3-5km trips and full battery.
I don't have a desire to call it EV. The vehicle architecture is practically an EV one with an gas powered range extender. ;)

EV Drive Mode

In the EV Drive Mode, the Outlander PHEV is driven in a very eco-friendly performance mode by the two electric motors, with energy being supplied exclusively by the lithium-ion drive battery pack (100 percent electric-powered, zero-tailpipe-emission Outlander PHEV). This mode is excellent for running errands and performing daily family duties as a highly sustainable/low environmental impact form of personal transportation.


Counting to avoid an T-boning with an acceleration... especially with so slow and heavy vehicle, no comment.
Actually what is the difference in acceleration with ICE kicking in and pure electric one?
I bet that with that difference the chances of you avoiding an t-boning are no better than to be hit by an lightning or meteor.

Basically you don't recommend anyone driving cars not capable of doing 0to100 in less than 6sec. or?
 
In the 1920's - long before the widespread introduction of traffic lights and stop lines at junctions - World Land Speed Record holder Sir Henry Seagrave apparently advocated driving through crossroads at maximum speed to limit the time spent in danger of being hit by another idiot doing the same thing! :roll: ,
 
Thanks for this. Probably i will just pull the relay when needed, rather than going to the extent of wiring in a switch.
 
jcolvin said:
Thanks for this. Probably i will just pull the relay when needed, rather than going to the extent of wiring in a switch.

👍 Go with that. I was doing it while waiting for parts delivery.
Now I'm skipping the part of opening the hood in a harsh winter conditions. :cool:
 
Kpetrov,
There is a small audible relay click that comes from the fuse box in the passenger cabin just forward and to the left of the drivers knee whenever the ICE starts or stops. I have been unable to locate this relay. I am curious as to whether or not you have attempted to mod or remove this relay. I wonder if there would be less downsides in terms of idiot alarms, lights and loss of range calculators.
 
Never heard that click you are talking about.
I have checked on diagrams, the following relays are located at the cabin fuse box:
Blower relay, Heated seat relay, Heated steering wheel relay.
BTW ETACS-ECU is there as well.
 
jaapv said:
Why not just remove the ICE? All it takes is a spanner and a winch...
Because I need it twice a week and it takes me just a press of a button. Capiche?

If you want to remove yours, I don't mind, take a spanner and a winch. It's not my business.
 
Yeah it’s really hard for some people on this forum to understand that some of us like to do shit on the weekends that requires a longer drive than our short daily commutes.
Annually I commute around 4000 miles a year this is well with in the range of the EV traction battery. But we put 10000 miles on the car a year. occasionally we need that gas, that is until we get a real EV.
 
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