Power Bank 14kw

Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV Forum

Help Support Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Mickmccroad

Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2017
Messages
17
Hello everyone

I will present my project which is almost finished

My vehicle: outlander phev of 2014. original electric range given for 50kms.
12kwh battery but we can not empty below 30% [20% if we block the start of the engine] to always have a reserve for 2 electric motors that ensures the 4-wheel drive and the total power accumulate between the thermal if necessary and the electric. So a useful capacity of 8.4kwh of origin with a SOH at 100%
Today with 100,000 km, I turn about 85% of SOH is a real useful capacity of 7kwh and autonomy of 40kms

My use of this vehicle which is a mixture of professional and private very often consists of a journey of 10 20 or 30 kms with a variable downtime and then again 10 20 or 30 kms, etc ....
In 16A the cooldown is 3h with a 100% SOH. today it is more than 2h30 2:40.

The goal is to be able to recharge at each stop the battery as I had a catch everywhere or I stop.

Purchase:
2 lithium ion batteries in 48v 150ah each is 7kwh. 13S of prismatic cell. Integrated BMS. Permissible output amperage continuously 150A but recommended 100A.
Each one is loaded in 15A so in 10H if completely emptied.
1 inverter 48v 230v 6000w continuous. 16mm2 power cables for each battery

The principle. the batteries powers the converter that supplied from 230V to CRO 16A [real 14.5A] that I integrated into the car
This CRO has been plugged into the charging socket harness. everything passes via 2 relays. the first is the little yellow and blue which cuts the connection of the 2 communication wires and a relay of power in 32A not visible on the photos which cuts the phase and neutral of the catch. all this controlled by a wireless remote control like garage or gate remote control. We run with an amperage of 85A total or 42.5A per battery.

In use: if everything is cut, you can connect the charging cable as usual and nothing changes. If you press the button on the remote control, both relays close. the vehicle is completely disconnected and so if you plug a plug, it happens absolutely nothing. and the load rotates from the integrated CRO and drawing from the batteries

In use with its useful 14kwh, counting the loss of the converter and the built-in charger of the car, one arrives at a yield of 80% measured.
in real life so I can injected 11.2kwh into the main battery.
So I can spend twice 20% to 100%. In real life to avoid the deep discharge of the 2 batteries, I limit myself more than 2 times from 30% to 100% or 9.8kwh extract of 2 batteries which corresponds to 87% of use. I pass if the downtime leaves the charger 40kms autonomy to 100kms.

To know the level of charge, a simple small screen that displays either the voltage or the capacity in%, calculated according to the voltage. not very accurate but that's enough for me. in the photo we see by the text but it works well.

I also add to the left another converter that I already had 12V and so it is connected to the 12V battery of origin. This one allows me to go out 3000W but for the converter 300V / 12V of the car and the low capacity of the battery of origin I limit myself to 1500W.

The left electrical panel corresponds to the 12V converter. from left to right, differential circuit breaker, then 16A circuit breaker, dual inverter for phase and neutral that can power the 2 chargers from the external outlet or from the 12V converter [option not used in normal times because of loss of efficiency. but can be useful if used in troubleshooting to power the house in case of a long power outage, while prohibiting the return of current on the male plug meme in case of mishandling, then the last 2 circuit breakers each correspond to a charger. which allows me according to the charging time at my disposal to turn on 1 or 2.

Then the 2nd table corresponds to the 48V converter, with first the differential circuit breaker then the circuit breaker 16A CRO and a circuit breaker 16A for 2 taken.

I have also installed small temperature probes and an amp for the original subwoofer because I have more original station nor am amp. the original post for many outlander user PHEV is the default of the vehicle ...

I still have to install on the roof my 2 solar panels of 100W each. the MPPT converter is already in place and plugged in and I have already done loads with but laying the sensors on the roof just for testing

Cooling question: I still have 2 fans to install but not yet received to limit the heat in summer. those if will be gainer with evacuation of the air under the car the summer and in the car the winter. the purpose in winter is to take advantage of this thermal energy to increase the temperature in the car at a standstill and in summer to evacuate the heat outside under the car and therefore not to bring less warm air out and therefore to limit the temperature in the car park in full sun.
top
 
Photos
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7639.jpg
    IMG_7639.jpg
    104.6 KB · Views: 363
  • IMG_7640.jpg
    IMG_7640.jpg
    112 KB · Views: 363
  • IMG_7641.jpg
    93.6 KB · Views: 363
photos
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7643.jpg
    IMG_7643.jpg
    100 KB · Views: 363
  • IMG_7645bis.png
    228.7 KB · Views: 363
  • IMG_7646.jpg
    IMG_7646.jpg
    167.8 KB · Views: 363
I'm no expert, but the setup certainly looks impressive. Interested to hear how you get on.
 
Seems a shame to completely lose the car's load capacity just to squeeze out some extra battery miles...
 
It will also be interesting to see if the extra weight reduces the distance per kilowatt hour...

In the manual somewhere Mitsubishi advise that stuff shouldn't be left in the car unless needed, because extra weight reduces range.

I'm working on the assumption that it was significant enough to make them put in a smaller fuel tank, where there's clearly space for the regular sized one.
 
the weight 65kg all inclusive
the lost place does not bother me and if ever everything is disassembled quickly.
I can do between 90 and 110kms follow my driving.
what is great is to be able to preheat the vehicle without taking in the traction battery
 
Amazing stuff, I'm so happy that moddding is picking up for this car! Thank you for the efforts, would you mind doing a more detailed write up so we can perhaps reproduce one day?
 
Wonder if its possible to build a liquid cooling setup for those batteries. Maybe use off the shelf PC parts? I think it would be worth investigating especially during the summer/higher temp months and to preserve battery capacity/condition.
 
Mickmccroad said:
No opinion? Positive or negative

Super job.

So .. actually you are carrying around 220v power line via battery and inverter in the trunk.

So, for get the extra range you need to stop the car, click a button on the remote and plug the charging cable, from your new socket and the J1772 .. right ?

Why you did not go for a more simple solution ?

I would have used a DC-DC step up, and feed directly the main battery via the pre-heating connector plug on the boot .. or put in parallel a 80S battery to the one on the car boot.

Anyhow ... very nice to see people thinking and modifying the battery and range of our PHEV
 
Essentially it’s like having 2 people in the car all the time, including the driver, so that shouldn’t be too bad economy wise...

An impressive solution, but I’m just wondering why Mitsubishi didn’t do it?
 
Hello everyone

I'm sorry I did not answer earlier but I was pretty busy

in terms of cost, all inclusive with batteries, converter, wiring, switchboard with breakers, solar panels (currently being assembled): 4000 €


A liquid cooling would be perfect yes but a lot of work in addition with piping, radiators with fan, pump, expansion tank, exchanger at the batteries. Thinking


to charge, no need to plug the plug or other, everything is done automatically via inverter relays. just press the stop button that's all.


as for the extra weight, I find that very reasonable.
 
Ventilation completed.

2 120mm and 48v fans are installed behind the grids with thermostat control
A 2nd pilot thermostat via an inverter relay ignition of the engine venilation of the car to extract hot air outside (as if we put the ignition and switched on the ventilation, but without the need to do it or put the contact)
The 12 volts is manufactured from the 48v via a converter 48v 12v
A 3rd fans 48v 60mm has been installed in the trunk to extract the heat generated by the converter when it is in charge to power the original fan and ventilate in general.

Everything is controlled from the central armrest.
Button on off converter that manufactures the 220 volts
On-off button for rear ventilation
Bonton on off for front ventilation

The solar panels are being installed. Once all finished I will put you the pictures
The wires are already in place from the roof rails.
 
Looking forward for the pictures with solar panels ;)

Will be interesting to know how many kwh of energy you can get from solar in a good sunny day ...

Economical wise, I can't see how to justify a 4000 euro investment ... but ... the cool effect is priceless :cool:
 
Today I have already done 7000kms with the kit
Last weekend laying solar panels
 

Attachments

  • 3783D09E-9A74-467E-B390-EFA2F3DC2DAE.jpeg
    3783D09E-9A74-467E-B390-EFA2F3DC2DAE.jpeg
    117.8 KB · Views: 37
Back
Top