You can of course coast in any 'B' setting, so setting to B0 simply removes the option of using the regen to slow the car down if you wish without fiddling with the paddles. I set it to B5 on startup and then use the throttle pedal to allow me to coast if I wish or or to slow depending on the traffic conditions. No chance of coasting for long distances round here most of the time. BTW coasting does use some power to energise the motors, but it is small compared to normal power demands.
I'm not clear why the OP puts it into SAVE mode when he starts it. If it is warm, that will have no effect as the ICE will not start, just like normal. If it is cold, it will also have no effect, as the ICE would start anyway. As mentioned, try pre-heating in cold weather if you have the electric heater, as they could make the whole journey purely in EV.
Using SAVE on hills may be worse for consumption if the car runs in Series mode below 40mph. In that mode, the ICE runs the generator which then charges the battery and powers the electric motors. It's generally better to allow the car to charge in Parallel mode above 40mph, when the ICE is powering the front wheels directly and sending any excess power to the battery via the generator. The corollary is that it's better to use EV if possible when the car would run in Series mode.
Leaving the car in 'D' or SAVE will cause the ICE to run for a short time, and then it will run in EV for a short time. For peak efficiency, it's better to run the ICE for longer periods in CHRG so that it is thoroughly warm, followed by longer periods in EV. Obviously you need to tailor your usage depending on the terrain. Experiments have shown that this is fractionally more efficient on long runs. But try not to arrive at your next charge with any battery remaining.
2015 GX4hs since 03/18
2015 Renault Zoe R240 owner since 11/17
You may have speed, but I have momentum...