Lindqvist method : DIY BMU Battery Reset

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B5 recommended setting ???

By default is B2

Personally a peak charge of 40kw in a 12kwh battery .. it sounds trouble to me

PS: Again about over charging ... please ... charging process has nothing to do with SOH .. overcharging is IMPOSSIBLE
 
I saw a written statement from Mitsubishi Switzerland in another forum, they suggest B5.

As said, I only drive B5 (except long distance on motorways). My battery is in a pretty good shape and I can go between 55 and 63km.

PS: if it is not possible, thats good. Thanks.
 
B5 and 100% charged are not good friends.
I only noticed today that I almost rear ended the car in front when I discovered how firm I had to press on the brakes without regen.
I rarely charge to 100%, and yes I only have the car for 3 weeks now.

I actually only want B0 and B5 and I wish I could switch between the two in one go. Holding done the right paddle for 2 seconds and then still press twice doesn't cut the mustard and the shifter doesn't do it right either, so I am wearing out these paddles.
 
If charged, no regen :cool:
Then you will be remembered, how "old fashioned" breaks are working :lol:

A kind of speed shift from 0 to 5 an back would be really nice.
 
After reading a lot of suppositions from this forum, I decided to run a DBCAM with the dog running. Here are the numbers:

- DBCAM discharge is at 7.9kW (heater + A/C compressor running full blast!)
- discharge is down to 2.875V on the lowest cell! So it really does a complete discharge.
- cell voltage imbalance at such a low SOC is high (0.308V!!!) while the cells where within 4mV at 29% SOC...

I'll try to add screenshots of the dog!
 

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Mitch said:
As said, I only drive B5 (except long distance on motorways).

Other way round with me - I found this week after doing a lot (for me) of motorway driving that leaving it in B5 under cruise control enabled a more rapid drop in speed when cancelling the CC than B0. Giving a fright to the tail-gaters. :lol:

NB. Mine's a GX3h with no ACC, so I manage CC by use of the up down button on the steering wheel and give my left leg a rest :lol:
 
@fprigge: thanks for proofing my statements:

1. DBCAM can discharge faster (setting Heating and Cooling at once)
2. DBCAM can discharge the battery till it is really empty
 
MadTechNutter said:
B5 and 100% charged are not good friends.
I only noticed today that I almost rear ended the car in front when I discovered how firm I had to press on the brakes without regen.
I rarely charge to 100%, and yes I only have the car for 3 weeks now.

I actually only want B0 and B5 and I wish I could switch between the two in one go. Holding done the right paddle for 2 seconds and then still press twice doesn't cut the mustard and the shifter doesn't do it right either, so I am wearing out these paddles.
Actually the B settings are mostly meant for going down hills, and hills do vary in steepness. So the in-between settings are quite useful.
 
MadTechNutter said:
B5 and 100% charged are not good friends.
I only noticed today that I almost rear ended the car in front when I discovered how firm I had to press on the brakes without regen.
I rarely charge to 100%, and yes I only have the car for 3 weeks now.

I actually only want B0 and B5 and I wish I could switch between the two in one go. Holding done the right paddle for 2 seconds and then still press twice doesn't cut the mustard and the shifter doesn't do it right either, so I am wearing out these paddles.

From B0 to B5 isn’t too bad, pull back on the stick twice, you do have to wait maybe half a second between each pull though.
 
fprigge said:
After reading a lot of suppositions from this forum, I decided to run a DBCAM with the dog running. Here are the numbers:

- DBCAM discharge is at 7.9kW (heater + A/C compressor running full blast!)
- discharge is down to 2.875V on the lowest cell! So it really does a complete discharge.
- cell voltage imbalance at such a low SOC is high (0.308V!!!) while the cells where within 4mV at 29% SOC...

I'll try to add screenshots of the dog!

Very good info

Thanks ;)
 
Mitch said:
No, Mitsubishi suggest B5 in Stop-and-go.
I get much more KM with B5, tested, in the city.
Mitch, how do you know so much about MMC operations and functions of this vehicle?

Secondly, my car has lost 8km range over the past 3 weeks. Which is absurd and unreasonable to be honest.
Its down to 40km range when fully charged from the slow Euro-plug charger, Chademo got me 33km last time I checked.
Ill check what capacity I have left later on today.

So, I have a car to test on if anyone would like to test something.
 
Pomst said:
Mitch said:
No, Mitsubishi suggest B5 in Stop-and-go.
I get much more KM with B5, tested, in the city.
Mitch, how do you know so much about MMC operations and functions of this vehicle?

I can't tell, otherwise I have to k... you :lol: :mrgreen:

Honest, a lot of informations can be found on the web.
Most reasonable infos are coming form the Russian community.

Rest is learning by doing, testing on my own car.

Reading, learning, testing :cool:
 
Pomst said:
Mitch said:
No, Mitsubishi suggest B5 in Stop-and-go.
I get much more KM with B5, tested, in the city.
Mitch, how do you know so much about MMC operations and functions of this vehicle?

Secondly, my car has lost 8km range over the past 3 weeks. Which is absurd and unreasonable to be honest.
Its down to 40km range when fully charged from the slow Euro-plug charger, Chademo got me 33km last time I checked.
Ill check what capacity I have left later on today.

So, I have a car to test on if anyone would like to test something.

EV range is not a valuable reference.

Just make a very slow trip .. on the next day the EV range will go up
Make a very fast trip ... the next day EV range will do down

+/- 10km in EV range is total normal

Only real reference .. is SOH from WatchDog Apps ...

Alternatively .. which I'm not 100% sure .. is EV range after disconnect the 12v ... this reset the memory of the last trip, which was giving me 52km EV range with an old battery .. and now 59km EV range after reset with almost 100% SOH

Anyhow ... only reference is reading data via OBD2 ...

SOH get update normally every month .. most of time with 0.1Ah lost .. but .. time to time you can expect 0.5Ah lost ... before reset my BMU ... I had 2 0.5Ah lost in less then 2 weeks ... this is quite brutal on EV range.

Now .. after Lindqvist... I'm experiencing my car like it is new :ugeek: ... 10+ km of EV range does really make a difference .. also no need to all time top up for be on the safe side before starting a trip
 
EV Range is the ONLY, which is important and from interest!

But not the EV range in the display, I'm talking about the real KM I can drive.
 
Mitch said:
EV Range is the ONLY, which is important and from interest!

But not the EV range in the display, I'm talking about the real KM I can drive.

How much you can really drive depends by too many parameters

So, real EV range is not a reference for me.
 
It is and should be for everyone.
If you drive the car, like it is supposed to, then you drive it in EV.
Therefore only the range is from interest.

It's the same like for an BEV. I don't care about SOH, I want to go as far as possible.
 
I think ... we think very differently .. but maybe we want to say similar things ...

Yes ... drive a PHEV in a proper way, it means most of the time to maximize the EV usage , or drive in pure EV if possible

Yes .. this require to limit the power to only 60Kw , so no hard acceleration which would implies to start the ICE

Still .. driving in EV mode, there is a big difference in EV range possible ... with my PHEV driving slow (for example never using more then 15kw power) I can do more then 50km in EV mode before the ICE will kick in ... driving "faster" .. using AC or Heating .. it will make the ICE to kick in after 30km of EV mode.

The driving style/speed will also impact on the next EV range on the dash too.

So ... how much we drive in EV, or how much the dash estimate the EV range ... is not a reference for me

Only real reference for the EV possible range, is the SOH with SOC
 
Thanks for the other method on page 1.

But you didn't say if your car has had regular services from Mitsubishi, and presumably updates that other cars may not have had?

Michael
 
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