Lindqvist method : DIY BMU Battery Reset

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michael8554 said:
Thanks for the other method on page 1.

But you didn't say if your car has had regular services from Mitsubishi, and presumably updates that other cars may not have had?

Michael

Yes, considering that at each service, the garage normally make all the possible firmware update , it is possibly relevant.

My car had the last service 10 months ago.

Still this bug in the firmware which cause a BMU reset, I believe has not connected to a firmware update.

I also doubt that more recent Mitsubishi firmware could have correct this issue

It is possible that they might fix this, now that this method is "known" ... but maybe even not .. at the end people can still make a reset using a 20$ cable and 60$ driver from russia
 
Thanks.

Maybe you had success because yours has had updates.

Easily settled if other non updated users give feedback.

I'd be grateful if you gave links to a known to work adapter and software.

Michael
 
michael8554 said:
Thanks.

Maybe you had success because yours has had updates.

Easily settled if other non updated users give feedback.

I'd be grateful if you gave links to a known to work adapter and software.

Michael

Based on the feedback from people which manage to reset the BMU with a "tricky procedure" (now there are multiple variations) .. I doubt that this has to do with a firmware update while the car was serviced ...

Anyhow ... the most "appropriate" way to reset the BMU , via cable and software can be find here : http://www.myoutlanderphev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=4533
 
Is a BMU reset more likely to benefit an ex company car that has rarely been charged or one with a battery that is frequently charged from the mains?
 
littlescrote said:
Is a BMU reset more likely to benefit an ex company car that has rarely been charged or one with a battery that is frequently charged from the mains?

The question is: does the battery degrade (SoH display) faster on an ex company car that has rarely been charged or one with a battery that is frequently charged from the mains?

The situation that caused the faster 'degradation' should benefit more if there really is a benefit, which is not proven over a longer term.

I am the opinion that the displayed SoH does not reflect the true capacity of the battery as it seems to be a calculated and not measured value.
 
Many thanks for the link to the adapter etc.
I'll give the short method some more tries but can see me doing it the software way.
Michael
 
Finally reset the BMU today!
I tried every variation of the Lindqvist method that has been posted but couldn't get it to work.
I just tried the "D-Method" and it worked.
I have a 2018 North American model.
Was still tricky getting the timing to work when connecting the 12v. Had to try three times. But the clicking solenoids seem to work slower when the 12v is down at 8v.
Dog says 40 Ah, 105.3% now. :D
 
The link to the Nikolay Fedeev drivers in "Triple Procedure & Setup" page 1 goes to a PayPal page requesting roubles, no details of what you're buying!

Page 5 has a Fedeev testimonial and some links, one of which is to passthrudriver.

Three choices, one at 3000 roubles is about 55USD, "pass-thru with security keys", is this what is needed?

Michael
 
I changed the currency to USD, entered 60, and wrote what I needed in the "message to recipient" area. Nikolay then replied couple hours later to the email address associated with my Paypal account.
 
Thanks for that insight.

I'm guessing that there's a page previous to that giving details of the item and prices, do you have a link to that please?

Michael
 
Thanks, but that's the same link as before to PayPal.

Surely there's some preamble to this where he describes what he's selling?

Thanks

Michael
 
Guys this thread is about Lindqvist and it's variants.

I just noticed some comments on this new YT video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EwtD_q2rUE

Which I already tried before I saw/read it.

There are consistent comments about ruining your 12V battery by depleting it down to 7V.
While it might not destroy the battery it can reduce it's cycle life and it is understandable that somebody might want to avoid that, including myself.

There is mention about using resistors, which was one of my first methods when I tried a couple of days ago.
I used 1Ω 100W(I have that stuff lying around) and the relays would not even click.
I tried two halogen globes 50W parallel (as a series resistor) and there was some weird behaviour, would glow a fair bit than go dark again and could not initiate charge, one or two relays would only click.
So resistors won't work. I assume the voltage drops are too dynamic for the charge logic.

I tried a small flight LiPo 3s 1000mAh that was only 30% charged and connected it to the jumpstart terminals, 12V battery removed of course.
That would start the charge fine.
Even tried timing it so that the charger click is just shortly AFTER I removed the the small battery, no reset, but charge would commence at least 20 times before the LiPo was so flat that not all the relays would go on
Surely I must have gone through the sweet spot when this D-method is supposed to do it's thing, but I might have missed the chance of getting it right at that moment.

After viewing just now the video I understand that the battery is left running while different functions in the car are shut down while in Auxiliary mode.
That I didn't do but it doesn't make sense because the battery is disconnected again. I has just been drained low, nothing else.
I doubt Mitsubishi would be so sloppy that a low 12V battery would delete vital settings in the ECU/BMU simply while it is being drained.
So it seems that the actual SoC of the 12V must be the key factor, while the charge is starting up.

Anyhow rather than draining your good 12V battery to critical levels, maybe find an old 12V car battery somebody might have lying around and connect it to the jumpstart terminals start auxiliary and drain that. Chances are it is already so low to Lindqvist with it.

What I am going to do tomorrow is set up a Lab Power Supply to the jumpstart terminals and try to find the exact voltage where the charge relays barely switch on and go from there.
I know already that the charge startup process does not use more than 5A because I used an in-wire fuse with that rating when I connected the LiPo.
This was very important to protect the LiPo when the charger switches on but I always lifted the connector very quickly after the charger went on and the fuse didn't blow.
I have a Lab supply that goes to 5A and it can handle external voltage on it's output.

Will update with a result tomorrow.
 
Another thing:
To my knowledge no Australian has succeeded with any of these Lindqvist variants.

If any Australian who succeeded could you please come forward.
I have no FaceBook.
 
Lindqvist is already stupid, but the "D-Method" is bullshit.
If you want to rune your AUX Bat. please go on.

Why people post this on YT and here??!
Who is paying, if something is broken??

If you want to recalibrated BMU the ONLY way is MUT!!
 
Mitch said:
Lindqvist is already stupid, but the "D-Method" is bullshit.
If you want to rune your AUX Bat. please go on.

Why people post this on YT and here??!
Who is paying, if something is broken??

If you want to recalibrated BMU the ONLY way is MUT!!


Hence the reason why I suggested to at least use an old 12V car battery instead of the good auxiliary battery.
If Mitsubishi designed a car that breaks simply because a 12V battery runs low then they are the ones who would be stupid.

And how is the MUT method any safer?

You are suggesting that people can directly mess around with the system software using some special code that a 'nice person' wrote(in my world a hack) and only works with a certain MUT version. So you think that is safe?

Well what ever 'magical reset', it is always: Do at your own risk!
 
MadTechNutter said:
Guys this thread is about Lindqvist and it's variants.

What I am going to do tomorrow is set up a Lab Power Supply to the jumpstart terminals and try to find the exact voltage where the charge relays barely switch on and go from there.
I know already that the charge startup process does not use more than 5A because I used an in-wire fuse with that rating when I connected the LiPo.
This was very important to protect the LiPo when the charger switches on but I always lifted the connector very quickly after the charger went on and the fuse didn't blow.
I have a Lab supply that goes to 5A and it can handle external voltage on it's output.

Will update with a result tomorrow.


Turns out it needs a bit more than 5A. Those fuses don't blow exactly at the rated current, they need to survive that rated current. Typically a 5A fuse burns out at 7A or higher.
My Lab supply stayed at 6.5V at 5A but not all relays switched on, so charge could not be initiated.
Voltage and associated current needs to be higher, maybe be only a tad higher but my supply limits precisely at 5.1A
 
MUT is not a special code that a 'nice person' wrote. This is the official SW from Mitsubishi!

And, the car is not "breaking" simply because a 12V battery runs low.
 
Mitch said:
MUT is not a special code that a 'nice person' wrote. This is the official SW from Mitsubishi!

And, the car is not "breaking" simply because a 12V battery runs low.

Yes .. but ... if the 12v is dead .. the PHEV will not start at all ...

I would not gamble on over discharge the 12v battery ...

I would not even use a 3S Lipo (I see the DC/DC charger push 14.7v ... this will fry a 3S Lipo relative quickly)

But yes an old and broken 12V lead acid battery could be used for try the D method .. luckily .. for me the "short" ,method did work .. for 1y I'm fine now
 
Mitch said:
MUT is not a special code that a 'nice person' wrote. This is the official SW from Mitsubishi!

English might not be your mother tongue so you might have miss understood what I wrote:

MadTechNutter said:
You are suggesting that people can directly mess around with the system software using some special code that a 'nice person' wrote(in my world a hack)and only works with a certain MUT version. So you think that is safe?

I did not say that a nice person wrote MUT.
Fur us humble PHEV owners to use it for 'battery improvements' 'special drivers' are required:
http://www.myoutlanderphev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=4533
 
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