Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV Forum

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 Post subject: D-Method on really stubborn cars or the A-Method :)
PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 7:56 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 05, 2019 7:35 pm
Posts: 118
Location: Aussie Land
I have been trying these battery disconnect methods for weeks trying to get more than 29Ah out of my stubborn Australian PHEV.

BAZINGA ! Today I finally got it !!!

It is a modification of the D-Method with precise instruction how to get it right.
As this is the first time I am aware that it has now worked on an Australian PHEV I would like to celebrate by naming it the A-Method :)

First off I strongly suggest NOT to deep discharge the Auxiliary 12V as described in the D-Method !

1 - Find an old 12V car battery
SWMBO does not allow me to keep old car batteries (like I used to) so I went off to the local tip and found an old car battery that is not totally sulphated. You need a voltmeter, any little $10 job will do, which I consider an essential tool for any house hold and vehicle owner, especially a (PH)EV.
Find a battery that still shows at least 11.5V. I grabbed one that still had 12.2V.

2 - Discharge the old car battery to 8.5V
I used two 50W halogen down lights wired parallel to discharge it down to about 8.5V, measured while the load(lights) where connected.
Two old car head lights will also do. Just for the sake of copying my exact procedure use anything that has a load of abut 100W to discharge the battery, but not the car itself to get this 8.5V under load.
When you now disconnect the battery's voltage will go up again , mine went above 10.5V.

3 - Disconnect the AUX battery and plug in charger

4 - Connect your discharged old car battery with jumper leads to the positive jumpstart terminal in the large fuse box located in the front and negative to a nearby metallic surface and hold until your charger actually switches on.
This step is not that straight forward as it sounds and requires sub categories:

4a - make sure the jumper leads have a very good contact to the old battery. I pressed the clamps on the connector side firmly together and twisted them back and forth around the battery poles several times, so they scrape away any oxidation. Even if the poles look fairly clean you should do this.

4b - Connect as last the positive jumpstart clamp to the + pole in the fuse box and wait for your charger to switch on (of course you can leave the positive always connected and hold the negative against a solid metallic surface), just don't disconnect the jumper leads from the old battery.
Most likely either the voltage is too high and your charger goes on normally or it is to low and charge does not commence but if you followed my 8.5V discharge procedure you should be very close to the critical sweet spot.
It is very important to listen to the relay clicks, which sound like four first then a pause and then the last one which sounds to me like two at the same time.
If it sounds like that don't even bother looking at the watch dog.
You need to find the battery condition that delays the last relay click(s).

4c - If all relays click normally switch off the charger from the mains and wait at least 10 seconds, you should hear a thump like all the relays switch off at once.
Keep trying 4b, you are now further depleting the battery every time to get to that perfect sweet spot.
... and then it suddenly happens:
The relays go an slower, first four still fairly normally but the last one or two take a much longer time, so do not disconnect the jumper lead until the charger has switched on. In my case this seemed be over 10 seconds and then it barely seemed to click, charger light went on and after that quickly lifted the jumpstart clamp

5 - Somewhat excited about this new reaction of the relays and the charger still went on, I opened the watch dog and waited, oh no still 29Ah and stared a while at it thinking what else should I do.
Then a minute later, like magic, the 29Ah jumped to 40Ah right in front of my eyes.

So this really is a magic reset :D
However couple of charging hours later it dropped to 38Ah.


...well it was not quite like I wrote above because actually the second case under 4b happened to me:
The battery was discharged too much at first and the relays did not go on at all so it could not start the charge.
In reality I had discharged it down to 8.2V while the 100W load was connected.

4d - So I connected the 12V Auxiliary and started the normal charge with the old car battery connected to the jumpstart terminals.
Using the volt meter I measured on the jumps start terminals 14.1V but on the battery poles it showed 13.2V
That is how I discovered how important it is to twist the clamps on the old battery to get the best contact and it went up to 13.6V.
I disconnected the jumpstart lead on the positive jumpstart connector in the fuse box only, shut down charge and disconnected AUX battery and repeated 4c a couple of times until the delayed relay switching happened and the charger still went on.
If you missed the sweet spot just give it a couple of minutes with a 12V Auxiliary activated charge again.

This is probably the most complicated looking method on the net but if other methods didn't work for you:
DO AT YOUR OWN RISK !!

Never drive to 0km EV range, always leave a safe margin and test in a SAFE AREA with no traffic how it behaves when the drive battery gets near empty and check the Dog cell voltages !!!

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 Post subject: Re: D-Method on really stubborn cars or the A-Method :)
PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 10:10 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2016 11:18 pm
Posts: 1152
Location: Poland
Super :ugeek:

Let us know how behave your PHEV .. it was 29Ah before reset ... so check that it does not get over discharged when used "hard" in EV mode.

I'm also checking the SOC changes while at rest, for get an idea of real SOH .. I'm losing over 2Ah if I make multiple trips in EV mode without charge and with some rest time over 2h


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 Post subject: Re: D-Method on really stubborn cars or the A-Method :)
PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 11:07 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 05, 2019 7:35 pm
Posts: 118
Location: Aussie Land
elm70 wrote:
Super :ugeek:

Let us know how behave your PHEV .. it was 29Ah before reset ... so check that it does not get over discharged when used "hard" in EV mode.

I'm also checking the SOC changes while at rest, for get an idea of real SOH .. I'm losing over 2Ah if I make multiple trips in EV mode without charge and with some rest time over 2h


Thanks :D

Yes I immediately started recording the results and they are now in :ugeek:
Yes the first image is from the ugly past:


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 Post subject: Re: D-Method on really stubborn cars or the A-Method :)
PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 11:15 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 05, 2019 7:35 pm
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Location: Aussie Land
After charging a while I saw this, what I would consider a realistic capacity for a near 5 year old battery:


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 Post subject: Re: D-Method on really stubborn cars or the A-Method :)
PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 11:21 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 05, 2019 7:35 pm
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Location: Aussie Land
Now look closely at the recorded time top right, it is a whole hour later but SoC has hardly changed.
This looks like a trickle charge to me and it is not over charging over the 4.1V:


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Last edited by MadTechNutter on Wed Aug 14, 2019 12:46 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: D-Method on really stubborn cars or the A-Method :)
PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 11:26 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 05, 2019 7:35 pm
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Location: Aussie Land
This is my DIY slow charger in action that normally charges at 5.3A:


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 Post subject: Re: D-Method on really stubborn cars or the A-Method :)
PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 11:29 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 05, 2019 7:35 pm
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Location: Aussie Land
Lets have a look under the hood (of my meter box) so we can measure how many Amps it is actually charging with:


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 Post subject: Re: D-Method on really stubborn cars or the A-Method :)
PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 11:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2016 11:18 pm
Posts: 1152
Location: Poland
Over-Charge is never an issue

Over-Discharge is what is your risk now.

I see that immediately after charge you get SOC of 35Ah (in my case it is different, I get even more then 100% or more then 38Ah)
So .. I would not assume this is always the case ... sometime the charging process is paused and SOC updated ... so end SOC is variable ...

If you will leave the car charged without using for over 2h .. the SOC will be bounce to around 100% or almost 38Ah ... and from this SOC you have the risk to over-discharge the battery when using EV

Anyhow .. keep an eye on battery voltage via the DOG when using your car for a long EV trip ... if it goes too much down (below 3.5v without load, or after a slow down) .. I would suggest to click on charge button.


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 Post subject: Re: D-Method on really stubborn cars or the A-Method :)
PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 11:40 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2016 11:18 pm
Posts: 1152
Location: Poland
MadTechNutter wrote:
Lets have a look under the hood (of my meter box) so we can measure how many Amps it is actually charging with:


So .. 1h trickle - charging ... that's strange ... never notice on my PHEV .. I have a monitor on power level from the 220v .. so I should be able to spot it in case.

Trickle charge Lithium battery is not a good thing ... maybe you should use the stock 10A charger, not a 6A charger ...


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 Post subject: Re: D-Method on really stubborn cars or the A-Method :)
PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 11:45 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 05, 2019 7:35 pm
Posts: 118
Location: Aussie Land
A miserly 1.18A trickle charge !

This is factual evidence that after this reset method, for me at least, that the battery does not get overcharged.
Keep in mind that I am using a slow charger that I have designed to match the output of my solar panels.
It is likely that the charge process would have terminated around the 95% mark but I had to go to town.
In the past it has terminated before once at 97% when it was doing this trickle charge which is likely a conditioning/balancing process.

So I got in the car started up and a whopping 55km EV range showed on the meter.
I drove my 16 km somewhat hilly round trip and came back with 36km left.
Before I would be lucky to have 22km left.

I noticed in the up hill legs that the guesso-meter does not drop so much as before and when I am coasting B0 down, it gained again.
Before it would only gain when I used regen.

I am not charging tonight so I can see how it performs tomorrow when it gets near empty.

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