P10DC / Engine Not Starting, EV Fine

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Rusty

New member
Joined
Nov 4, 2022
Messages
3
Hi Gang, I'm new here so Hello!

I'll get right to it. 2015 3H, UK car. I bought it with a failed engine (timing chain), 160,000 miles.

I removed the ICE / Power unit as one, swapped out the dead engine for a 2015 51K mile unit. The 'new' engine came complete with all sensors, injectors, coils, throttle body etc. It looked like new (literally) the oil was like new as was the filter and it came with the flywheel and 'clutch' (torque limiter?). I suspect it's actually only run for a few 000 miles.

Initially, all was perfect: engine started when commanded (heating / charge), ran beautifully, proper sewing machine and all was well. I reckon I've used the car for a total of 100 miles, 15-20 of which used the engine, no more.

Currently the car drives perfectly on EV, no errors on the dash, but it produces the error code P10DC as the ignition goes on (not that you'd know as a driver). 15-20 seconds after you press charge / save / heating on (or accelerate over the ICE tipping point) the dreaded EV Service Required message comes up. No other messages. It carries on driving just fine, no speed restrictions (but warning remains and no engine obvs). Stop and restart clears the dash but the P10DC code comes back up.

There are no other codes or warnings.: no engine codes, EV or PHEV type codes, nothing. Just the P10DC as ignition goes on. Clears fine then returns when ignition next turned on.

It does crank (sounds as though it was running, and indeed sometimes the exhaust is just off of cold), but injectors at 0% so I'm guessing it's crank-only, albeit at engine speed.

Here's what's been tried:

Main dealer scan, no additional codes. Software has been done a while ago, but they didn't re-flash. I'm aware of Richi Jenning's thread on this. His had additional codes, whereas mine just has the one.

Dealer remembered Richi's car and solution but seemed happy with the previous update and suggested cause could be old fuel, so I drained this and refilled: no joy, no change.

Other things done:

1)I wasn't happy with the engine / inverter earths (corrosion) so every earth in the engine bay was cleaned, engine and inverter ones duplicated.
2) Live data shows crank angle sensor working, but 0% on injection.
3) 12V battery: put voltmeter on and monitored during start-up: never drops below 12.3, 12.4v, sits at 12.7 with ignition off, 14 + once the DC to DC kicks in. It's in the clear.
4) Trans oil was changed, initially to a generic SPIII with Mit Approval, and again to Mannol 8209 (which is a match to the genuine oil). Level checked after use.
5) Scan with good quality machine suggests no coding of throttle body, injectors or coils needed but open to ideas on this.
Adaptive learning on the engine has been tried (after the problem arose, so can't be the cause).
6) I've ruled out tyres etc as it drives fine in EV mode.

On Rich Jenning's P10DC journey I'm pretty sure symptoms only appeared when the weather cooled off post-summer. I have to admit, I could 'sort of' make this fit. I first put the car on the road during the heatwave, and the issue surfaced a few weeks later when it had cooled. Today's mission is to collect my workshop space heater, pop it in the garage with the PHEV and let the place sit at 30-40dC for the day and then try it. Long shot I know.

I really, really want to sort this on a DIY basis as I have a powerful diagnostic machine here (e.g. shows 180 live data points just for the PHEV section), and having done the engine change, just on principle I'd like to see this through!

Any thoughts or ideas?

Many thanks for reading: sorry for the ramble :roll: Barry
 
Hi Rusty
Great project, well done. I personally do not know anything about your issue other than a Google search that brought up a similar issue from 2018 on this forum.
https://www.myoutlanderphev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=46808#p46808
Apparently something about two different flash upgrades required to clear the fault.
Good luck
 
Thank you, yes that's the one I referred to. I will ask them to re-flash both ECU's but my symptoms are subtly different. It is the same garage I'm using and they're all long term Mitsubishi, plus are one of three Mitsubishi EV service centres for the whole South East, so I should be in good hands assuming I don't crack it in next few days.

Over the weekend I heat-soaked the garage at 30dC for most of one day, and tried a start then as Richie thought perhaps his issues started as the weather cooled off. I got inlet temp to 29dC and coolant to 19, which was definitely more than when it last ran O.K. No change sadly :cry:
 
Hi
Do you have any other fault codes? Any rattle knocking noise when starting the engine? If yes looks timing chain is gone just do a compression test if 0 the valves are gone, I see this before.
 
Hi Rusty, have you had any luck with your fault. I noticed a website from a topic on BMU Reset that referred to https://carhoodsecrects.com/ reagarding a reset. There is a fair bit of info about P10DC fault. It may help.
 
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