Flattened auxiliary battery - any consequences?

Don't.
The lock is integrated in the electronics, as it functions as an emergency bypass of the electronic locking system. If you want it changed you will have to have it done by Mitsubishi - at a hefty price. But - if there is a mismatch between the original key supplied and the door lock, that is a guarantee matter.
If the keys are not original, just order the original one with Mitsubishi. The specifications are in their record of the car.
In general, this is not a car that is suited to inexpert tinkering by non-authorized persons.

I have had the key checked and it is the original key but it doesnt turn the lock. I have seen a working lock and key on a famous website thought I might try and swap it out so was looking for some guidance into how to remove it complete. I mentioned warranty to mitsubishi and they were rather non commital.

That is not really acceptable. If the car is under warranty they should repair non-working parts.

I have a flat auxiliary battery and possibly a low battery on an Outlander 2020 GT PHEV imported from Canada.
The front of the vehicle is damaged (the engine seems intact), but the radiator is probably damaged.

Any ideas on how to:

1. Switch the car to neutral?
2. Start the car?

I guess I also have to replace the flat battery with a new one.

Last but not least, how can I prevent the engine from going on when jump-starting the vehicle?

I'm having trouble making sense of this post.

Can you give me more information about what you're trying to achieve?

Step one is to put power into the 12V battery. The easiest way to achieve that is via connection points under the bonnet.
(Consult the manual)

Step 2 is to put power into the traction battery. (After the 12V battery has been charged)
Connect the car to the power via the included charging brick.

Once both batteries are charged, it should be possible to put the car into 'Ready' mode and select 'N' via the gear shift, without the engine starting.

There are methods for forcing the engine to start (easiest is press the charge button and there is also a function in the hidden menus) however, I think you are hoping to prevent the engine from starting.

Unfortunately, I don't know how to stop the engine from starting if it really wants to.

Probably the best way would be to find a wire that can be disconnected (main lead from the coil perhaps?) but this may prevent the car from working at all.

If your car is currently stuck at the docks or on a ship, the first step is to bring it home on a lift truck of some kind.

The car must not be towed with wheels in contact with the ground.

nrayanov said:

The front of the vehicle is damaged (the engine seems intact), but the radiator is probably damaged

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There are 3 radiators in the front, one for cooling the petrol engine, one for cooling the gearbox and front electric motor,(oil cooling system), and one for cooling the electric converters and the rear electric motor.
They all have to be functional before starting anything.

I was able to give power to the auxiliary battery via another vehicle through the front fuse box.
The car went into ready and displayed roughly 60-70% remaining on the main battery, which the guessometer referred to as 27 KMs remaining.

I was able to release the parking brake, switch to N, and then switch to D on the vehicle directly to electric mode without the gas engine starting (there isn't much fuel anyway).

Parked the vehicle only in EV mode. Now just waiting for the body and paint shop.

Thank you everyone for the help.

Cautionary tale re Aux battery Flattening - Don't hit Start button

I have just had similar experience to Solargen (above) during England's hard freeze last week. Hadn't used my 2014 PHEV for a couple of weeks but main battery was nearly fully charged. In dying afternoon light and about minus 1C, I tried to access the vehicle but the key fob wouldn't operate the doors properly and the mirrors didn't swing out. Got in using metal key and without understanding problem pressed Start button. Blue light and displays came on but system also switched sidelights and road rumble noise on. I then realised had a problem as I couldn't switch the system or the lights back off again. Presume that battery voltage with lights on too low for relays to operate. Eventually read in manual about the jump connector in fusebox. Can't easily get to aux battery cos covered by plastic in boot and can't open tailgate anyway, Checked voltage across jump points - about 8V. Applied charger across them but wouldn't lift voltage much above 8V and still can't shut down. Get a spare battery and connect across. Now have sufficient voltage to shut system down. "PHEW". Left spare battery and charger connected overnight outdoors in minus 4C - battery up to about 12.3V by morning.
Battery now holding at about 12V or just below but will need replacing (9years). Haven't driven car since as "EV system service required" sign comes up on starting.

Does anyone know what consequencies of running with "EV system service req" sign might be? Will it eventually go into a limp mode? Can I remove it without going to a Mitsubishi dealer?
thanks , john

wormwood said:

Cautionary tale re Aux battery Flattening - Don't hit Start button

I have just had similar experience to Solargen (above) during England's hard freeze last week. Hadn't used my 2014 PHEV for a couple of weeks but main battery was nearly fully charged. In dying afternoon light and about minus 1C, I tried to access the vehicle but the key fob wouldn't operate the doors properly and the mirrors didn't swing out. Got in using metal key and without understanding problem pressed Start button. Blue light and displays came on but system also switched sidelights and road rumble noise on. I then realised had a problem as I couldn't switch the system or the lights back off again. Presume that battery voltage with lights on too low for relays to operate. Eventually read in manual about the jump connector in fusebox. Can't easily get to aux battery cos covered by plastic in boot and can't open tailgate anyway, Checked voltage across jump points - about 8V. Applied charger across them but wouldn't lift voltage much above 8V and still can't shut down. Get a spare battery and connect across. Now have sufficient voltage to shut system down. "PHEW". Left spare battery and charger connected overnight outdoors in minus 4C - battery up to about 12.3V by morning.
Battery now holding at about 12V or just below but will need replacing (9years). Haven't driven car since as "EV system service required" sign comes up on starting.

Does anyone know what consequencies of running with "EV system service req" sign might be? Will it eventually go into a limp mode? Can I remove it without going to a Mitsubishi dealer?
thanks , john

Click to expand...

As advised in another post, disconnect your Aux battery for 5 minutes to remove all warnings. No consequences except reset of guessometer.

littlescrote said:

No consequences except reset of guessometer.

Click to expand...

That is not entirely true. It will delete the ECU logs too. Please correct me if my understanding it wrong.

nrayanov said:

littlescrote said:

No consequences except reset of guessometer.

Click to expand...

That is not entirely true. It will delete the ECU logs too. Please correct me if my understanding it wrong.

Click to expand...

It might, but what use are those logs if they're full of crap related to a bat flattery?

littlescrote said:

nrayanov said:

littlescrote said:

No consequences except reset of guessometer.

Click to expand...

That is not entirely true. It will delete the ECU logs too. Please correct me if my understanding it wrong.

Click to expand...

It might, but what use are those logs if they're full of crap related to a bat flattery?

Click to expand...

I'm just pointing out it's not entirely true. If you plan to go with the car to a dealer to investigate an issue and you wipe the logs, it will be a pointless trip to the dealer.

Thanks for advice both, will wait until after Xmas. Haven't found a supplier with correct AGM battery yet, so will limp along until I get one. Sounds like no point in connecting parallel 12V battery whilst replacing, so that hopefully warning will be removed. I didn't intend taking to Mitsubishi, so perhaps no worries as to stored codes. Not sure about radio - in past have had to put parallel 12V on system when changing battery on previous cars.
john

Update
Charged 12V aux battery and took a couple of short trips including running petrol engine. EV sys service warning disappeared during first trip and hasn't reappeared so doesn't appear to need battery disconnection to remove. 12V battery now looks to be holding charge so might not need replacing. Maybe these things just go down when not used but kept outside in really cold weather. Thanks for help,

I had the problem of multiple alarm messages, managed to get going eventually probably due to things warming up. Went to the dealer and they tested the 12v battery and said it was only holding 70% charge. They said that they could recondition the battery so I left the car with them. It took them 2 days to sort out using two different methods. No more problems touchwood.

Interesting to see how long this post has endured, clearly an evergreen problem, So I thought I'd add my experience.

The first I knew of a flat battery was when my neighbour - nearer to my charging spot - called to say my windscreen wipers were doing some strange little Tango. When I went to investigate, they were moving VERY slowly over windows. But they were not turned on - and I couldn't turn them off or stop them. Maybe that's actually a preprogrammed visual sign of a flat battery, I kept pushing held down the on/off switch and they eventually stopped their dance.

It was the day after I'd got the car and I think I left some things on while playing with it.

Fortunately, the car was unlocked but still couldn't raise the tailgate - had to do the boot release thing, with a screwdriver slide over the little white lug under the removable cover on the inside of the tailgate - centre near floor level.

Removed the floor section in the boot, 5 screws, the battery showed only about 6 volts. Later discovered you can get the same reading from the + post in the fuse box, under the bonnet.

AA came the next day, put the little Jump Booster on the + terminal in the fuse box, and - to the body. and started all good. Took it for a drive, all fine. Haven't had any problems since - will be getting a small Jump starter to keep in the wagon now. I did already have a larger one - with a compressor - but to be honest, I was scared to try jumping starting it - too many electrics for my liking. Would do it next time though.

I now know that the auxiliary battery gets charged when plugged into the main charger, but apparently won't charge it if it was flat when put on charge.

Hello All - System Errors and Faults are kept in an EPROM permanent memory chips, they can only be cleared though the OBD port. There's no much to lose regarding the 12 volt battery other than user settings.

Regards - Mike