Recent content by elm70

As said ... I think ... 12V has gone flat. You left the car in "stand by" mode, since it was plugged in (when plug in it can't go in ready mode) In this condition all 12v system is up and potentially consuming a lot of amps, if you have some defrost or heated seat .. but since it was in stand...

Using some cheap chinese OBD2 adapters (which did not work with the DOG apps), I remember I got the tailgate to open automatically .. so yes ... it is possible that a "poor" OBD2 adapter could cause some "noise" and error behavior in the PHEV

Getting close to 36Ah ... so ... soon I will try again the "short" method again (from post #1) Last card from the Dog: 218 Days Total charge : 1344 Ah Total usage : 3128 Ah Battery SOH 36.1Ah

BMU reset has been detected by accident doing normal operations in the car BMU reset is all about disconnecting and reconnecting the 12v battery, or sometime to have a low 12v battery Having a low 12v battery can't invalid the warranty Same for connect and disconnect the 12v battery can't...

There are multiple threads here about BMU reset ... one I did started and I put all my "knowledge" on the first post Yes ... BMU reset can be tricky to reproduce ... the highest success apparently has been achieved with Diode for fake a low voltage from the 12V battery

The procedure in theory can happen on normal usage, so I don't think this impact the warranty .. but it might open a discussion In my case I'm not sure I have any warranty on my PHEV since it has been imported from NL ... plus ... I hear it is a long discussion before convince Mitsubishi for...

88% sounds quite normal .. still for only 36k miles an 3y old, it is very possible that the real SOH of the battery is a bit better .. possibly real SOH is around 94% The BMU has a strange logic which cause to estimate SOH in a pessimistic way. For example when the battery is consider new the...

The teaser doesn't kill only due to the protection in few milliAmps that can release ... so in practice it send a sequence of impulse of electricity Already 120v DC can kill, since once a person get stuck in, it can't unstuck anymore, since a person can't control himself anymore Using AC vs DC...

240v is lethal .. but since it is AC, the body has a fraction of time to gain control and disconnect from the electric source A 240v DC will not give any survive If the car cause shocks ... better use isolated gloves for operate the charging, and as well .. better don't use Chademo .. 300v DC...

Since I reset my PHEV my phone crashed multiple times and I lost lot of WatchDog data Anyhow ... my last card from my battery is 171 Days (start from 60 days after reset) Total charge : 880Ah Total usage 2104 Ah Battery SOH 36.5Ah So ... possibly soon will be time for a new reset Last...

It might be that the main battery has lost capacity (it might be real lost, or "virtual" due to the known limitation of the BMU firmware) The best way is to get a proper OBD2 adapter, and use the WatchDog application for get an indication of the battery condition.

My PHEV in defrost it can warm up around 6C every 10min If temperature is -15C, it is needed around 30min for have he front glass window defrosted For -15C and -20C ... I would suggest to use the maximum possible timer which is 30min ... remember to be on charger, else it will consume 2kwh...

Pre-defrosting is the better option .. pre-heating warm up the car, but in my case it can leave the front window with "water condensation"

I did google it a bit more Yes there are rechargeable variant of this Aluminum Air battery ... but then it does not look any better then LiIon battery The 1300wh/kg is applicable only for the non rechargeable, that is the model proposed in the article 2.6 more then LiIon is useless 11x...

http://sustainableskies.org/the-17x-aluminum-air-battery/ :ugeek: Can we replace only the aluminum and not the entire battery ? Still .. is missing some maths or there is some wrong maths here