Recent content by PaulFromDe

Unfortunately you have to remove the bottom-panel: Fuses are at the red part. Good luck! Paul

I tried this, but it did not work. I installed a switch in the fuel tank sensor wire with three positions (in my 2016 Outlander PHEV): real sensor tank almost full tank very empty I just did this, because I expected the car to do a little bit more EV-mode when the fuel tank seems to be empty...

Skruffel, on your pictures I only see the fuse-box at the left knee. In my (LHD 2016) car, the AVAS-box is behind this fuse box, a little more right. Not at the left knee, but near the toes of your left foot. You can only see the silver box, when you put your head on the carpet and look up. I...

Ok, i found the answer myself, in Mitsubishi's Canadian specifications: 120V x 8 A means 960 W So it is possible to charge the Outlander with less than 1.3 kW (minimum at 230 V) when using lower voltage. Probably even 6 A at 110 V will be possible, what means 660 W. Yes, the charging time will...

I'm charging the Outlander here at home with energy from my own photovoltaic solar energy plant. I try to control the charging station automatically, so the charging current is not more than the produced amount. In the winter often it is not possible to produce 1.3 kW - the minimum of the...

It was me, who took this photo. You find it here: http://myoutlanderphev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2777&start=20 I'm still interested in expanding the Outlander battery. But after some tests with an electric heater I know: If you let current flow in the wrong moment, the controller of the...

Sorry, I had to work some days... Another issue not mentioned yet is the weight. But the Outlander is not so weak, and if you think about th 75 kg permissible load at the towbar, without a trailer the Outlander could also carry a 75 kg battery... For me, the amount of added range must be 50%...

I agree to that! The maximum power taken from the regular battery (at full throttle) is 60 kW, which means 200 A at 300 V. The fuse at the heater port - when not changed - limits the current to 40 A = 12 kW, 20% of the maximum load. Even when using a bigger or low impedance extension battery: I...

First to anyone who sees this information, I forgot to mention: THIS IS DANGEROUS. THERE ARE 300V DC. ONLY OPEN THIS COVER IF YOU ARE REALLY KNOWING WHAT YOU ARE DOING There is not only the charger and the heater connected, but also the rear motor. From this box there goes a connection...

I would simply disconect the battery pack, if the temperature rises to much. And: the added battery pack has to deliver only a part of the current, could be limited by the new BMS. So maybe even in summer it will not really need cooling. I think this is here at the rear motor...

A replacement battery would be an interesting product - in 8 years, when warranty ends. :idea: Actually I'm very interested in an extension battery: :idea: There is a huge amount of unused space under the trunk cover. If you look under the car, you see the silencer at one side - and the other...

Hi, I'm thinking about fitting a PTC-Heater (used in the Diesel-Outlander) in my PHEV without electric heater. You can see it here: https://www.drive2.ru/l/9772226/ But this needs a maximum current of 80 A. So it would be nice to know, how much current could be delivered from the drive...