Exactly here 240V is L1 and L2 and 120 is L1 and Neutral you have L1 and Neutral for your 220V so you dont have any modification needed.
my option is to repair it and sell it and get a level charger or replace the pcb inside this one with a cheap duosida pcb for 60$.
Ok i did some more testing.
It wont blow up on l1 l2 but will not pass the self test i guess it need a ground and a neutral to be able do the cgfi test.
So i can find a way for the cgfi to work.
Now i think its too much work i will see if i order an open evse board and use it inside this casing.
Because im cheap and want to have a little faster home charge!
It have a charge current selector 8A/12A on mine and in the video.
Talk about cheap the perso that gave it to me melted the connector on this one and the new one is not sealed and damaged from water all this in 2-3 months.
I like...
I opened mine here are some picture and a link to a video showing europe model.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRuC1NCQuvE
Link to my picture.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxRDOI17LiWVM3hTcjJRU0RpRDhzQjJnUkhsbjd6Q21GRTg0/view?usp=sharing
There is 4 terminal on the input and the two...
I got one for free it have a melte connector on the main side. I opened it and it look like the one i saw in a video that is macde for europe. So i guess it will work will all let you know. if it fail it still get a freee j1772 cable and the contactor, the main fuse is good for 250V also.
Hello, i want to see how the 1500w inverter is wired and controlled on the Outlander PHEV GT 2018 in canada. Any one have acces tomthpse workshop manual?
Thank you.