Recent content by richi

The thing is, the community in that group prefers not to wade through a cesspit of abuse, swearing and scams (not that I'm suggesting you've been guilty of any of that). It's a decision made several years ago—before my time. I simply reflect the community's preferences. I'm aware that this...

A member of the big UK Facebook group has been experimenting with exactly this. You can't swap the entire pack, but you can swap all 80 cells from the new to the old packs. You need to retain the old modules and their electronics (CMUs), because the new ones aren't compatible with the old BMU...

Rodent damage?

A common problem that can cause this is one of the rear motor mounts (sometimes called "diff mounts" by Mitsubishi techs). It's the frontmost of the three that normally dies, by splitting its rubber insert. The official replacement part has been redesigned. Or pattern parts are available.

Fully agree that the recommended 35 psi is too low. Of course, any choice of pressure is a compromise and will vary by tyre and conditions, so you must choose your own. My choice is around 38–40.

I know we've talked about this “elsewhere” but for the benefit of other who might see similar: It’s common for the short cable to become damaged internally, which can cause intermittent connections or shorting. In this case, it sounds like a short that either trips the MCB (circuit breaker...

Well, it depends what you mean by "leak". No aircon system has perfect seals. Keeping sufficient pressure in, say, a 4-year-old car with 90,000 miles on it is challenging.

Looks to me like a combination of under-inflation* and bad alignment. Get a 4-wheel alignment from someone who knows what they're doing (i.e., not this idiot). *—not necessarily less than the recommended figure in the door jamb, but under-inflated for your driving style. Add 10% and see how you...

The oil spec is MA68EV (i.e., non-conductive POE, rather than the usual conductive PAG oil). Refrigerant is the usual R134a. MY2019 has the newer R-1234yf refrigerant in some countries, but not in Europe.

It's likely you'd have guessed wrong, but if I said why it might give the game away ;) There's a bunch more information about the issue on the Facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/342911965900842/permalink/921835038008529/

Update: The underlying issue was that a dealer had screwed up the spark-plug/ECU recall. The recall requires that the tech do TWO separate reflashes: the engine ECU and the PHEV ECU. This tech appears to have only done the engine ECU (or perhaps the PHEV ECU reflash failed). So the car ended up...

No difference after 30-minute pre-heat: It stalled after 25 seconds. Tomorrow's test: After charging 12V aux battery.

This morning's test was to use the 10-second-CHRG button trick to start the engine: It stalled just the same, after 25 seconds. So we've eliminated the heater as cause. Here's the interesting thing: After it stalled, I tried again and it stalled again after 25 seconds. I've never seen it do it...

Hello gang. Here's the saga of my "stalling" PHEV. Posting here in the hope that someone has a smart suggestion. Here's the briefest summary I can muster: From a stone-cold start, when the ECU first calls for the engine to turn, it runs for 25 seconds then stops, displaying EV System Service...

Hard to say whether all older Outlanders encounter the problem. It might depend on how much road salt they see. But let's think about where to squirt the lube. Also, WD40 isn't a good choice for this job, as it can attract dirt. A while ago, I drafted some text for the PHEV UK Facebook group...