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My understanding is that the car has two 'transfer cases' (one front, one rear) which split power from each electric motor to the pair of wheels powered by that motor. Sounds like the people maintaining your car don't know what they are doing. Especially if they called it a CVT.

Sounds like the 12V battery has died. Is it the original? I replaced mine after five years.

Check for charging timers set up (via the main screen, or the app, whichever you have/use). When I plug in my car, it makes a couple of clicks and clunks, and then waits for the charging timer to say: "Go".

So they want to replace the entire e-drive because of a leak in the hydraulic clutch?

Does it open and close if you slide it forward and back?

OK... I guess you're after more details? I have a Blackview set of dashcams. (Front and rear.) They are connected to a Blackview lithium ion battery, that is installed under the passenger seat. (About the size of a cigar box.) That battery is connected to the vehicle power, via a fuse that...

Re dash cams... A good installer should have warned you about that risk. Mine did, and recommended that I run the camera off a separate (supplied) lithium ion battery, when the car is powered down. That battery only charges when the car is 'on' so I'm not running down the car's 12V.

Sorry mate, I just handed to the dealer and said: "Fix this please."

Yes. Fuel thickens as it ages, and runs the risk of 'gumming up' various parts of the fuel system. Similarly, there may be seals that rely on the fuel going past to maintain flexibility and effectiveness. Mitsubishi engineers are trying to protect us from these issues. Adding fresh fuel...

Well, our cars are 10 years apart, so I wouldn't expect things to be identical. Please note that my charger does not have Mitsubushi branding on it anywhere. Can anyone else with a 2024 comment about their charger please?

Yes, but you need to use up enough fuel to make room for the new. Don't try siphoning fuel out, others have tried that and ended up damaging their vehicle.

You should tell members what year your PHEV was made. (Sticker on the inside of the passenger side door pillar, i.e. open the door and look for stickers in the area that's usually covered by the door, when it is closed.) It doesn't match the charger that was supplied with my 2014 PHEV. The...

On mine, when the picture of the car appears, if it is alerting me to something being open, that should be closed. (Usually one of the doors has not closed completely) If it is appearing at the same time as the 'charge' symbol, maybe it means that the charging door is open? Either that or...

For people with this kind of problem, I always recommend Honda Rodent Tape. It's treated with capsacin, the hot ingredient from chillies, and rodents really don't like it. Once you've repaired any damaged cables, wrap them in that stuff and they won't be back. :)

Other members have described the process using the supplied 'granny charger'. (AKA the level one charger.) After the battery reaches 80% the charging process slows down, and there are low current draw periods where the car's on-board software is leveling the charge across the cells.) This is...

I meant your driving. Nicely done.

Pre-heating is typically done by setting up a timer, either via MMCS in the car, or by using the app on an external device. These things are not available for every model. Pre-heating is a bit of a mixed blessing. You can use some power to warm up the car before you use it, but that power...

Very smooth and excellent response. Well done you. :)

Most likely you've run into the 'Engine started to maintain fuel system' setup. The car expects you to put about 20 litres through the engine every six months (maybe every 3 months in the USA). If you only run the car on battery, the system will force you to use petrol, until you've added...

That button bypasses any 'timers' set up in the car. It allows the car to be charged, even though it is during a non-charging period set up in the timer section of the MMCS.