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Well alternately, Mitsubishi could use an induction motor for one of the two axles like Tesla does. Tesla vehicles do not have a disconnect clutch, but use the internal permanent magnet synchronous reluctance motor most of the time, and the induction motor only when necessary. The IPMSynRM is...

Exactly. At the beginning of the test, the batteries were "fully depleted", i.e. they were at the level at which the car will fire the ICE to keep moving in Normal mode. However, I had Save mode enabled. I reset the trip meter to zero as soon as the refuel warning came up. At some point, the...

I mean that if your speed is below 78 mph, Save mode will keep the system in series mode even during times that if it was in Normal mode, it would be running in Parallel mode and dumping extra power into the batteries. Save mode reduces the amount of hysteresis that occurs -- even if it's...

I think you missed the part where I said I have "little doubt" that this is the case. Save mode does cycle the battery, but haven't you noticed how the hysteresis cycle is much smaller in Save mode than it is in Normal mode, when you have a depleted battery and it's down to 1 bar? Save mode...

Not a typo. After it drains the battery and decides to use the ICE again, it will run another 30-40 miles behaving fairly normally, with the exception that you cannot enter Charge or Save modes and the display in the instrument panel will be constantly telling you to refuel it. I remember I got...

I've done this several times: - When there are about 30-35 miles of gasoline range left, the "refuel" warning comes on. The gasoline pump symbol starts flashing slowly. There is 1 bar remaining at this stage. - At about 25 miles of gasoline range, the gasoline pump symbol starts flashing...

I have little doubt that putting extra power into the battery improves the overall trip fuel efficiency. Since the car lacks a traditional gearbox and the RPM/wheel speed ratio is fixed, it cannot vary RPM while keeping power constant. If you are driving on flat terrain and do not require...

Huh? I understand that any charging that occurs at this speed will be somewhat slow. But the issue is that it's actually charging the battery when it's in Save mode -- it shouldn't be doing that at all. Furthermore, its behavior in Save mode is identical to the behavior in Charge mode. And the...

I was going down the freeway at a continuous speed of about 85-95 mph (136-153 km/h) yesterday for about an hour, and I noticed some VERY strange behavior from my vehicle. ABOVE 78 mph/125 km/h, the behavior is as follows: Normal mode: Vehicle uses clutch to connect engine directly to wheels...

Well, no. The charger you're using, and more importantly, the voltage you're using, matters a lot. The charger that comes with the car (Level 1, 110-120V) takes around 8 hours @ 12A and 12 hours @ 8A. I have never seen a Level 1 charger that can deliver 16A, because NEMA 5-15 sockets are...

https://www.tflcar.com/2020/06/ev-battery-degradation-news/ Not surprisingly, the worst degradation happens in PHEVs and not BEVs, due to the much lower battery capacity of the PHEV, much higher cycling, much higher average depth-of-discharge, and insufficient energy to maintain the temperature...

Which model year?

When was the last time you refueled the vehicle? And when did the ICE start up automatically the first time?

Mitsubishi's design really sucks. It will top off the batteries to 4.10V/cell when you're charging, unless you interrupt it manually. Once the batteries are at 4.10V/cell, the regenerative braking doesn't work, and it causes unnecessary wear to the friction brakes. They really need to introduce...

The difference isn't that much. The OBC should be at least 80% efficient, and is likely 85-90% efficient. If we take the lower end of that range, that puts you only up to 1.8 mi/kWh, which still seems rather low. Short trips shouldn't really make a difference in the efficiency of a vehicle...

Not surprising. Wouldn't be the first time I've seen the manual not match what's actually in the product (most likely because the product was updated but the manual was not). That seems a bit low. 30L of gasoline, or about 8 US gallons, should have taken you about 200 miles. That leaves 453...

The engine started after you filled the tank?!? If that is true, what was the initial fuel level and final fuel level when you did this?

1) What is B&Q? 2) What?!? You mean you pulled the fuse which was supposed to reset the timer to zero and that actually seems to have caused the engine to start?!? :shock:

Did the engine start as soon as you switched on the car, or did you have to start driving somewhere first? Also, how long had it been since you last refueled the car (number of days)?

96 days and counting now...I wonder if there's some other trigger for putting the computer into the mode where it forces the ICE on, such as: - Charge started - Charge stopped - Charge complete i.e. maybe the computer doesn't actually evaluate the elapsed time whenever you put it into READY...