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And like that guys by accident you discovered the pure EV hack mode. LOL! And yes there won't be any warranty issues (like everybody is asking me) since relays malfunction from time to time.

The rocket switch is just for manual overriding of remote radio frequency switch (shorting it) and I left it inside the fuse box. No wires are coming out of the fuse-box but one ground. This rocket switch is not necessary it's like bypass of radio frequency switch if malfunction. I am turning ON...

It is easier - natural to move your hand back by mistake. Forward is much more intentional movement. So it is done not to turn on reverse while moving forward... my thoughts.

They maybe right... I have said it brings back battery to ACTUAL not desired state of health. ;) Whatever BMU measure during DBCAM that's it. It may be 10% improvement or it may stay as it was, even go lower.

Like Martin have said, the easiest and correct way is to subtract electric mileage. So pure engine consumption is like he said around 6.5L/100km at 95-100km/h and going up with speed increase. if you make 50km on electric then on 100km your consumption will be half of previously mentioned numbers.

DBCAM is an procedure that measure and brings back battery to its actual SoH - state of health. ATL is all time low I suppose.

Just install the engine kill switch and you will be reborn. I bought the vehicle specially for its full ev capability architecture and lack of complicated transition.

Depend on mileage but will say anything over 75% seams normal.

I suppose your vehicle is new... give it few years and it won't stay in Parallel while in Normal. I don't like Normal at all. It will leave me without any battery backup for unforeseen traffic etc.

Doesn't your PHEV keeps Parallel once Charge is selected? Beside engine warming period mine will stay continuously without dropping Parallel while in Charge mode. I agree on the data but I am not even looking for it anymore... except to compare with other vehicles like you have said. Since I...

There is no need for so many complicated fuel comparison experiments in all kind of different driving conditions... incomparable by nature. Parallel mode is better than Series mode, that's a fact. Parallel mode is there for a reason otherwise nobody would have complicated the vehicle... it...

Gary is one of the guys saying to me ABC (always be charging) and fully charge all the time. Well if you don't care about the battery it won't last, that's the reality. Since his check engine is on and nobody can find errors, obviously and the warranty is questionable why he don't mod his...

You are kidding yourself... there is no such "colour rust" warranty honouring. The rust warranty is for perforation rust. If you can put your finger inside the door through rust hole then they will honour it.

I was wondering the same first time when I saw it!? WHY... to save some filter paper!?

No problemo. I know the difference in wander and wonder but when just typing it fast and if the corrector don't get the misspell...it stays as it is. I am relying to much on autocorrect probably and not paying attention.

Why not the interior lights in top of the driver?

I was wandering what a generic replays all four of them... like from a professional politician. Didn't thought about AI.

Since in Series mode the engine is not locked to the wheels in theory it can always be in most efficient zone but all energy produced will come with mechanical to electrical energy conversion losses. This scenario will feed very high current to the battery though and that won't be ideal...

The maximum difference in cell voltage on mine 2018 is 0.003V, not ideal but wouldn't say so bad. It can be the culprit though.

I have installed an remote RF switch on main engine relay so I can shut it whenever I want. You can try the effect by simply removing the relay... here is the moment for an disclaimer. (one should take all responsibility by doing so, I just share my experience) There will by multiple warnings...