See 'Heater Question' on 'General Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV forum' re. my experience of getting the heater to work again. Likely to need the citric acid treatment and mysterious knowledge of how to bleed the system once it is clear.
Fortunately for me, my heater is now toasty hot again. No apparent damage or component failure. There was some further goopy crystallized coolant partially blocking the in-line filter. Heating system (matrix and electric heater) was pumped in both directions with citric acid solution using...
Yes I am hopeful I'll get it fixed - just a bit concerned what the cost might be. Seems to start with a Best Case Scenario of: 1) Bleeding air out of the system. If that doesn't work then... 2) Progress through the citric acid reverse pump-through treatment. Then 3) If faults are found, the need...
Hmm, well further reference to Facebook enlightens me to the fact that this is a common problem with Outlander PHEVs. Mitsubishi use a procedure involving an electric pump and citric acid solution pumped through the system to clear it out (heater matrix - the very difficult to get at bit inside...
My heater is now not entirely 'toasty'. Just had the engine coolant changed for the first time (vehicle now 9 years old) using the correct spec blue Mitsubishi coolant. Am now finding that after around 20 minutes of driving use the heater temperature becomes only tepid. If I'm parked stationary...
I got these warning lights too. Have just had to replace rear, passenger side wheel bearing/hub because integral retaining clip for ABS sensor has rotted away due to rust. See pictures that show original, rotted OEM hub and new SKF replacement. The ABS retaining 'clip' is the bit on the left...
I've now owned my 2014 Outlander PHEV for 6 years, it was 2 years old with 3000 miles on the clock when I bought it. It was previously owned by the Colt Car Company (Mitsubishi UK RIP) It's now done 40,000 miles. So the 8-year battery warranty is no longer there to comfort me through those long...
See 'Front Shock Dust Cover Bellows Shreaded' post somewhere in Technical Discussions (with photos - although when I just viewed, the photos don't seem to work?). I think total cost for me was about £300 parts and labour to have rubber covers replaced - took about 2 hours - had top shock...
Well they certainly look the same, but I'd have thought that it would be a lot easier to find a used PHEV wheel as I'm thinking that there are likely to be a lot more PHEV vs diesel Outlanders anyway. Got mine of Ebay - around £500 for four alloys, and got them powder coated for £50 each. There...
Yes, I managed to do this once while I was changing a wheel. I've never been able to work out why it's possible to switch the power button into this particular position, (ie, Power button has blue light on but green 'READY' graphic on dash is not illuminated, so main battery is not connected)...
...And here's what the top bearings look like (one per side) - pictured here are the original Mitsubishi items that were replaced. The other picture shows where they fit on top of the strut assembly. The rubbery bit on the outside edge is the dust seal which is provided with the new bearing...
I've just had these rubber boots repaced on my 2014 GX4h. As with earlier post above, Febest MSHB-GF2F front shock absorber boots and I also replaced the top bearings at the same time. Febest Strut Support Mounting Anti Friction Bearing MB-GFF. Got them off ebay. Took skilled mechanic in Ford...
Mine had a two year on-and-off re-gas and subsequent gradual gas loss situation (snowflake would flash, then if i switched it off and then on again a bit later it would work again for a while etc...etc) turned out to be leaking condensor. No surprise there really, the condensors I think are made...
Mmm, yes I see. Well spelling has never been my strong point. I worked in journalism for 20 years too! Although we fortunately had sub-editors to correct any spelling problems.
We do have to contend with many types of wildlife here in rural Scotland but no alligators as yet. I'm more worried...