14 mile range for 2018 Outlander PHEV, normal?

Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV Forum

Help Support Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

animintegrius84260

New member
Joined
Aug 5, 2023
Messages
1
I got a 2018 Outlander PHEV this week from a local Mitsubishi dealer. I charged it to full today and the mile range is just 14 miles. This is a used car but the report says it's well-maintained with one previous driver and without any accident. The mileage is 77k. Is this normal?

I know there is this guess-o-meter thing, but not sure if 14 miles on the display ever makes sense. The temp at where I am is like 86 F so it's not crazily cold or hot. Has anyone had similar experience with their car or any suggestion on how to check the battery health?
 
animintegrius84260 said:
I know there is this guess-o-meter thing, but not sure if 14 miles on the display ever makes sense. The temp at where I am is like 86 F so it's not crazily cold or hot. Has anyone had similar experience with their car or any suggestion on how to check the battery health?

While your estimated range is a little on the low side, it totally depends on the previous owners driving habits. See how far you can actually drive, and take note of the terrain eg hills, as well as driving speed. Repeat a couple of times from full charge to flat.
Our the scientific way to get the battery capacity is to pay for a dealer to run a capacity test, or buy an OBD adaptor and use our app EvBatMon which will give you the same answer as the dealer. The Ah capacity of the battery is recorded within the car's computers (BMU ECU), although a full charge and drain of the battery will give you a more accurate reading.
Battery degradation of the phev is higher than most EV due to it's small capacity, and only air cooling off the cells.
 
We bought our used PHEV from a dealer at the beginning of this year. After a full overnight charge at home our EV mileage is always somewhere 24 and 30 miles.
 
Just drive, don't look at that estimate.

It's a bit on the low side, but it depends on many factors, and... what you are being shown is just an estimate.

Drive in EV mode, Normal, with B0, keep the heater off, and you should be getting between 20 and 25 miles.
 
I got a 2018 Outlander PHEV this week from a local Mitsubishi dealer. I charged it to full today and the mile range is just 14 miles. This is a used car but the report says it's well-maintained with one previous driver and without any accident. The mileage is 77k. Is this normal?

I know there is this guess-o-meter thing, but not sure if 14 miles on the display ever makes sense. The temp at where I am is like 86 F so it's not crazily cold or hot. Has anyone had similar experience with their car or any suggestion on how to check the battery health?
I have NEVER had anything less than 18 miles on the range...or I will sue the seller...This is my car down to a manually worked out accuracy plus info on the dash......Despite my vehicle being 8 years old and done 43,000 miles, I still get 26 miles in the Summer and 20 miles on a cold winter's day. Travelling at 20 or 30mph is best [as in any car EV or Diesel]. I always coast as slowing the vehicle down either by Bo-B5 or braking wastes energy. Unfortunately there are obstructions, Pheasants, Traffic lights, Tail backs..and no matter how great the anticipation, you will eventually still have to slow down and brake without crashing. The best option would be to coast, and have such heightened anticipation that you never brake. There you are question answered, changing from one form of energy [Kinetic] to another is no good..so ideally let gravity and friction slow the vehicle down. However even with the greatest of anticipation, YOU HAVE TO BRAKE at some point. So do you choose brake of R0-R5? I have looked at the amount of charging, and R5, in you need to slow down quickly, and R5 would be preferred, as braking in the Outlander PHEV converts less than R5 which converts more. On a downhill, clear run, do not accelerate, do not use B5 or any regeneration...just let it roll. I am doing more than 32 miles...where the MPG is just --- which means that it is doing more than 99mpg. After around 35 miles, the MPG starts to record--90mpg.......88mpg.....and around 50mile run...it has dropped to 75mpg. 50 miles mind. Anything more than 100 miles run, drops the efficiency to 30mpg [without charging]. I do around 150 miles per week, and only have to top up unleaded petrol every six months or so [about 23 litres] that is provided I top the battery up every 32 miles.
 
I have NEVER had anything less than 18 miles on the range...or I will sue the seller...This is my car down to a manually worked out accuracy plus info on the dash......Despite my vehicle being 8 years old and done 43,000 miles, I still get 26 miles in the Summer and 20 miles on a cold winter's day. Travelling at 20 or 30mph is best [as in any car EV or Diesel]. I always coast as slowing the vehicle down either by Bo-B5 or braking wastes energy. Unfortunately there are obstructions, Pheasants, Traffic lights, Tail backs..and no matter how great the anticipation, you will eventually still have to slow down and brake without crashing. The best option would be to coast, and have such heightened anticipation that you never brake. There you are question answered, changing from one form of energy [Kinetic] to another is no good..so ideally let gravity and friction slow the vehicle down. However even with the greatest of anticipation, YOU HAVE TO BRAKE at some point. So do you choose brake of R0-R5? I have looked at the amount of charging, and R5, in you need to slow down quickly, and R5 would be preferred, as braking in the Outlander PHEV converts less than R5 which converts more. On a downhill, clear run, do not accelerate, do not use B5 or any regeneration...just let it roll. I am doing more than 32 miles...where the MPG is just --- which means that it is doing more than 99mpg. After around 35 miles, the MPG starts to record--90mpg.......88mpg.....and around 50mile run...it has dropped to 75mpg. 50 miles mind. Anything more than 100 miles run, drops the efficiency to 30mpg [without charging]. I do around 150 miles per week, and only have to top up unleaded petrol every six months or so [about 23 litres] that is provided I top the battery up every 32 miles.
Sorry correction all R5, mean B5. I would consider a new set of batteries if you get only 14miles. From new it is 32 miles. Although my dash says 26/28 or even 20 [now very cold 0 degrees] I still get more than 99mpg [ie 22 miles per litre] for the first 32 miles. Had it checked out in mid December 2023, and he says batterieis are in a very good condition for a 43,000 seven year old vehicle.
 
My car is very similar in age and mileage to yours, and I get just over 20 miles in summer and today is 16-17 miles. But I live in a very hilly area - no doubt if I moved to East Anglia or the Netherlands, I'd get a better reading (and I also don't concentrate on maintaining a constant 30mph).
 
Get a Bluetooth code reader and the "PHEV Watch" app. Then you can read the actual battery condition. Less than 70%, warranty replacement.
 
Get a Bluetooth code reader and the "PHEV Watch" app. Then you can read the actual battery condition. Less than 70%, warranty replacement.
That depends on the location, also the dealer will always do a DBCAM before that, which returns between 5 and 10%. So in reality is better to go when at 60^ battery SOH OR a week or two before the warranty runs out.
 
Get a Bluetooth code reader and the "PHEV Watch" app. Then you can read the actual battery condition. Less than 70%, warranty replacement.
I have PHEV Watch, and I've not found Percentage of battery health/charge.. how do I find it? Could you provide screenshot please or additional description?
For reference 2019 North American 2 Liter engine, rapidly approaching 100k km mark, heavy use of the battery some days 2-3 times charging to max out EV range. Approaching 2 years ownership by end of May, and we are doing over 30k km a year on it.
 
Just drive, don't look at that estimate.

It's a bit on the low side, but it depends on many factors, and... what you are being shown is just an estimate.

Drive in EV mode, Normal, with B0, keep the heater off, and you should be getting between 20 and 25 miles.
Is that B0 all of the time? Or should it be B0 when accelerating and cruising, then B5 when decelerating and breaking?
 
I have PHEV Watch, and I've not found Percentage of battery health/charge.. how do I find it? Could you provide screenshot please or additional description?
For reference 2019 North American 2 Liter engine, rapidly approaching 100k km mark, heavy use of the battery some days 2-3 times charging to max out EV range. Approaching 2 years ownership by end of May, and we are doing over 30k km a year on it.
On the opening screen, at the very top in the centre there is a little green tab. Drag it down and you get the title "PHEV Watchdog Lite" (in my case) and to the right side are 3 dots. Tap them and you get a drop down menu. Choose "Battery Condition" and you get a new screen. Tap on the latest date, and a full list of parameters is shown. Tap on any in the list to see a description of the meaning of that parameter.
 
That is good we had it new, it said 32 miles, then it dropped to about 25-26 after 43,000 9 years now. The winter when temperatures dipped to 0 centigrade, it on showed 20-21 miles. You must not be from the UK Scrumpymike? Aussie? Because we cannot buy a new PHEV for 3 years now since Mitsubishi left the UK.
 
I got a 2018 Outlander PHEV this week from a local Mitsubishi dealer. I charged it to full today and the mile range is just 14 miles. This is a used car but the report says it's well-maintained with one previous driver and without any accident. The mileage is 77k. Is this normal?

I know there is this guess-o-meter thing, but not sure if 14 miles on the display ever makes sense. The temp at where I am is like 86 F so it's not crazily cold or hot. Has anyone had similar experience with their car or any suggestion on how to check the battery health?
I'm in the same boat. 2018 with around 35K miles. I get about 12 miles of range on the battery. Full charge in the morning 6ish miles to work, 6ish miles home, 0 charge left. I use EV mode, acceleration and cruising is on B0. deceleration is on B5. I have one large "hill" that I will go down on B0 if the light at the bottom is green, but B5 if red. I don't run the A/C or heater, just seat warmers if it's cold.

Bought it used. Had the same good report. Car is in great condition (cosmetically).
 
I'm in the same boat. 2018 with around 35K miles. I get about 12 miles of range on the battery. Full charge in the morning 6ish miles to work, 6ish miles home, 0 charge left. I use EV mode, acceleration and cruising is on B0. deceleration is on B5. I have one large "hill" that I will go down on B0 if the light at the bottom is green, but B5 if red. I don't run the A/C or heater, just seat warmers if it's cold.

Bought it used. Had the same good report. Car is in great condition (cosmetically).
Battery is not in good health. Mine has done 43,000 bought new in 2015. Full charge in cold winter zero degrees centigrade would be 20, and as temperature rose this morning to 5 degrees, it is now 21mile range. You seriously need to get battery checked by a specialist. It is not in good health. I get around 31.5 miles combined with petrol [which shows ------ , meaning it is doing more than 100 miles per gallon of petrol. ] You will find that if you diagnosed the battery and changed parts of it, you will get your range to be 26++ miles, and not 14 as described. You are only getting 12 miles round trip. I am getting [in an older car with more miles] 31.5 miles. Really seriously get it checked out. Never buy used, as you do not know what previous owner did with abusing the battery.
 
I have had a nightmare of a Time with my new used 2018 phev. When I first got it at carmax, they didn't charge it for me at all so I had no idea but when I charged it it only went up to 11. So after a month I took it in and they got it up to 22 which is what I consistently had on my previous one. One problem: the charge wore down, the car completely died. It would not kick over to gas and I got stranded several times. So obviously I took it back in. They kept it for 2 months. It now doesn't die when it runs down, but it's back to only getting 11. And the Mitsubishi dealer is washing their hands of it and me. Thoughts, questions, remedies?
 
I have had a nightmare of a Time with my new used 2018 phev. When I first got it at carmax, they didn't charge it for me at all so I had no idea but when I charged it it only went up to 11. So after a month I took it in and they got it up to 22 which is what I consistently had on my previous one. One problem: the charge wore down, the car completely died. It would not kick over to gas and I got stranded several times. So obviously I took it back in. They kept it for 2 months. It now doesn't die when it runs down, but it's back to only getting 11. And the Mitsubishi dealer is washing their hands of it and me. Thoughts, questions, remedies?
The other thing is that the dealer says this is normal. But clearly they fixed it three months ago when I had it in there. They got it up to 22. But now they're saying it's normal for it to be 11. I would like to have some data to bring to them, so I would love it if a bunch of you, especially with 2018's, would just leave a comment of what your typical charge is and your mileage. Thank you!
 
The other thing is that the dealer says this is normal. But clearly they fixed it three months ago when I had it in there. They got it up to 22. But now they're saying it's normal for it to be 11. I would like to have some data to bring to them, so I would love it if a bunch of you, especially with 2018's, would just leave a comment of what your typical charge is and your mileage. Thank you!
You could try a couple of things. Best is to get an OBD reader (I use a VGate wifi from Amazon for about £25) as suggested at the start of this thread and get free PHEV Watchdog app. That will tell you what your battery capacity is and if it is much less than 70% (say 60-65%) and you have done less than (I think) 100k miles then consider taking it to a Mitsubishi dealer for them to assess (at about £250) and you should get a free DBCAM which might help. If still less than 70% you get a new battery for free. A second option is to get a Tapo Smart plug for about £10-15 and use it to see how much it takes to fully recharge from your battery when you have 0 miles range. If you have the 12kW battery (which is actually only 10kW available to you) then it should take at least 7kw.
By the way, this time of year you might only get 12-15 miles battery only with a light foot and no heater anyway. The initial range on your dashboard is just a guess from the car by the way, hence the term "guessometer" that is often used.
 
What's DBCAM? If I'm considering selling my 2018 Outlander PHEV in US, dealer can take advantage of $4,000 IRA plus State incentives. With 80,000 miles, what price should I look for?
 
Back
Top