Average klms (miles) per charge

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Average kilometers per charge

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  • 30

    Votes: 2 11.8%
  • 40

    Votes: 9 52.9%
  • 50

    Votes: 5 29.4%
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  • Total voters
    17

thegurio

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 21, 2014
Messages
190
Location
Hobart, Tasmania
Hi all, I was wondering what the actual range per charge is when you unplug and drive? Both rated and actual. As in it says 35k's when I unplug, then I can do 28k's, or something like that...

I suppose in winter it's going to be a lot less than in summer, but say an average over the last month will do.
 
Hi gurio
Since the "trip" display doesn't have a trip mileage or a mileage since last charged, you have to make an effort to track this yourself - resetting the trip odometer for instance, but I've never bothered. Actually, I find the lack of simple info like trip time elapsed, average speed and distance driven really annoying - my 12 year old Polo had a great trip computer which I used all the time - I also found the spot MPG (rather than average) really useful for driving economically.

There are lots of things that will impact the range, but I would say I can reliably get to just under 30 miles - that's not completely "normal" driving though - lots of coasting, gentle pulling away, use of regen, planning ahead and generally driving fairly slowly. It becomes a bit of game...
Cheers
H
 
If no A/C (both heating and cooling) I can do the declared 52 kms easily but I drive in ECO, I am very gentle on accelerator, I use paddles a lot to regenerate extra juice as much as possible and also I over inflated tyres to 38 Psi from recommended 35 Psi, but won't do it again cause already stiff suspension becomes almost unbearable in Sydney's horrible third world class roads.
It must be due to very conservative driving, I sometimes get over 60 km EV range displayed after full charge and my record is 65 km :D . But the range seems to go down a lot quicker in initial kms of the drive.
 
So it seems about 40 k's is the average mark one can expect if they use a little a/c?

What would happen if just the seats were on? Would that be better overall? Or if it's some sort of draw from the battery it's pretty much the same end result?
 
I definitely get 40 km when A/C is set to 22 degrees C during entire trip in typical 15 degree Sydney winter day. What I wonder is that what's going to happen during hot summer days when average temperature is over 30 and A/C compressor running for cooling. I am assuming that compressor will suck out more power that electric heater :!: and range will be shorter :?:
 
25 miles (40Km) is about average for me. Indicated range is almost always higher (typically 28 miles) but rarely achieved.
 
ufo said:
I definitely get 40 km when A/C is set to 22 degrees C during entire trip in typical 15 degree Sydney winter day. What I wonder is that what's going to happen during hot summer days when average temperature is over 30 and A/C compressor running for cooling. I am assuming that compressor will suck out more power that electric heater :!: and range will be shorter :?:


Fair point... Being in Hobart, I doubt that will be too much of a problem lol. But yes, your point still stands. I doubt it would though, as the ICE has to run to warm the car when you're away from a plug anyway, so it would be the same end result I'd say?

maddogsetc said:
25 miles (40Km) is about average for me. Indicated range is almost always higher (typically 28 miles) but rarely achieved.

Hmmm.... That's about what I would expect - A/C on? Or heat? Or nothing?

I suppose time will tell what I can get out of it as I'm picking it up tomorrow with a full battery, so it'll be interesting to say the least. Best thing is that they have now installed a plug, about a block away from where I normally park, so not only do I get free parking now, I also get a charge as well! Bad part is I now have to walk another block in the rain lol.
 
Hi,

I get 30 miles (48km) with A/C off (climate on) and about 25 miles (40km) with A/C on.

My understanding is that cooling requires less power than electric heating as it simply uses a heat pump to "move" the heat rather than "create" the heat. If doing a longer journey than a single charge can manage it *might* be worth using save mode initially in order to warm up the car rather than using battery. I suppose if it is really cold the engine would start to provide heating anyway. We'll find out more when the winter arrives :(

Kind regards,
Mark
 
avensys said:
Hi,

I get 30 miles (48km) with A/C off (climate on) and about 25 miles (40km) with A/C on.

My understanding is that cooling requires less power than electric heating as it simply uses a heat pump to "move" the heat rather than "create" the heat. If doing a longer journey than a single charge can manage it *might* be worth using save mode initially in order to warm up the car rather than using battery. I suppose if it is really cold the engine would start to provide heating anyway. We'll find out more when the winter arrives :(

Kind regards,
Mark

We have winter here, and I would strongly suggest heating when plugged in for a start. I imagine the car would have to use the ICE to provide the heat to warm the car anyway (I actually pick mine up today, so I don't know that for a fact, but that's how I imagine it works). So in fact, using charge might be an option to not only warm the car, but also charge the battery while you're at it(depending on how much you have left of course)?
 
I preheat PHEV using remote app in the mornings and ICE has never kicked in during my all electric 12 km drive to work so far. I also once had to drive with heating on without preheat and ICE did not kick in at all. I suppose it also depends on out side temp.
 
My daily commute is 25 miles each way and I recharge before each trip.. Have only had the PHEV for a week or so, no longer journeys yet. The journey is half motorway, half winding narrow country roads and there is an 800ft height difference between home and work. In one direction, with the descent assisting, I estimate I could hit the 32 mile figure that Mitsubishi quotes. In the other direction I get around 22~23 miles before the ICE cuts in.

Paul
 
I have found that the Average kms [RANGE indicated] for a full charge is highly subjective. I have had up to 85km. I have also had the range increase from 55km up to 75km during a drive. The car was driven in SAVE mode to preserve the battery for stop start city driving. This drive was through winding hilly country highway at 95-100kph. Car did run on EV for 4.4km before ICE came on. PHEV ran ICE in series and parallel modes. Drive was about 60km. Road conditions and driving style impact heavily. On relatively flat roads my PHEV settles on 40-50km estimated battery range. I hope to one day see 100km range. Will have to have the camera ready. I prefer to hear a relatively smooth ICE operation with parallel hybrid mode with the electric motors and generator adapting to the changing loads, to the ICE continuously adapting speed to the changing load with series hybrid mode. My normal travels muck up the best driving style to get from A to B and ultimate fuel economy for me is not the best for the other drivers I share the bitumen with on single lane country roads.

PS I have never achieved the indicated battery range when driving. I have had 7km range indicated with 4 bars on the battery, but the range indicated 55km when fully charged. I wish the car used real coulomb counting and speed to calculate range instead of what ever is used now. A power gauge with an accurate remaining kWh would be more sense. Maybe need to open a thread for a wish list of what to display.
 
Thanks...I would have to agree that the car is very subjective and variable about what it posts. As I mostly do short trips with lots of starts and stops, I average about 43 klm per charge. This rarely is the actually kilometers traveled, usually it is less. At first I was charging after every drive but upon reflection decided this might not be the appropriate way to go...so now I charge the vehicle only when it is virtually out of charge (every 2 or 3 days), or if I know I have a longer trip the next day. The ICE never has come on and in two months my fuel tank was still on full. Most mornings the temp is around 12 degrees in Sydney when I start driving and this does not seem cold enough for heat. In the afternoon, the sun warms the car up and I have been using the fans to breath or opening a window.
Then on Sunday I decided to go visit friends on the Central Coast. Of course it was poring and bucketing the whole way. I made it to the the expressway on the ev charge and with 1 km showing put the charge on once on the highway. This seems to have worked fine though I now suspect that if I had used the save button instead I would have a better millage rating. My main problem was trying to get the windows to defog, without freezing myself out. Any suggestions? And has anyone come up with the most economical way to use the climate control? In reading the discussions on the most economical use of the ICE, I learned that I needed to travel approximately 70 mph to go into parallel hybrid mode. As all the Australians will agree 70mph( 120 kph) is illegal except in the Northern Territory. Besides the road conditions were not conducive on Sunday. While driving through the heaviest rains the FCM was not available and Crusie control was also having problems. I suspect this might have been a problem with the sensors being overloaded.
I wish Mitsubishi would have a set of procedures published instead of the stream of consciousness manual which wonders ...
 
It appears to me that you are over operating the car. In general you have very little need to push buttons driving. The Charge button has specific uses, like in the mountains and when you will be entering an emission control zone ahead.
The Save button is only needed for driving on the motorway when you want to conserve the battery charge you have for the city driving after the motorway or if you have another reason to conserve battery charge.
In general the aim is to leave with full battery and to arrive with an empty one.

For the rest the car is best left to its own devices.

It is irrelevant whether you charge the car incremental or in one go. ( well, theoretically charging from half or less empty multiple times will yield a longer battery life than charging from empty to full fewer times, but I doubt one would notice in the end)

As for the heating you can best keep the setting to auto. Deactivate the AC when you do not need it for better fuel economy, but do switch it on for defogging. Together with the temperature control set to your comfort temperature it will remove moisture
For defogging/defrosting just push the defrost button.

All in all there are no real procedures except use the controls only as needed.

Btw., the ICE can only operate in parallel mode eat speeds over 117 KpH as it connects to the front wheels directly and has no gearbox.
 
emeraldgreen said:
Thanks...I would have to agree that the car is very subjective and variable about what it posts. As I mostly do short trips with lots of starts and stops, I average about 43 klm per charge. This rarely is the actually kilometers traveled, usually it is less. At first I was charging after every drive but upon reflection decided this might not be the appropriate way to go...so now I charge the vehicle only when it is virtually out of charge (every 2 or 3 days), or if I know I have a longer trip the next day. The ICE never has come on and in two months my fuel tank was still on full. Most mornings the temp is around 12 degrees in Sydney when I start driving and this does not seem cold enough for heat. In the afternoon, the sun warms the car up and I have been using the fans to breath or opening a window.
Then on Sunday I decided to go visit friends on the Central Coast. Of course it was poring and bucketing the whole way. I made it to the the expressway on the ev charge and with 1 km showing put the charge on once on the highway. This seems to have worked fine though I now suspect that if I had used the save button instead I would have a better millage rating. My main problem was trying to get the windows to defog, without freezing myself out. Any suggestions? And has anyone come up with the most economical way to use the climate control? In reading the discussions on the most economical use of the ICE, I learned that I needed to travel approximately 70 mph to go into parallel hybrid mode. As all the Australians will agree 70mph( 120 kph) is illegal except in the Northern Territory. Besides the road conditions were not conducive on Sunday. While driving through the heaviest rains the FCM was not available and Crusie control was also having problems. I suspect this might have been a problem with the sensors being overloaded.
I wish Mitsubishi would have a set of procedures published instead of the stream of consciousness manual which wonders ...

I live in South Dural/Cherrybrook area and did two trips to central cost and got the best out of PHEV by driving on pure EV until reaching the freeway then hit save all the way to Gosford. As soon as out of freeway switched to pure EV, driving around Gosford depleted all EV range, so I let it do whatever it wants (series mode) Then on the way back as soon as I get on freeway, I hit charge. Once it charged 12 km EV range, I switched to Save (I know it takes app. 12 km EV driving from exit of freeway to my house) When I reached home I still had 2 km EV range(so I must be improving my EV driving cause it took 12 km the last time)
So total distance traveled was 160 km and PHEV reported 3.3 lt/100 km for usage. By the way, where are you in Sydney. If close, I wouldn't mind meeting and comparing PHEVs.

Cheers

Arnie
 
Btw., the ICE can only operate in parallel mode eat speeds over 117 KpH as it connects to the front wheels directly and has no gearbox.[/quote]

I don't think so from my experience. If you use Save or Charge, ICE operates in paralel mode at speeds less than 117 KpH. Depending on battery charge level, load and road conditions;
-ICE operates in paralel mode just running front wheels
-ICE operates in paralel mode running front wheels but also charging drive battery.
-ICE operates in paralel mode running front wheels and rear electric motor running.
-ICE operates in paralel mode running front wheels and both rear and front electric motors running.

PHEV was running with Adaptive Cruise Control set to 100 KpH in the above metioned trip to central cost from Sydney.

By indicating above I don't mean it always remained in Paralel mode, it did switch to series mode too.
 
ufo said:
Btw., the ICE can only operate in parallel mode eat speeds over 117 KpH as it connects to the front wheels directly and has no gearbox.


I don't think so from my experience. If you use Save or Charge, ICE operates in paralel mode at speeds less than 117 KpH. Depending on battery charge level, load and road conditions;
-ICE operates in paralel mode just running front wheels
-ICE operates in paralel mode running front wheels but also charging drive battery.
-ICE operates in paralel mode running front wheels and rear electric motor running.
-ICE operates in paralel mode running front wheels and both rear and front electric motors running.

PHEV was running with Adaptive Cruise Control set to 100 KpH in the above metioned trip to central cost from Sydney.

By indicating above I don't mean it always remained in Paralel mode, it did switch to series mode too.[/quote]

It certainly cannot operate in parallel mode at speeds much less than 70mph since there is no gearbox - in parallel mode, the engine is coupled directly to the front wheels at an effective 1:1 gear ratio.
 
Hi
I guarantee it can operate in parallel hybrid mode from 40mph. Mitsubishi state the engine runs at 2100rpm at 50mph which I have checked with an app called Torque and an OBD reader.
Do a simple test. Make sure the engine is fully warmed up, then in charge mode (just to force the engine to stay running) accelerate past 40mph and you hear the engine revs drop and the display change to indicate the engine is directly connected to the wheels.
Kind regards
Mark
 
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