Hello and question about using ICE for efficient charging

[gwatpe]

I have connected a diagnostic tool to the OBDII port to monitor overspeeding. The device shows ICE rpm as well. I have found that the energy displays on the dash and MMCS do not accurately show the operation of the ICE, so all the modes seen on the displays may differ from what is actually going on.

I use SAVE and CHARGE mode to ensure that there is adequate battery energy for terrain where max power is required, or suburban stop start traffic.

Tend to avoid CHARGE mode, but is good to have in cases where the battery is drawn down and power will be needed later. I prefer the drive with parallel hybrid when more power is required, to the engine noise associated with high power and series hybrid. The electric supplementing the petrol motor is preferable to a racing petrol motor driving the electrics.

 

[user 258]

I have connected a diagnostic tool to the OBDII port to monitor overspeeding. The device shows ICE rpm as well. I have found that the energy displays on the dash and MMCS do not accurately show the operation of the ICE, so all the modes seen on the displays may differ from what is actually going on.

Hi,

Can you elaborate? I also have an OBDII port and have monitored the car with this on a couple of longish trips and I didn't see any obvious discrepencies.

Kind regards,
Mark

 

[user 258]

Hi DGMulti,

I think you are pretty much bang on with your comments. I'd just like to clarify a couple of points though so we can all learn.

Its my conclusion that I can't out guess the Vehicles Control system to get better MPG

Just learning when to use save mode probably gets you 95% of what is possible. The other tricks are more for the enjoyment of getting the very best out of the car but make minimal real world difference.

I have tried almost every combination of Save & Charge and Eco during both the short and long trips and the best mileage figures come from leaving the Mode in NORMAL and being light on the pedals ( both Throttle and brake ).

All ECO does is make the accelerator less sensitive and reduce the power the A/C can use. I would say that ECO may get you a little more economy but if you prefer the NORMAL throttle responce and can be lightfooted then there will be minimal difference.

best cruise speed is 64 MPH

Yep, that's about what I drive at on UK motorways. Driving more slowly would give better economy but 64 mph is a good compromise between taking too long, causing delays to other drivers, and economy.

When in Charge or Save mode the system will decide from around 40 MPH whether to engage Serial or Parallel ICE mode...

... with a prefernce for the more efficient parrallel hybrid mode when driving conditions permit as it is more efficient.

The Paddles - B0 equals a normal car coasting with the clutch disengaged, B5 = enough regen brake to recover 95% of the energy used over 1 mile of steep climb - for example climb Ditchling Beacon to the car park would take the EV range from 22 to 17 - descend using ONLY regen braking to control speed around 30mph and the EV range goes back to 21.

I believe that regen braking is only in the region of 30% efficient at recovering kinetic energy. I suspect that the range changes you mention are in part due to the car using the most recent usage to predict the future EV range. Shortening too much on the climb and then extending too much on the descent.

Just my 2pw

And a very good 2pw it was

kind regards,
Mark

 

[user 422]

Hi DGMulti,
...
I believe that regen braking is only in the region of 30% efficient at recovering kinetic energy. I suspect that the range changes you mention are in part due to the car using the most recent usage to predict the future EV range. Shortening too much on the climb and then extending too much on the descent.

Just my 2pw

And a very good 2pw it was

kind regards,
Mark

Thanks Mark,
I had thought that most early purchasers of EV and PHEV vehicles would be "Gadget People" and could understand the basic principles of using multiple energy systems to drive a car and get the most efficient use from it.... But some questions on this forum shows that the less savvy buyers can "assume" the most erroneous concepts... ( but I suppose i was not aware of how long some of the early vehicles have been in use until I decided to buy one....)
I used to drive a Diesel VW Sirrocco Bluemotion and that would do 58-60MPG at motorway limit - so it was an interesting decision process of size needed and general journey patterns now I am retired that lead me to the PHEV (plus seeing the TV advert just at the time the lease was due to finish...)

Thanks for your compliment...

I thought that about Regen Systems recovery but I have tried several different approaches on Short steep climbs and long shallow ones and the recovery seems to be better than 30% ( as long as the slope distance is greater than .5 mile and you can do the descent without touching the brakes - i.e. no other traffic impeding your progress....

Regards DG

 

[thegurio]

Hi DGMulti,

I think you are pretty much bang on with your comments. I'd just like to clarify a couple of points though so we can all learn.

I have tried almost every combination of Save & Charge and Eco during both the short and long trips and the best mileage figures come from leaving the Mode in NORMAL and being light on the pedals ( both Throttle and brake ).

All ECO does is make the accelerator less sensitive and reduce the power the A/C can use. I would say that ECO may get you a little more economy but if you prefer the NORMAL throttle responce and can be lightfooted then there will be minimal difference.

Probably the best bit of advice so far. I've got similar driving patterns to you, so on longish trips I've been hitting the Eco button, but I actually can't tell the difference in economy, so I'll take the extra 'peppiness' from the go pedal, and not bother hitting it...

Just my 2pw

And a very good 2pw it was

kind regards,
Mark

Can't argue with the above, in fact I'll second it!

 

[mlf]

I have connected a diagnostic tool to the OBDII port to monitor overspeeding. The device shows ICE rpm as well. I have found that the energy displays on the dash and MMCS do not accurately show the operation of the ICE, so all the modes seen on the displays may differ from what is actually going on.

Hi,

Can you elaborate? I also have an OBDII port and have monitored the car with this on a couple of longish trips and I didn't see any obvious discrepencies.

Kind regards,
Mark

Hi what kind of app do you use to connect obd2 with ?

 

[user 258]

I have connected a diagnostic tool to the OBDII port to monitor overspeeding. The device shows ICE rpm as well. I have found that the energy displays on the dash and MMCS do not accurately show the operation of the ICE, so all the modes seen on the displays may differ from what is actually going on.

Hi,

Can you elaborate? I also have an OBDII port and have monitored the car with this on a couple of longish trips and I didn't see any obvious discrepencies.

Kind regards,
Mark

Hi what kind of app do you use to connect obd2 with ?

Hi,
I use Torque on Android. I think there is a free version. I find it interesting to watch the RPM. The only useful thing I do with it is monitor the coolant temperature so I know when to turn the heater on without using electricity to heat the car. I would really like to find a way to monitor the SOC. It also indicates very accurately the fuel tank level in %.

Kind regards,
Mark

 

[gwatpe]

I have an OBD2 HeadsUpDisplay unit. This has ICE coolant temp as well as the L/100km and rpm. The coolant temp can be toggled to vehicle speed as well as AUX battery voltage.

I have used Torque on my phone with the BlueTooth adapter, but prefer a dedicated unit.

I have just started to use the normal cruise control. I used to select the Adaptive Cruise Control. Car seems to be more cruisy now and not like being locked to a constant speed controller. Will be a few more weeks before the effect of SAVE and CHARGE modes while driving in CC mode are evident.

It would be great if the MUT3 codes were leaked for say %SOC and Traction battery volts and AH, so Torque settings could be added to.