Outlander 2020 Dynamic - EV Mode Canceled/Not available

[R1chard]

Hello

I've got a UK spec Outlander 2020 Dynamic had it since new now around 55k miles, it's been pretty awesome but recently when the battery level is below 85% of full charge, EV Mode is "Canceled" then "Not available" if the ICE is running and has already finished normal warm up process. It's high summer here so cold temperatures are not an issue, the fuel is fresh and emptied and changed every two weeks, I've tried different fuel stations. I've also disconnect the 12volt battery for a few hours to try and clear errors. Dealer currently says no warning messages came up they checked the ECU for errors. Its going back to the dealer next week for more checks and to report back to Mitsubishi for further advice.

It's a bit crazy... once EV is canceled it will let you go back into EV mode only when the ICE has stopped running. But again will say EV not available, but shows EV mode selected on the dash. Then if you put the throttle down if will drop out of EV mode and ICE will cut back in. Same selection problem with all other modes.
If you are at a standstill or slow speed in Sports mode it will also select EV at the same time, showing on dash both EV and Sport selected modes!

Has anyone else been through this issue with the dealer and any suggestion to help please??

Many thanks

Richard

Here's a few videos:
https://youtu.be/aYbQA9G6k4M
https://youtu.be/JSMxT2XHcKc

 

[mellobob]

Assuming this is a '23 ... EV mode is not available when you are in a B4/5 mode or have innovative pedal active. Or, when you have selected various drive mode. Also, depends on the battery state I'm not sure if there is logic to this ... but, try it in NORMAL mode and see what happens.

 

[R1chard]

Assuming this is a '23 ... EV mode is not available when you are in a B4/5 mode or have innovative pedal active. Or, when you have selected various drive mode. Also, depends on the battery state I'm not sure if there is logic to this ... but, try it in NORMAL mode and see what happens.

Thanks for the quick reply. It’s a 2.4litre, year of manufacture 2019. I don’t think the B4/5 selection is an issue on this older vehicle.

I have always been able to use B4/5 in EV mode on this model, without problems until a few months ago.

I tried it in NORMAL mode, once the engine has run for a while and the battery still has 80% charge, the errors come up again. EV cancelled or not available. Same problem if drive selection is in ‘D’ or B1 to B5 in Eco, Normal, Sport, Charge, Save mode.

I’m really not sure if it’s a ECU management issue or a problem with the main drive battery or management system. Saying that I still get good range after a charge 25-30miles. So battery health appears OK on the surface.

Thanks
Richard

 

[paddys]

Did you ever find the problem? I have the same issue - '19 UK PHEV, normally runs on B3, but kicks into ICE all the time.

The issue is intermittent - it can be fine for weeks, then has this fault for weeks. I'm not sure if I'm imagining things, but I feel like the power dial on the dash (the one that shows battery/charge/ICE power) goes a lot higher for the same amount of accelerator, when the car's feeling faulty.

I booked it in for a service under warranty, and they could reproduce the issue but had no idea what the fault was. Contacted Mitsubishi and apparently nobody has heard of it. They did a DBCAM, but by that point the problem wasn't happening any more, so everyone pretended it was fixed because we were all fed up with it. Now it's back.

 

[kernelpanic]

A brake caliper getting intermittingly stuck could cause that. (maybe ???)
Try checking if brakes seem hot on any of the wheels when this is occurring, if nothing else it'll eliminate the possibility.

 

[chezz]

Intermittent faults are nearly always difficult on vehicles, I've seen bad earths, dirty potentiometers on the choke, corroded connections under the bonnet, you really need at least a good block diagram showing all sensor connections, How many microprocessors are their in the vehicle that send info to the main ECU or is their just the main ECU, is their a plug in diagnostic system that can interrogate all the processors in the vehicle and all the inputs digital or analogue. So when the fault is their you can try and see if their are any other problems, which may assist in finding the fault.

I've worked on Organs 40 years ago that had a built in diagnostics, checked the Rom, Ram and all the keys/buttons/tabs. I haven't seen what vehicle diagnostic systems can do for 20 years, it was a bit limited when it it first came out, It maybe built in but main dealers are probably reluctant to let you know what it can do.

The comment about the brake caliper sticking, I thought would have shown up as an ABS error, or you'd feel/hear it trying to correct.

 

[chezz]

Just been reading R1chard again, no ECU faults shown. I'd find out where the ECU monitors the total battery voltage from and then check the thick high voltage/current connections from their on.

And I'd see if it's possible to check the cabling to the control and battery unit of the motor control unit, bearing in mind their are a few hundred volts with a very high current available floating around, I doubt that their are any plug/socket connections on the thick battery wiring, It is really a job for a very experienced Mitsubishi technician, and they are probably very hard to find.

If anybody has a wiring diagram for a 2019 model, I'd love a copy, then I would have a better idea of what I'm talking about.

 

[nrayanov]

Why don't you check with a local Mitsubishi garage? Perhaps a DBCAM would help.