Which fuse in 2023 PHEV for DashCam install

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GeekyAU

Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2023
Messages
7
Location
Sydney, Australia
Howdy everyone,
I had a Blackvue Dashcam and backup battery ( https://www.blackvue.com.au/accessories/blackvue-b-130x/ ) installed in my 2023 Outlander PHEV a week and a half ago. This was installed and tapped into the fuse box in the glove box (right-hand-drive in Australia, I believe this is the same location but to the left of the steering wheel on the left-hand-drive models).

When the auto electrician installed it he put it into the IGN_RUN ELEC PARTS (10A) slot (left-most, third up from the bottom). Apologies, these were the *best* pictures I could get of the fuse diagram as the Australian Manual so very kindly excludes any diagram of the fuse boxes or relevant descriptions (either internal or under the hood) and I have been unable to locate any 2023's that seem to match on the interwebs.

Anyhoo, I digress, so the installer has put put a 20A fuse into a 10A slot and hence, a week later (I am assuming after I plugged a USB-C phone in to charge) the Dashcam and Battery are no longer powering up, and, I am guessing it has blown a further fuse upstream.

So, two questions, any idea which fuse I should be looking to hook the DashCam into directly and second, would anyone have a remote idea of the likely upstream fuse (I am assuming under the hood) that would have likely blown.

I have checked the 20A fuse that is now in that slot and it definitely hasn't blown, obviously adding 2x the max load is bad... will be having that discussion, but, want to make sure we get it right.
Thanks in advance everyone!
Stuart


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I just checked the fuse box of my 2023 Outlander PHEV with a DMM. I was looking for a fuse that has permanent 12V power - my dashcam has a parking mode to monitor the car while parked.

I discovered that there is an empty fuse slot on the top of the second column from the left - between the "DOOR LOCK" fuses - which has permanent 12V. So you don't even need to tap any existing fuse for a dashcam that is always on. But you'll need a hardwire kit that protects the battery from discharging (it turns off at ~11.5V and then turns on again at ~12.8V when you power up the car).

If you want your dashcam to turn on and off with the car's power button, use a different empty slot: left 1st column, 4th from the bottom, between the "AIR BAG" and "(IGN_RUN) ELEC PARTS" fuses.

Make sure you hardwire kit contains a Micro2 fuse adapter and the correct USB connector for your dashcam (USB-C, Mini or Micro).
 
Stuart,

I know it's been a while, but is it possible that the dashcam hardwire kit has a separate (low amp) fuse just for the camera? I have a hardwire kit where this is the case (just 1A for the camera). Did you charge your phone with the USB-C plug from the dashcam? If yes, your phone might be the culprit if it has a high-power fast charge mode that pulls a much higher current than the dashcam.

If you charged the phone with the USB outlet in the console and that one doesn't work, please ignore my advice - must be a different problem.
 
Mine is always powered. Haven’t had any issues with battery drain. IMG_2054.jpeg
 
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I just checked the fuse box of my 2023 Outlander PHEV with a DMM. I was looking for a fuse that has permanent 12V power - my dashcam has a parking mode to monitor the car while parked.

I discovered that there is an empty fuse slot on the top of the second column from the left - between the "DOOR LOCK" fuses - which has permanent 12V. So you don't even need to tap any existing fuse for a dashcam that is always on. But you'll need a hardwire kit that protects the battery from discharging (it turns off at ~11.5V and then turns on again at ~12.8V when you power up the car).

If you want your dashcam to turn on and off with the car's power button, use a different empty slot: left 1st column, 4th from the bottom, between the "AIR BAG" and "(IGN_RUN) ELEC PARTS" fuses.

Make sure you hardwire kit contains a Micro2 fuse adapter and the correct USB connector for your dashcam (USB-C, Mini or Micro).
I would just like to confirm that this helped me. I was struggling finding a switched fused but I guess there's a longer delay after the vehicles turned off because of the PHEV system compared to a regular ICE vehicle.

YELLOW Constant/BATT
- 2nd column between [DOOR LOCK FR] 20A and [DOOR LOCK RR] 20A

RED Switched/ACC
- 1st column between [AIR BAG] 10A and [(BAT) ELEC PARTS] 10A

I'm currently using this to power an Alpine unit specific to a2023 GN0W.
Alpine VPC-DM1200A-IC-OU-GN

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Thanks for the pictures and the advice on the empty fuse slots!

My dashcam hardwire kit has a grounding wire... I could not find a suitable place to ground this wire. On my other car it was easy as all the ground wires go to the same point near the furse box and is bolted into the frame... but this car (2024 outlander phev) I could not find a similar grounding point. Any advice on this?

this is the kit:
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07P85GST2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_detailsc
 
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Thanks for the pictures and the advice on the empty fuse slots!

My dashcam hardwire kit has a grounding wire... I could not find a suitable place to ground this wire. On my other car it was easy as all the ground wires go to the same point near the furse box and is bolted into the frame... but this car (2024 outlander phev) I could not find a similar grounding point. Any advice on this?

this is the kit:
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07P85GST2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_detailsc
Use the big shiny screw under the fuse box. Just loosen it a bit, push the wire fork in and screw it in again. Takes less than a minute. I have a '23 model. Is the '24 different and missing that screw?
 
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The screw is there and that's what I used initially but I noticed on my test drive that I could hear a high pitched whine over the speakers and I knew from experience that it was a problem relating to an improper ground.

Anyway, I actually found the grounding point for the car. It is up inside the dash above the steering column. See attached screen shot. When I grounded the dashcam to that point, the whine disappeared.
 

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Thanks, good to know. No whine with my dashcam.
What did you have to remove to get to that bolt?

I just crawled into my car, and there are several bolts underneath the brake pedal that could be used I guess.
I didn't remove anything. I had a box of spare nuts and bolts and found a nut that fit the bolt in the picture and sandwiched the two prong ground between the existing nut and the new nut.
 
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