Recent content by DaveL59

The fronts on mine had to be done at its service earlier this year too, 2019 4HS so only 4 years old, along with discs and pads at all 4 corners. Made that a costly service :-(

be careful to make sure any drain holes at the door bottom are kept clear else water will just sit there and waxoyl etc won't save it much if that's the case. Oft caused by over liberal application of rust treatments in fact.

Ok, first up there is no internet connection when joined to the car's WiFi as it only provides a private network to access the control functions the car is providing via the app, so that's understandable. Likewise you can't upgrade the 'router' since there isn't one, so just ignore that...

Not sure if there's any OBD data available to show how the AC system is functioning, but it could equally be a stuck flap/motor. Without having a schematic of the system it's a guess tho, having had similar on cars with single rather than dual-control. Dealers wouldn't be cheap and if you can...

ah don't get me wrong, kudos for giving it a go and glad it works. I do get the concern tho re the BMS and it effectively no-loading the alternator in a regular car or the 12v converter in our PHEVs. What the long-term effects will be, who knows. Well in an alternator, it could cause the...

That's interesting, I was tempted to do similar but having read that you may risk the charging circuit in the PHEV having issues/early failure because it isn't designed to have a LiFePo (i.e., the disconnects when fully charged) I decided to stay with an AGM one for now. The other risk of...

Only ways to check the condition would be to measure the voltage across the jump-start terminal and the chassis (easy) or remove the boot floor and measure at the battery. Of course that won't tell you if its close to failing, but if low then its likely that it'll be sulfating if left that way...

More, or at least as important would be the load rating of the tyres, since the PHEV is heavier.

Are the halogen ones plain plastic too or are they ribbed for light scatter/direction as that'd make them less suitable. I know on other cars warming in an oven at low temps lets you prise off the front 'lens' so you can fix/modify the innards, then clean up and with some new sealant, refit...

Mine's a 2019 2.4 and I fitted an Optima not long ago, drop in replacement assuming it's the correct one. I ordered from Tanya batteries who at that time didn't have the Yuasa or Enduroline 45AH ones available. I see they do now have the latter in stock tho more expensive than the Optima 38AH...

Mine (UK based) says 240v so perhaps they are voltage specific?

The one I have is the MXS-5.0 model, good enough tho they aren't cheap. Upside is it can be left connected to a battery and will switch to maintenance charge mode, tho how that'd play with the PHEV's auto top-up routine I don't know. Probably best not to do both at the same time...

tbh on my 2019 model I've found that even with the daily top-up the 12v aux battery will go low over 2+ weeks, down to 11.8v. Doesn't seem like it charges for long enough and quite likely the drain from the Infotainment system doesn't help from what some others have said. For the OP...

If you can get in with the key, best would be to open the bonnet and attach a 12v jumpstart battery to the terminals so that the car has enough voltage to operate. Then you'll be able to open the charge flap, but bear in mind that even being able to do this, if you disconnect the jumper battery...

worth visiting the comparison sites. I had similar at the start of the year and searched around, opting to go with Flow s they were closer to the previous year's annual cost. It does seem that there was a big bump overall, not just for EV/hybrid cars, looks like the only way around if forget any...