Battery range dropped suddenly (phev, 2016 model)

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Thanks for the pointer. I ended up ordering a Vgate iCar2 which i believe works well with the watchdog App. Time will tell. :)
If it's a vgate icar pro BLE 4.0 then i confirm that does work (screen shots about)
 
That's real spooky. My drop of mileage started to happen about 20th Dec, and my car will be 8 year old on 1st march!
I wonder if it has anything to do with the week of minus 4degC temp i had just before christmas, possibly bringing down some averages that it guestimates? Will need to do some actual mileage runs to get accurate data. Tweedie, your battery looks to be ok with the stats you have shown above with 13% cycle aging degradation and 19% degradation due to calendar aging.
 
Thanks for that. Car booked for Monday. Noticed passenger side front disc is a lot hotter then the driver side
The passenger side front tyre is where i get terrible wear pattern on the outside of the tread. Always the same tyre and i've had it checked out by several garages. Keep my tyres inflated to the 'high side'.
 
Order the vgate icar pro from Amazon. Plugged it in. Kinda regret it cos there is a lotta info!

Not sure what I am looking at! How much degradation has the battery got?

Is there some dummies guide to that phev watchdog I can read?View attachment 1023

View attachment 1022
If you tap on each line, a pop-up tells you the meaning. The significant one from your posting is the 70.3% which is the Actual state of health from advertised battery capacity. You are only just over the 70%! Given possible measurement errors, it looks as if you might need to get an official test before your warranty runs out.
 
Well definitely had stuck calipers which was replaced along with it's brake pads. Haven't had a chance to give it a run yet but initial run appears to stop the hot wheel problem. I am gonna guess it may take a few days for the mile guesstimater to recalculate before I know if it definitely worked.

Hopefully it will improve otherwise will have to book in for mitsubishi garage. I got a feeling unlikely to get replaced - mate works at garage for years and never once replaced an outlander battery excepy one occasion of a punchured battery pack due to an accident.
 
Good news, gave it a test run driving carefully never more then 30mph, not heating and being light footed managed to achieve 24.7 electric miles before petrol engine kicked in. The miles guesstimater was way out predicting 19 miles coverage at the start.

A big jump from 16miles predicted whilst actually only doing 12.4 electric miles. I was very surprised a stuck calipers was to blame as I had no indication that it was stuck!
 
Following on from previous comments, using the vgate Icar2 ver3, it did not work with watchdog lite. There were no free versions of phev watchdog, so paid for the full version install £13.43 which then worked fine (but fiddly to connect) Happy to say my battery degradation is at 76.8 % at almost 8 years old.
 
The stuck caliper is the most common case for low EV range or sudden drop of even range. I probably commented with this on dozen of topics here.

I'm glad the issue is solved! Enjoy EV miles! :)

EDIT: I actually said here before it's a stuck brake caliper. Happy to be right.
 
I also have 2016 HS PHEV. Mine has ~60K miles. I also typically get 13-16 miles on a full charge at this time of year and 20-25 in the summer.
I use the PH Watchdog app with an OBD2 plugged into the Diagnostic Port under the Dashboard.
Back in 2019 it indicated a capacity of 83%, but that had declined to 81% in 2021, 79% in 2022, 77% in 2023 and is currently 75%.
Since the warranty sets a level of 70%, I doubt whether mine will sink the low by 1st September, when my warranty runs out.
Unless you have a particular cell failing, which might cause a sudden loss in capacity, I suspect your car will have a similar capacity to mine.
Incidentally, the Watchdog App also checks all the individual cells. My lowest is 4.029V, my highest is 4.033V.
The App also indicates that an overnight charge using the 13A charger gives me only 95% of a full charge, even though the car says Charge Complete!
Hope that helps.
It only charges to around 90% as a safeguard
 
Hi,

I have a 2016 HS Phev for nearly 8 years driving sensibly on on 30mph roads and we usually get around 24 miles of electric after overnight standard charge charge. Its only covered less then 50k miles. However, lately, its mile estimate dropped down to around 15-16 for no reason. The heater isn't on and battery status showing its 100% charged. Since its 100%, I assume that there is no electrical drain overnight with lights left on or anything. The temp outside is rather warm for uk wintertime (average around 6-8C). I am assuming that my wall socket isn't faulty otherwise it wouldn't reach 100%.

This morning, I did a FULL charge and it gave an estimate of 16 miles which I thought was really low. drove it sensibly at 30mph, no heater and the lights may be on as it was a bit dark. Only managed to achieve 12.8 miles before using petrol engine kicked in.

Phoned the mitsubishi garage - they saying having the lights on would use up the range..... I am a bit doubtful of that answer to be honest. Surely, having the lights on wouldn't drain that much mileage and isn't the led running on a 12V battery? I insisted on a battery report but they quoting me nearly £300 for 2 hours labour! 2 hours to plug it into a computer.... hmm. They also say, if there was any battery degration there would be all sort of lights/errors coming up on dash board - is that true?

My battery warranty runs out after 8 years and its just coming upto that now so need to act now - would an auto electrician report (a lot cheaper) be sufficient enough to put in a claim for a new battery if the degration is that bad?

Thanks. Any insight would be hopeful
The lights work on the 12V battery.

Outside the warranty period, you will likely be asked for say £80 (it's €110 here) to have your batteries checked. And for that they need the car for 24 hours! This amount will be deducted from the price of new drive batteries if you then buy them. As the batteries cost less than double the test, it's only worth buying new batteries when you need them, in my opinion.

There may be a problem with the voltage which you are receiving from your electricity company. I have seen mine go down to 178V, where 230V is what I am supposed to be getting.

I think 24 miles was very good. My car has only about 16k miles on the clock, and over 8 years old. It never did that much from new. Now it tends to stay on 1km left in the battery for several kilometres on the flat. But mostly I don't drive far enough to need petrol!

Anyway, good luck with it.
 
Hi,

I have a 2016 HS Phev for nearly 8 years driving sensibly on on 30mph roads and we usually get around 24 miles of electric after overnight standard charge charge. Its only covered less then 50k miles. However, lately, its mile estimate dropped down to around 15-16 for no reason. The heater isn't on and battery status showing its 100% charged. Since its 100%, I assume that there is no electrical drain overnight with lights left on or anything. The temp outside is rather warm for uk wintertime (average around 6-8C). I am assuming that my wall socket isn't faulty otherwise it wouldn't reach 100%.

This morning, I did a FULL charge and it gave an estimate of 16 miles which I thought was really low. drove it sensibly at 30mph, no heater and the lights may be on as it was a bit dark. Only managed to achieve 12.8 miles before using petrol engine kicked in.

Phoned the mitsubishi garage - they saying having the lights on would use up the range..... I am a bit doubtful of that answer to be honest. Surely, having the lights on wouldn't drain that much mileage and isn't the led running on a 12V battery? I insisted on a battery report but they quoting me nearly £300 for 2 hours labour! 2 hours to plug it into a computer.... hmm. They also say, if there was any battery degration there would be all sort of lights/errors coming up on dash board - is that true?

My battery warranty runs out after 8 years and its just coming upto that now so need to act now - would an auto electrician report (a lot cheaper) be sufficient enough to put in a claim for a new battery if the degration is that bad?

Thanks. Any insight would be hopeful
Hi Tweedie,
I have a 2014 version with 40700 miles. Used sensibly for 9 years with no problems. Suddenly I only have 13 miles displayed after an overnight charge and at full charge. But it will only take me about 7 miles. Mitsubishi dealer in Nottingham quoted me just short of £9000 for new batteries plus labour. I don’t know if that includes VAT. Petrol consumption has gone up tremendously whilst trying to recharge the battery. Mitsubishi do not sell new cars in UK anymore. No other dealer locally will touch my outlander PHEV I wonder why?? Research tells me this is common. I’ve ordered a new Hyundai.
 
I had a warranty battery replacement on my 2016 2 years ago. MUK made my life hell for 2 years to get it with range as low as 8 miles. I took a case to the motor ombudsman who found in my favour and also upheld an appeal. The Warranty is held in the Netherlands so it was not an enforceable decision. They did 5 DBCAMS. They failed to make 70% at 97K and I got a battery. I was fast charging every day. Since the new battery I never speed charge and no loss of capacity. It took all the joy from this car. I normally change every 3 years. I have decided to run this one with the new battery until it drops. I spent my upgrade money on an old Porsche 987 to get a smile back on my face! Happy to answer questions on the process.
 
The lights work on the 12V battery.

Outside the warranty period, you will likely be asked for say £80 (it's €110 here) to have your batteries checked. And for that they need the car for 24 hours! This amount will be deducted from the price of new drive batteries if you then buy them. As the batteries cost less than double the test, it's only worth buying new batteries when you need them, in my opinion.

There may be a problem with the voltage which you are receiving from your electricity company. I have seen mine go down to 178V, where 230V is what I am supposed to be getting.

I think 24 miles was very good. My car has only about 16k miles on the clock, and over 8 years old. It never did that much from new. Now it tends to stay on 1km left in the battery for several kilometres on the flat. But mostly I don't drive far enough to need petrol!

Anyway, good luck with it.
Good day from Auckland,
I have a 2016 Outlander PHEV with 111,000 on the clock and I regulary charge it even after short trips, I am led to believe that if the car is left on charge for long periods the battery overheats and shortens its life. I have adopted the following: 1 hour charge is equal to 6,2 miles and I never charge it past 20 mlies on the clock ,and if you drive in P4 mode you will find that if you are on moderate hills and inclines a good electric mileage will be attained.
 
Hi Tweedie,
I have a 2014 version with 40700 miles. Used sensibly for 9 years with no problems. Suddenly I only have 13 miles displayed after an overnight charge and at full charge. But it will only take me about 7 miles. Mitsubishi dealer in Nottingham quoted me just short of £9000 for new batteries plus labour. I don’t know if that includes VAT. Petrol consumption has gone up tremendously whilst trying to recharge the battery. Mitsubishi do not sell new cars in UK anymore. No other dealer locally will touch my outlander PHEV I wonder why?? Research tells me this is common. I’ve ordered a new Hyundai.

That sounds like stuck brake calipers.
 
The stuck caliper is the most common case for low EV range or sudden drop of even range. I probably commented with this on dozen of topics here.

I'm glad the issue is solved! Enjoy EV miles! :)

EDIT: I actually said here before it's a stuck brake caliper. Happy to be right.
My 176k miles 2014 Outlander still gives 20+ miles EV range if driven carefully. Until a recent break in the exhaust, the only issue I have ever had with it was a stuck caliper - seems to be a common theme on an otherwise very reliable vehicle.
 
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