Engine light after level 2 charging

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A low 12V battery can cause all sorts of random errors. Make sure it's fully charged while the car is off.

The 12V battery is not highly stressed, as it's main job is to turn on the car's computers and connect to the drive battery - after that it's not really used. Because it doesn't have to start the ICE, you don't notice a gradual decrease in performance like you would when trying to start a regular car in cold weather. So it can soldier on in an increasingly poor state until it starts failing to initialise the car.
 
Also, as the 12v re-charges from the main battery every day, it should have been "full" without the dealer needing to charge - so what do you mean it was "low"?
 
I asked them the same thing (doesn't the ev battery charge the 12v aux?), and they didn't know what I was talking about.

But on day 2 of ownership when I took it in for the engine light, they said the Aux battery caused it and there were a ton of engine light codes. It was before i got my odb2 bluetooth reader so I couldn't check.

So far this hasn't happened since the last time they cleared it... I've only driven it another 60km though.
 
greendwarf said:
Also, as the 12v re-charges from the main battery every day, it should have been "full" without the dealer needing to charge - so what do you mean it was "low"?
A few people have noticed that WiFi turns itself off after some time without use, and the daily 12V charging stops with it. Putting it into full 'Ready' mode turns everything back on.
 
If the dealer left the traction battery at zero, that would mean that there is no mechanism for the daily recharging of the 12 volt battery.

I'm coming to the conclusion that some dealers hate the PHEV and are deliberately running them down.
 
AndyInOz said:
If the dealer left the traction battery at zero, that would mean that there is no mechanism for the daily recharging of the 12 volt battery.

I'm coming to the conclusion that some dealers hate the PHEV and are deliberately running them down.

But it is very difficult to get it down to absolute zero, normal use leaves it at around 20%. Do we know that at this point the daily top-up stops? It would seem odd to protect the charge in the main battery at the expense of the aux - without which you can't start the car!
 
My 2018 is now giving me the same error code P1AF7. I am using a Bosch XPS Level 2 charger. It is the same charger I used for my Nissan Leafs for 6 years with absolutely no problems. The charger worked fine for 1 year with my PHEV. I got charging error codes last winter (Dec 2019) and the dealer said it needed a new ECU. Then Mitsubishi told them there was only 1 in the entire USA, and to tell me the problem is with my home charger. I've had them test the drive battery for months as its Ah capacity has been dropping. They did a reset with the MUT3, I got full capacity back AND the charging errors stopped for entire year. Now in Jan 2011, the Ah are down to 34 (85% SOH) and the charging errors are happening again. If its my charger, why has it been working flawlessly for a year, and now is having issues again? This is a random error occurrence, and I think it could be an issue with the CAN bus or ECU for the charging system at low temps or lower battery capacity, but Mitsubishi won't admit any fault. This is how they can offer a 10yr 100,000 mile warranty, they just deny any problem with the car's hybrid system.
 
fwiw I've also experienced an issue with the CHAdeMO charging on the PHEV (AU market 2020 ES), different to yours but I'm starting to think their software around DC charging is a bit under-par.

I posted details of it in a local EV forum, link here https://forums.aeva.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=6882

That error code reported for that was - P1B02 "Quick charge current stop timeout"

All the best with getting it resolve.
 
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