Lindqvist method : DIY BMU Battery Reset

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It's the actual state of charge of the battery at the time the state of health was reported. Around 43% at 3.88V per cell doesn't sound bad.
Hi! I'm new on the forum, and a new owner of Outlander '17 model (used, Norwegian edition). Reading about all you guys have found out is extremely interesting! I installed the Watchdog and looking at the data, I'm wondering what you think about it.

When I bought the car, the battery showed 78% (31.2Ah) capacity. At 52kkm, I guess this is not too good, but that's how it is. I talked to the dealer about DBCAM, and I was thoroughly ignored - but that's another story.

Since the car is still on warranty, I don't yet want to do any DYI resets. I found a very nice page by Richi (, where he suggested that we could help the BMU to figure out the actual battery capacity by something similar to the DBCAM procedure. In short:

- discharge the battery as much as is allowed by the car, i.e., drive to empty, leave for an hour (SOC around 25-30%)
- turn on heating from battery, wait until heating stops (SOC at this point is 20%)
- waiting a few hours, confirm SOC of 20%. If more, heat again. If OK, then charge it full

So that's what I did. SOC at the bottom is 20.3% (6.3Ah), with voltage 3.807V. After charging full the dog shows 105.1% (32.7Ah), with voltage 4.097V. Since then the BMU decided my capacity dropped to 77.8% (31.1Ah), but it still sometimes charges up to 32.7Ah.

So my question is - in your opinion, what is the actual SOH of this battery considering the voltage at SOC 20.3? Has anyone succeeded in getting the BMU to improve it's estimate on the battery capacity? I do see potential in my case, but of course I might be wrong.

What do you think?
This thread is too long to read all in a short time, so I dont know if this has been pointed out but here goes.
Instead of disconnecting the 12v battery and being unable to open the tailgate to re connect and climbing in the back etc. etc.... there is a fuse in the main fuse box in the engine bay, called IOD. It means Ignition Off Draw or Install On Delivery according to some. It is easy to find as it has a big yellow carrier or puller on it. PULL IT OUT, while shutdown this will reset everything the same as the battery disconnection.

And you can easily open the driver door with the key, and open the bonnet from there.
It worked for me on my Mitsubishi Outlander phev 2016..
Got 38A but good for this time..
I think one can get 40A.
Think of that the trunk door will not open when you have the 12V battery of..
And you get a varning of EV when you first start the car again. But turn it of and on again and it will go away. You will have the fault code in the memory though.. for a while. Code P1AE6...

I did like this.

Disconnected batteri minus for 6 hours.
Connected the loader
Put the minus on for 3-6 sek so I see it started to load.
Then disconnected the minus again.
Let it load full and then let it load for another 8-10 hours.. so about 12-14 hours load.

Then I had 56km range and 38Ah! (Before I had 26Ah)

But when I drove 1 km it was down to 50km range..

I just did it yesterday så I will see how long it takes to go down again..
Winter is coming...
Hi everyone what is on the video /Australian Customer “Andy”/ is not working most of the time damage to the system, and without the MUT can't do anything really because is a special function to start the DBCAM and the reset just clear the data information, the information is from MMC little help here:
Thank you for referring to What a hive of info he provides.
kiss said:
Hi everyone what is on the video /Australian Customer “Andy”/ is not working most of the time damage to the system, and without the MUT can't do anything really because is a special function to start the DBCAM and the reset just clear the data information, the information is from MMC little help here:

When I bought my Outlander PHEV I watched a few of his highly misleading videos.
This guy is dangerous!
Several of his videos are about him putting a device between the throttle control and the vehicles canbus.
This is in a plastic case and completely unsafe and untested to any regulatory standards to install inside a vehicle.
It is also programable to send the vehicle completely out of control (full throttle instantly) when you put the vehicle into drive!
He claims to be a lecturer in electronics yet has absolutely no knowledge of EMC regulations or the dangers of RFI interference to vehicle electronics and the lack of any shielding to these dangers provided by plastic housings of devices.. so I doubt his claims.
In short watch his videos if you want but if you follow any of his "advice".. well you have been warned. lol
This seems to be a very strange procedure, and i wonder if damage to the High Voltage (HV) main contactor surfaces could occur.

The 12V starter battery supplies the power for all the control units plus the pull-in current for relays and main contactors.

If that power is interrupted while HV current is flowing (such as in charging the pack), then the contactor precious metal surfaces will be damaged by arcing.
DC relays are designed to be able to interrupt the rated current without damage. They have a special mechanical design to prevent arching for too long and the contacts are supposed to be able to withstand it. I'd be more concerned about battery degradation after such a procedure because the car can bring it to a much lower state of charge than usual if the capacity is overestimated.
On the same page, arching relay once, no big deal.
Overcharging and over-discharging thereafter will degrade the battery much faster.
I want to share my experiences with used 2016 model with 246000 km on the meter. Battery was flat when bought from dealer so the estimated range was a question mark at the time of purchase. First of all I have owned this car only few days now and charged it only once.

*After first full charge over night the estimated range was only 20 km in around 0 temperatures in Celcius. :rolleyes:
*We drove the car around normally short trips (total 30 km perhaps). the battery was around 40% (8 km range)
*I have Kingbolen Ediag OBD2 scanner which has quite good selection of functions. I used the app to reset BMU (battery management unit) control unit.
*Battery level went instantly up to around 70% but the range remained at 8 km. Though was that oh great, now the system is really messed up.
*Well continued to drive and tried to empty the battery as much as possible and the range stayed 2 km (50% battery level) a long time. However the EV driving continued until the battery level was very low. Did not measure exact km but around 10-15 km at least.
*When the battery was very low. Opened the Ediag app and reset BMU control unit again and also reset the estimated range from the app this time as well. It did mention something about differences between ECU and BMU might occur.
*Then put it to charge overnight.
*In the morning the Mitsubishi remote control app (wifi) showed around 60% charge level and 15h charging time remaining. :oops:
*Now few hours later the time remining is 14h30min. :confused:
*Now I wait (If I can) until the charging is fully completed and see the results.

I believe the car has now some sort of calibration charging going on but it is just a guess.

We have kids to drive around so if this is taking more than 24h from now I might need to unplug and interrupt the charging.

I was ready to try the Lindqvist method but I wanted to try the OBD2 scanner first as I happen to have it. The Ediag APP has so many reset options and see the cell voltages and other service functions as well. Also the cars WiFi password is visible from the APP.
The battery calibration itself is a slow process, but in the MUT-III software it is called "Battery auto capacity measured". I don't know if you have the same option with the Kingbolen Ediag scanner.
You are supposed to do first a BMU reset, and then the Battery auto capacity measured. The car will then start by discharging the battery (so it's best to start the procedure with an almost empty battery) and then slowly charge it.
Keep us updated with your results!
Is that Thinkcar Tech Ediag app?
Can one use just the app with regular OBD scaner or it has to be with their proprietary OBD scaner?

I thought only MUT-III can perform such diagnostic.
Yes, It's Thinkcar Tech Ediag app. Only working with product key registered OBDII reader from Kingbolen. I believe it has a yearly subscription of some kind but not sure as I originally bought it for one time case.

The process did not go well for me. I could not get the "battery auto capacity measure" process to start so I tried "Cell smoothing" which should take around 2 hours. It stayed active for around 1,5 h when the AUX battery died and the process was interrupted.

Well I removed the AUX battery and charged it overnight (did not fully charge) and put it back. The system was not fully reset but I drove until the drive battery was close to empty and charged it fully. Also charged the Aux battery another night to get it full. (Noticed previous owner had "saved" some euros as the battery was a normal starter battery and not AGM. I will abuse the poor thing to it's last breath and replace with proper AGM battery later on.)

After all these "steps" I decided to not mess with it anymore. However the full range is somewhere 30-40 km now. I believe the driving style and AC OFF driving have had more impact on the estimated range than messing with the software.

I have screenshots from the Ediag app. I will share them in a shared folder and modify this post later.
Tried it twice on 2018 PHEV sel US model but it did not work
1st time had 12v battery off for 3.5hours
2nd time 7 hours

Will try again with 14+ hours
My 2018 USA model will only work for one time event only no matter which method I tried. Everything back to square one., about 12 EV miles in winter.
Yes, It's Thinkcar Tech Ediag app. Only working with product key registered OBDII reader from Kingbolen. I believe it has a yearly subscription of some kind but not sure as I originally bought it for one time case.
Well that's some generic universal app, not surprisingly it can't do what specialized MUT-III can do.