Repaired 'unfinished' banging boot trim

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user 816

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Jan 20, 2015
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I don't know if its just my GX4 wasn't 'finished' in the factory or Mitsubishi just gave up with the design fiddly bits but I have just fixed a problem I found.

Since getting the car I have been aware of the odd 'banging' noise from the boot on some bumps.

On investigating I found the interior trim on the left of the boot not secure and I could easily (very easily!) pull it away from the body and let it slap back, its been more noticeable when carrying bags leaning against it. I found the right side didn't do it, far more secure. To see yourself put your fingers in the cubby hole on top the left suspension cover and pull in and out, watch how much it moves down the bottom of the left storage hole/cubby.

I decided to investigate so removed the underfloor plastic tray (5 screws) and found to my surprise as per this pic,

mod16.jpg


The interior trim walls have plastic straps on both sides, the one on the right has been secured with a screw into the metalwork

On the left they just abandoned it with no fixing!! there is not even a hole for any fixing so its not just missing. This is the problem.

So after checking there is nothing important underneath (Easy, just stick your head under the back bumper) I drilled a hole and secured the strap with a large rivet and washer. Its perfectly solid now and the banging is gone. Remind me how much did this car cost??????

Its interesting to see you can only get to the Negative terminal on the rear battery so no hope of jump starting anyone.

Also its shocking to look behind the rear bumper, what a waste of space! the rest of the car floor is much lower and apart from the exhaust which could be rerouted or a flatter design there is no reason the boot floor could not be much lower and the boot much bigger, or a spare wheel fitted under there. I am starting to think Mitsubishi cut many corners. And where is the 12v socket in the boot? there isn't one. Remind me again how much did this car cost??????

I still love it, but I hope they don't rush the next version and put a bit more design into it.
 
Thx for this post, BobEngineer.
I also noticed the noise in the boot on bumpy roads and could identify the left side as potential source.
I guess Mitsubishi simply used the trim parts as in the standard diesel or gas version, which both don´t have the battery in the special PHEV back area.
Happy to hear that it is easy to fix .... some glue might do as well ;-)
 
Is the hole that you've drilled going through to the outside world? If so, I hope you have cleaned very thoroughly and applied plenty of under seal... Don't leave untreated metal exposed to the weather!
 
maby said:
Is the hole that you've drilled going through to the outside world? If so, I hope you have cleaned very thoroughly and applied plenty of under seal... Don't leave untreated metal exposed to the weather!

I will coat the outside shortly its just a small pop rivet so easy enough from under as I can clearly see it ;)

I wouldn't try glueing it though it takes a surprising amount of load for a pretty sad looking plastic strap, pretty much the whole left panel.

Definitely cured the problem much nicer on a long trip today, maybe I noticed the banging more because mine is a 'working car' so often has lots of bags and cases strapped in the boot moving a little.


I have another plan for the boot when I have time. The boot cover is stupidly too low down, its way below the window line and even the seat back top - wasting space. I intend to try and make some metal plates to fit the existing holes (maybe with some blocks on) then the cover fixings fit into new holes in the brackets higher up. I reckon there is at least another 100 litres going to waste.
 
I had noticed the occasional noise from the boot trim so your post prompted me to have a look at my car.
Rather than drill a hole in the floor I have tried a less permanent fix. A loop of cable ties around the battery and then one cable tie pulling the trim clip in to the battery. Seems to work as the trim is now held in place, not sure if it will last but I thought I would try it first before getting the drill out.
 
jkh112 said:
I had noticed the occasional noise from the boot trim so your post prompted me to have a look at my car.
Rather than drill a hole in the floor I have tried a less permanent fix. A loop of cable ties around the battery and then one cable tie pulling the trim clip in to the battery. Seems to work as the trim is now held in place, not sure if it will last but I thought I would try it first before getting the drill out.

Worth a try if it works for you.

I carry quite a lot of heavy gear so needed everything really secure. Once it was done and all back in place no one will ever be the wiser.

The interesting thing is the confirmation that mine was not just a one off such as the hole didn't get drilled so the factory workers just passed it by.

Astonishingly Mitsubishi it seems actually made them all like this and simply couldn't be bothered to engineer a solution and signed off with rattly trim in super quiet expensive car. Dread to think what other corners got cut!
 
I agree, it does look like this will be the case on all the PHEVs.
Considering the Mitsubishi blurb that this generation car was designed with the hybrid powertrain in mind this kind of compromise is surprising.
 
Thanks for the info OP, I was scratching my head since the day i got the car as the noise was annoying me on the bumps. The only problem is that I have a lease vehicle and not sure if I want to risk drilling holes in it :( I might go the tie wrap route.
 
BobEngineer said:
Its interesting to see you can only get to the Negative terminal on the rear battery so no hope of jump starting anyone.
Jumpstarting is done from the front. There is a positive terminal in the fusebox for clamping the starter cables to. It's all in the manual. In any case you should not connect the negative clamp directly to the terminal on the battery anyways.
 
A dead/empty battery can emit hydrogen gas, and when you connect the clamp to the negative terminal to the battery (you always connect negative last) the spark created may ignite the gas and give you a bad day.
Therefore you connect the negative clamp last and to a ground away from the battery.
Pretty much every car manual will tell you this.
 
Fragge said:
BobEngineer said:
Its interesting to see you can only get to the Negative terminal on the rear battery so no hope of jump starting anyone.
Jumpstarting is done from the front. There is a positive terminal in the fusebox for clamping the starter cables to. It's all in the manual. In any case you should not connect the negative clamp directly to the terminal on the battery anyways.
Correct and I have tried it and it worked perfectly. You have to read the manual to find the + pad. Same goes for - which is connected to one of the brackets.
 
ClasseClas said:
Thanks OP for the tip. However I will let my Mitsu garage fix it when I drop my car for the 1st service.

~Let us know if they are interested, I suspect most dealers will shrug their shoulders and say that's how its made. :(
 
ClasseClas said:
Fragge said:
BobEngineer said:
Its interesting to see you can only get to the Negative terminal on the rear battery so no hope of jump starting anyone.
Jumpstarting is done from the front. There is a positive terminal in the fusebox for clamping the starter cables to. It's all in the manual. In any case you should not connect the negative clamp directly to the terminal on the battery anyways.
Correct and I have tried it and it worked perfectly. You have to read the manual to find the + pad. Same goes for - which is connected to one of the brackets.
My dealer told me how to jumpstart by this method during the collection walkthrough.
 
BobEngineer said:
ClasseClas said:
Thanks OP for the tip. However I will let my Mitsu garage fix it when I drop my car for the 1st service.

~Let us know if they are interested, I suspect most dealers will shrug their shoulders and say that's how its made. :(

Agreed - I doubt they will make any alterations that are not recommended by Mitsubishi - no incentive to do so and always the risk of something going wrong and costing them money.
 
maby said:
BobEngineer said:
ClasseClas said:
Thanks OP for the tip. However I will let my Mitsu garage fix it when I drop my car for the 1st service.

~Let us know if they are interested, I suspect most dealers will shrug their shoulders and say that's how its made. :(

Agreed - I doubt they will make any alterations that are not recommended by Mitsubishi - no incentive to do so and always the risk of something going wrong and costing them money.
I will ask my dealership to fix the noise from the boot and advise them to take a look in OP's pics. I do not accept that kind of noise in my car. I'll use my 5 year warranty as a means for getting this fixed.
 
There it was, just the same :lol: , a strap with no screw, so I fixed it by drilling & a self tapping screw.

Thanks for all the help & suggestions everyone.

Cheers Steve
 
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