Faulty home charging cable

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richhodg

New member
Joined
Dec 12, 2014
Messages
4
As anyone had a problem with there home charging cable, mine as developed a fault where it just goes off, wiggle the cable and it comes back on for a while, took it to my local Mitsubishi garage on Friday for them to take a look, they came back with "yes it's got a fault, need to get authorisation from Mitsubishi". Before they can replace it.

As this happened to anyone else, if so how long to get it replaced?
 
jaapv said:
Authorization from Mitsubishi to replace a faulty part under guaranty? That is weird.


Yes same thing happened to me last month reported faulty cable/brick so they wanted the car in to test (required for for a whole day), then when picked up car at end of day they said yes it is faulty will call for a warranty replacement which took 2 weeks to arrive.

Had car for 1 year and 4 months 30,000km so far no other faults runs nice.
 
richhodg said:
As anyone had a problem with there home charging cable, mine as developed a fault where it just goes off, wiggle the cable and it comes back on for a while, took it to my local Mitsubishi garage on Friday for them to take a look, they came back with "yes it's got a fault, need to get authorisation from Mitsubishi". Before they can replace it.

As this happened to anyone else, if so how long to get it replaced?

This is a known problem. Previous posts have identified poor quality assembly where the mains cable enters the control box - fixed by opening it up and doing the job properly, as I recall (NB. Happens from time to time with all electrical equipment)

Also have you always carried/hooked up the box by the rope rather than the cable/plug? It is a very heavy item to expect a crimped connection to bear - hence the dealer's caution before replacing. Again you can try re-making the connection if the dealer won't replace FoC.
 
The problem seems to really be the rules regarding the 0.5m of AC mains cable on the control box. How hard would it be to mold a proper loop into the box, or allow for a longer cord. Maybe we need to lobby the rule makers. We have surely enough owners to ask for a revision of the rules re say AC cable length allowed on the control box.
 
greendwarf said:
richhodg said:
As anyone had a problem with there home charging cable, mine as developed a fault where it just goes off, wiggle the cable and it comes back on for a while, took it to my local Mitsubishi garage on Friday for them to take a look, they came back with "yes it's got a fault, need to get authorisation from Mitsubishi". Before they can replace it.

As this happened to anyone else, if so how long to get it replaced?

This is a known problem. Previous posts have identified poor quality assembly where the mains cable enters the control box - fixed by opening it up and doing the job properly, as I recall (NB. Happens from time to time with all electrical equipment)

Also have you always carried/hooked up the box by the rope rather than the cable/plug? It is a very heavy item to expect a crimped connection to bear - hence the dealer's caution before replacing. Again you can try re-making the connection if the dealer won't replace FoC.

Yes I always used the rope to support the brick. The replacement brick did not come with a cord so I am now supporting the bricks via hooks in the wall, one at home and one at work.
 
gwatpe said:
The problem seems to really be the rules regarding the 0.5m of AC mains cable on the control box. How hard would it be to mold a proper loop into the box, or allow for a longer cord. Maybe we need to lobby the rule makers. We have surely enough owners to ask for a revision of the rules re say AC cable length allowed on the control box.

I don't think there is any "rule" about this in UK/EU - the EV Ford Focus I saw charging last week had an enormous control box and much longer lead to the charge point from it.
 
fatnat said:
jaapv said:
Authorization from Mitsubishi to replace a faulty part under guaranty? That is weird.


Yes same thing happened to me last month reported faulty cable/brick so they wanted the car in to test (required for for a whole day), then when picked up car at end of day they said yes it is faulty will call for a warranty replacement which took 2 weeks to arrive.

Had car for 1 year and 4 months 30,000km so far no other faults runs nice.
It happened to me too. I just got a new one within two days without quibble. I tried to open the old box (they didn't want it back) and forget about all the stories about opening it up and fix it; it is next to impossible to pry open the sealing and you are more than likely to tear loose a cable that is soldered to the print in the process. Somebody who advocates this has never tried it.
 
jaapv said:
It happened to me too. I just got a new one within two days without quibble. I tried to open the old box (they didn't want it back) and forget about all the stories about opening it up and fix it; it is next to impossible to pry open the sealing and you are more than likely to tear loose a cable that is soldered to the print in the process. Somebody who advocates this has never tried it.

Sorry, got to disagree with you there. I've done it, and found no trouble. Agreed, it's not easy to get apart, but if you get one that Mitsu don't want back, you may as well give it a go! Re-seal it well if you do dismantle it.
 
I don't advocate taking the control box apart to just have a look inside. However, I had to extend the cord and yes, the control box was had to get apart, but with some care, it was possible to remove the back without damaging the seal. My sparky did a good job, with the lugs. I used an orange AC lead of 2.5mm conductors. Reused the warning ticket. The cable was heavier and a bit difficult to fit in the gland. All is good so far. Have noticed a mark in the clear moulded plug, but it is only cosmetic. At least their is no join with a lead that is in the weather now and I never have to worry about hanging the box.
 
richhodg said:
As anyone had a problem with there home charging cable, mine as developed a fault where it just goes off, wiggle the cable and it comes back on for a while, took it to my local Mitsubishi garage on Friday for them to take a look, they came back with "yes it's got a fault, need to get authorisation from Mitsubishi". Before they can replace it.

As this happened to anyone else, if so how long to get it replaced?

Took me 20000km/11mnts to damage the first, 14000km/9mnts damage the second... Thought I was quite careful with the second one... Both broke where the 220V cable is entering the box, can see that the cable is different at this point. A friend of mine claimed there must have been some residue from the soldering process inside the cable to make it stiff enough to break. Don't know if that's true, but at least this point should have been made stronger.

The first I got replaced the same day as I delivered the car for service, but in Norway this part is not replaced by warranty from Mitsubishi only but should be replaced by the dealer no matter what Mitsubishi says (real consumer power!).
 
anko said:
jaapv said:
Authorization from Mitsubishi to replace a faulty part under guaranty? That is weird.
Why is that so weird? I think it is called "fabrieksgarantie" for as reason ;)
Whatever it is called - the supplier is responsible. The sales contract was his. It is up to the dealer to sort it with the importer-factory, the client should not be bothered with his hassle.

As you wrote this in Dutch ;) - our law is quite clear on this - as are European regulations.
 
Mine developed a fault end-Feb this year. Emailed dealer & Mitsubishi - looks like the dealer's staff are not quite savvy with emails, as no reply for nearly a month, when Mitsubishi's customer service requested me to take vehicle to dealer.

Accused me of "customer abuse", nevertheless he took photographs and told me he would contact me soon. No reply from dealer for 3 weeks.

Had an online chat today with dealer's staff member and additionally sent off another email to dealer & Mitsubishi as to the possible cause (and possible cure) of the problem. Looks like the cable at the 240v end requires additional support where it comes out of the gland, as constant flexing causes the cable strands to break internally, causing arcing, that eventually cracks the insulation and the sheath. See http://www.qt.com.au/news/mitsubishi-outlander-phev-road-test-review/2534782/ which describes a cable actually going up in a puff of smoke in Queensland. And yes, he too appears to have been accused of "customer abuse".

Let's see what transpires.

Gabe.
 
Gabe said:
See http://www.qt.com.au/news/mitsubishi-outlander-phev-road-test-review/2534782/ which describes a cable actually going up in a puff of smoke in Queensland.
Looking at the picture in the Queensland newspaper, one difference is the plug that goes into the wall. The cable emerges from the bottom of the UK units (assuming the plug is mounted on a wall), which is normal for any UK plug. The Aussie unit appears to emerge from the back of the plug, producing an immediate 90 degree kink due to the weight of the control box, and this is where the fault has occurred.
 
I wonder if it is worth cutting the plug off and replacing the plug with a "camping" plug and using an adapter as below?

£5 / USD 8 / AUD 10

This has the function of being able to have a slightly longer lead and take the strain off the cable. It would invalidate the warranty though . . . .

1434957918610a


Or you could make your own lead up with a longer tail for about £8 / USD12 / AUD 16 plus wire.

s-l140.jpg


Jeff
 
ChrisMiller said:
Gabe said:
See http://www.qt.com.au/news/mitsubishi-outlander-phev-road-test-review/2534782/ which describes a cable actually going up in a puff of smoke in Queensland.
Looking at the picture in the Queensland newspaper, one difference is the plug that goes into the wall. The cable emerges from the bottom of the UK units (assuming the plug is mounted on a wall), which is normal for any UK plug. The Aussie unit appears to emerge from the back of the plug, producing an immediate 90 degree kink due to the weight of the control box, and this is where the fault has occurred.

The actual fault, as displayed in the picture, is at the gland, where the cable enters the unit. It is not at the socket end.

Our Aussie external sockets face downwards (weather-proofing), so in my case, it is a straight-line out from the wall-socket to the plug, thence to the unit. If it is in a garage, it would be a wall socket of which outlet is perpendicular to the wall, so yes, there is a possibility of a kink at both ends -one at the mains-socket / plug end, and another at the gland-end where the cable enters the unit.

However, you will note that when you unplug the unit, you hold on to the body, causing the cord to bend at the site where the cord enters the body of the unit due to the weight of the plug. It is my theory that constant flexing of the cable at this point causes the strands of cable to start breaking off causing arcing which eventually breaks the inner insulation and finally the outer rubber sheath. I think the cable requires reinforcement at the place where it enters the body, similar to electric irons and laptop power supplies.

Gabe.
 
After a couple of emails, it transpires that the dealer does not have a part number for the Australian-version 15A charger unit, to order a replacement from Mitsubishi. Unbelievable! :eek:
 
At long last, got an email from dealer requesting the odometer reading so that they could place an order for the warranty replacement of the unit. FWIW, its done 26,775kms 'til date. I'm looking forward to the replacement unit, which I intend keeping as a semi-permanent feature on the external wall so that it doesn't (hopefully) suffer the same fault again.

In addition, :idea: I'll source some rubber tubing, slit it and fix it at the gland with gaffer tape to stop the cable bending on disconnection, when I need to take it with me camping or on a longer trip.

Hope it arrives soon as I've started suffering from electricity withdrawal :x symptoms.
 
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