Rear Transaxle Judder

[Neverfuel]

The handbrake is also required in the sequence to change user settings in the menu. Go figure.. :?

Also to do the parallel hybrid test after replacing the seals in the front transaxle if not using a MUT III, I think I read somewhere.

 

[gwatpe]

A bit off topic, but like the hazard button press in the reset of wifi.

 

[deskry]

OK let’s go back to my original Post some months ago now. My problem has continued and I have discussed it also on the SPEAKEV Forum. See https://speakev.com/threads/help-rear-axle-transmission-noise-from-the-phev.10663/
As narrated on the above Forum, I took the car to my local Mitsubishi Dealer near Salisbury and hopefully will get a response to the Technical fault report they have sent up the Mitsubishi “Chain” explaining the symptoms of my problem.
If you don’t read the SPEAKEV post, then my problem in summary is an issue which occurs about once a week and I drive the car nearly every day, mostly on battery short journeys with about one journey a week requiring full Parallel ICU mode and once every four to six weeks journeys that use up most of my fuel tank. The majority (99.9%) of the transmission clunks happen after a reversing manoeuvre, particularly a reverse down my home driveway back to my garage and Charging Post. Sometimes when the “cul-de-sac” leading to my house doesn’t have room for me to turn to reverse into my drive due to parked cars, I have to reverse some 40 meters down that to get to my 20 meter drive way, all on a slight downward slope. Therefore I am not having to use the throttle at all; it’s all on the foot brake resisting the “Crawl/Creep“ plus Gravity motion until I have to stop. Sometimes this can be a bit jerky unless I am very light on the foot break. I can usually tell when I am going to get this “Clunk and Judder” by how smoothly I have been able to control the reverse down the driveway. It doesn’t matter what I do once halted on the foot brake. Put the joystick to N, press P button or Power Off directly from “R”, if it is going to “Clunk” it will “Clunk”. It has also happened a few times in car parks in Salisbury, my local town, all after “Parking” from Reversing into a space and once it did it going from R to D while maneuvering. It has not happened in normal driving, even when I go to Neutral and hand break at some long wait traffic Lights. I did a 1500 mile, 11 day trip to Scotland (North Uist in the Outer Hebrides) in late August (annual fishing trip) and home to Wiltshire via family visits in Edinburgh. It did not happen once the whole time and I only got to charge the car twice during those 1500 miles. Lochmaddy Harbour car park now has a CYC post. Recently I have taken to easing the car back on the foot break in Neutral on my driveway, once on the slope after a very short distance in Reverse power. I lose the Reversing Camera, but use the garden shrubbery as a reference mark that I level my offside Door Mirror with to stop a safe distance from the garage door within reach of the Power cable. I will post the outcome of the Mitsubishi report when I get it. This is not I problem I am going to give up on! The Car was registered 31 Dec 14, so the clock is ticking towards Warranty run-out.

 

[Regulo]

Didn't we get a 3-year warranty? I hope it's not going to take another 2 years to get your problem sorted. And I sincerely hope it is.

 

[deskry]

If this was all happening in the US of A and not UK/Europe I would be more confident. Read Motoring Section of the Sunday Times yesterday! My Car was ex-demo model bought through CCR Motors Melksham, but was from CCR Cheltenham as an ex Demo car with 2,900 miles on the clock, 5 months old. (GX4H) Light Blue Metallic. No particular complaints except for this transmission bug that seems to strike randomly every week. My theories are that it has something to do with Hold/Crawl mode in Reverse when halted sometimes needing resetting when disengaging from Reverse into Neutral, Drive or Park. It feels like the Rear Diff is being "walloped" by the Electric Motor "kicking-back" when "Reverse" is changed to another mode. Trying to explain this to the Service Staff at either CCR Melksham or Mitsubishi Salisbury was impossible although the Mechanic was more receptive at Salisbury. I was able to demo the effect to my wife by chance when on one occasion returning to our home I got her to stay behind while I parked up and it was clearly audible to her standing near the car. So now she won't drive it until sorted/explained! Fortunately she has her own car, a Lancer. So frankly unless I can get a Mechanic to witness it or Mitsubishi have records on this from other countries, I am not confident of a fix in 2 years or 4 years if its part of the Hybrid transmission.

 

[greendwarf]

To go back to the OP - he seems to be describing the effect you get from have the hand brake on i.e. motors still trying to move the car (forwards or back) but physically restrained when you go to Neutral. The result is the car is "released" and rocks backwards or forwards on the suspension. Whereas, of course, as described, if you are holding the car on the foot brake then Drive is already disconnected and nothing happens when you go into N.

I get this quite a lot when I put the handbrake on first (e.g. at traffic lights etc.) before disengaging D - which is how I would have driven geared cars for the last 50 years. :lol:

Again is this what you are describing?

 

[deskry]

I received a response from Mitsubishi Salisbury regarding their technical query up the Mitsubishi Chain. The response was quote ‘‘We have heard this on most PHEV’s that we have driven its just the motors changing direction, it depends what torsional stress is applied to the motor during the change of direction. This is not a fault or anything to be concerned about.’’

OK I will learn to live with it.

 

[Tipper]

I experienced a 'thump' from the rear transmission when I got a little confused with the joystick due to me pushing when I should have been pulling! Only the once but it has made me more careful with the drive selection!

I don't bother now with selecting neutral when parking but just push the P button and pull on the handbrake, then Stop. I know stop has the same effect but like to press P...so I'm in control. Old habit from previous auto cars.

I note mention of a 3-year warranty above, they all now have 5-year warranty so may be worth pressing your dealer for this. Interestingly this is only confirmed by a sticker in the service book and the dates filled in are still at 3 years, but my dealer has confirmed 5 years.

 

[deskry]

The 5 year warranty covering the whole Car started in 2015 (15 Reg). Mine is a 64 Reg so is 5 years only on the parts related to the Hybrid system (Batteries, Motors, E-Transmission etc, but not the ICU an those parts that are common to all Outlanders which is 3 Years (incl the Mitsubishi First break down service). I will check if they are allowing pre 2015 PHEVs to be upgraded to 5 years but it would be unusual if they are.