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Can we see the total run time of the ICE somewhere via OBD?

Will try. Also it doesn't work on my older LG with Android 4.1.2, which I have in my car.

Downloaded and tested it today. Thanks, it's great to finally have an estimated Ø kWh/100 km The timer (Runtime) starts at 1:00:00 on my phone, btw.....

Hope this helps It shows two options. With any luck, you would just have to press the same buttons as me in the video, even if they are in a different language. https://youtu.be/5TCMFg4aNR4

Did you manage to change it to English? If you still looking for the right buttons to press, I could post a short video.

Here's how I did it: http://www.myoutlanderphev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=548&hilit=LED&start=432 P.s.: Sorry, I misread, thought you ment the DRL.....

I used a "always live" terminal in the fusebox (lefthand steering, under the dashboard) and a cable from that fuse to the cigarette fuse terminal to give all lighter socets a permanent current. I can take and post a pic of it later if you'd like.

You're close. But it's the generator that does the starting. The drive motor is always connected to the wheels, so it could not be used to start the ICE in a stationary situation.

anko, thats what I mean. AFAIK the LEV are ratet to a max. of only 6C! For a reasonable battery life expecancy you'd wanna stay away from that as often and as far as possible.

The battery also is stressed by high discharge currents. So be gentle with the right foot and your battery will live a lot longer.

Yes, everything is fine with that. With EvBatMon I found out, that the basic consumption of the PHEV is 300 Watts when the HV system is running. A 300W loss in translation (AC to DC, plus a higher Voltage) is in fact a VERY low house number compared to most all EVs on the market...!

It's strange, he always does that (charging to 103-105% SOC). I still get 60km of EV-range, saturdays when I drive (country roads) to the shooting range and back, incl. a steep climb out of a gravel pit.... Very happy with my outi

Tack så mycket. Now I have to find out, why it's not working for me and my Outi :(

Hej nahoj56 Could you upload full resolution pics of the modification to a pic host like postimg and share the links? I'd love to have a closer look and find a way to modify one of my original keys.

Initially it draws 4.5 kW but when the heating elements are hot, it "drops" down to 3.8 kW for the rest of the heating periode. The charger can compensate a max. of 3.3 kW

- Yes, the Timer on/off button in the APP's start screen can be used to manually start and stop charging - solar panel users can use a wall charger which dynamicaly regulates the charging current via PWM according to a control voltage from the panels. I bought a second hand charger ICCB board...

With Li-batterys the voltage drop under high output is much higher at a lower SOC. For example: When you draw 50kW at 90% SOC the cell voltage will for that short time drop let's say 0.3 V (each cell!) at 30% SOC the drop will be at least twice as high, 0.6 V

- Outi's max intake is 3.3kW (14.4 - 14.6 Amps), even at PWM wide open (32 Amps) - The factory ICCB's PWM-setting cannot be altered - I bought an EV-Charger PCB board second hand for >EUR 100 and installed the factory ICCB's cable, no prob - brand new EV-charger PCB nowadays cost less than £50

105.5% real State of Charge with 38.4Ah battery SOC I'm happy with this after 23500 km

Plenty here in Switzerland See this post only a rel. "small" pass: http://www.myoutlanderphev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=2135&start=30 Also keep in mind: Charging by going downhill was with twice the power of a chademo...!