False Advertising - Class Action Lawsuit

[PJmacgee]

Speaking of false advertising, Mitsubishi continues to advertise "up to $7500 in federal EV incentives" (US) when they know damn well that ship has sailed. The made-in-Japan PHEV hasn't qualified for that in MONTHS now, and probably never will again. Yet it's still plastered all over their website and emails...

As for gripes about the PHEV, I am also disappointed that "EV mode" gets ignored as much as it does, for stupid stuff. Sure, if you floor the GO pedal, I want the engine to fire up and give me max power. But if I make one little adjustment to the hvac...and then the engine fires up...wtf?? Obviously many of us hoped it would act more like a BEV with range extender, but alas, it's still just a Hybrid for better and worse, and it does what it wants.

FWIW there is a "trick" (described on this website and elsewhere) that works most of the time, to keep it in EV mode, especially helpful for short trips. Power w/ no brake (ACC mode) > EV Mode > Power with brake (on/Ready) > Drive...don't adjust regen or hvac

 

[Tai626]

A Mitsubishi dealer in Los Angeles ad for $7500…

The fine print is leasing from Santander. Probably the Santander would give you some discount because when they got the car back after 39months, the $4000 fed tax is real to sell to next customer as a certified pre owned.

I am holding MY2018 to trade in for the MY2023 in 2026

Tai

 

[LowOnCash]

The go to response. NO!!!! I wanted the car advertised that can be driven around town on most trips electric and then driven on longer trips with gas. It is quite obvious the limitations and extreme costs of an ev. If the Outlander works as it should, I could handle most of my driving as an ev without limiting my range.

I am actually purchasing an ev now because of this flaw.

Hello - Be careful which EV you buy, years ago in error I bought an I-Pace and was lucky to get 125-140 miles in winter form their advertised 300 mile EV. We now own two EV6 Kia's, both are RWD and in summer I get a real 325 miles. Last winter I still averaged 3.8-3.9 mile per kilowatt and managed 250-270 miles per charge with its 77kw battery pack. Kia and Hyundai have a lock on economical EV's. In addition Tech-Wise they have everything I can't hardly drive any more without steering assist I love it so much LOL All for only $53k USA.

Regards - Mike

 

[rvdlh]

Given that this is normal behaviour for any PHEV, I doubt whether you will get much further than wasting time and effort. It will end in "you should have researched your purchase better" Due Diligence, I believe it is called.
Your first sentence shows that you do not understand the design - A plug in hybrid is NOT sequential. The ICE and electric drive are integrated and will drive the car together for best efficiency under the circumstances. The buttons Eco, Save, Charge and EV will influence the bias, not the basic technology.

Sadly, I am one of those people who feel ripped off with this vehicle. I have owned a PHEV (2018 Honda Clarity) for five years and I love it. I live in Duluth, MN, USA which is an extremely cold place (snows six months in the year) and except for exceptionally cold days (where the temperature is lower than about -20F), my ICE engine does NOT come on. With the Outlander, it comes on even with temps in the 40s and I cannot drive in pure EV mode most of the time. So, I basically bought a gas guzzler while being told it would exhibit PHEV behavior where the ICE engine does not come on until the battery is low.

 

[PJmacgee]

With the Outlander, it comes on even with temps in the 40s and I cannot drive in pure EV mode most of the time.

Are you using the "trick" described a few posts ago? That allows you drive without ever starting the ICE, almost indefinitely. Down to teens or 20s (F), and as long as you don't ask for max power accelerating all the time, or deplete the battery.

 

[Hasenphever]

Sadly, I am one of those people who feel ripped off with this vehicle. I have owned a PHEV (2018 Honda Clarity) for five years and I love it. I live in Duluth, MN, USA which is an extremely cold place (snows six months in the year) and except for exceptionally cold days (where the temperature is lower than about -20F), my ICE engine does NOT come on. With the Outlander, it comes on even with temps in the 40s and I cannot drive in pure EV mode most of the time. So, I basically bought a gas guzzler while being told it would exhibit PHEV behavior where the ICE engine does not come on until the battery is low.

Your experiences are unfortunate and I can see the frustration from it.

All I have to say is that I have a different experience through an Ottawa winter. It operated in EV mode most of the time. I think I averaged 5.8L/100km which is about 42 MPG in the winter on winter tires that includes a 4-day road trip through Vermont, Mass, and New Hampshire on the highways representing about 1/3 of that winter mileage. I'm quite happy with it.

 

[jaapv]

Given that this is normal behaviour for any PHEV, I doubt whether you will get much further than wasting time and effort. It will end in "you should have researched your purchase better" Due Diligence, I believe it is called.
Your first sentence shows that you do not understand the design - A plug in hybrid is NOT sequential. The ICE and electric drive are integrated and will drive the car together for best efficiency under the circumstances. The buttons Eco, Save, Charge and EV will influence the bias, not the basic technology.

Sadly, I am one of those people who feel ripped off with this vehicle. I have owned a PHEV (2018 Honda Clarity) for five years and I love it. I live in Duluth, MN, USA which is an extremely cold place (snows six months in the year) and except for exceptionally cold days (where the temperature is lower than about -20F), my ICE engine does NOT come on. With the Outlander, it comes on even with temps in the 40s and I cannot drive in pure EV mode most of the time. So, I basically bought a gas guzzler while being told it would exhibit PHEV behavior where the ICE engine does not come on until the battery is low.

Unfortunately pure EV driving is not what PHEVs are for - they are designed to switch between hybrid and EV. The precise switching points and parameters for behaviour vary per model and brand. It is up to the customer to buy the model that fits his needs best.

 

[LowOnCash]

I tend to disagree, the reason I bought my Outlander is because unlike many other Phev's the Outlander is not only a real EV but a 4WD EV. Not only that I have the option of regarding without even stopping the car.

I live in rural area and I get 50+ miles of pure EV driving just as I would with my EV6. It's a 22 miles round trip to town and back so I go two days between charging. When a business trip comes up, I throw my stuff in the back and head out no pre-planning and worries about charging stations like I would on my EV6. It's the best of both worlds. I've had a PHEV since 2013, Volts Cadillac ELR's, I-3 and even a Panamera Plug in.

Regards - Mike

 

[vancouverboy]

I tend to disagree, the reason I bought my Outlander is because unlike many other Phev's the Outlander is not only a real EV but a 4WD EV. Not only that I have the option of regarding without even stopping the car.

I live in rural area and I get 50+ miles of pure EV driving just as I would with my EV6. It's a 22 miles round trip to town and back so I go two days between charging. When a business trip comes up, I throw my stuff in the back and head out no pre-planning and worries about charging stations like I would on my EV6. It's the best of both worlds. I've had a PHEV since 2013, Volts Cadillac ELR's, I-3 and even a Panamera Plug in.

Regards - Mike

I am with you. When I bought my Outlander the big selling feature was that it had an EV mode. For the first 2 years it was great as I rarely needed to use gas at all for my 30 min commute, except for the odd day where I had to run extra errands. Usually I would burn off a tank every 3 months, sometimes a bit more in winter but that was about it.

Now I live even closer to work (a 5 min drive) and live at the top of a mountain. But when the temp is below 10 degrees Celsius the ICE kicks in as soon as I go over 20km/h, regardless if the AC or heat is on, even downhill, and runs for about 3 minutes, which is about when I reach the bottom of the hill. Since the battery is already full it can't even store that energy, so it is completely wasted fuel. Unless I have errands to do, when I get home I usually still have 80% of my battery left.

I've complained to my dealer about this for the last 3 years and they respond like I'm crazy or that I drive too aggressively. I really don't think they have a clue how their own car works to be honest.

I'm going to try the trick noted above to see if that works, but it's really idiotic that I have to trick the car into doing something when there is already a button on the console that is supposed to do what I want.

 

[mbasjm]

I also live in Vancouver, I find it annoying when the ICE kicks in for 5-6 minutes on my 8-minute drive to take my daughter to school. Then I park the car, walk the dog at the park across the street, and when I return the ICE kicks in AGAIN.

 

[kpetrov]

I am with you. When I bought my Outlander the big selling feature was that it had an EV mode. For the first 2 years it was great as I rarely needed to use gas at all for my 30 min commute, except for the odd day where I had to run extra errands. Usually I would burn off a tank every 3 months, sometimes a bit more in winter but that was about it.

Now I live even closer to work (a 5 min drive) and live at the top of a mountain. But when the temp is below 10 degrees Celsius the ICE kicks in as soon as I go over 20km/h, regardless if the AC or heat is on, even downhill, and runs for about 3 minutes, which is about when I reach the bottom of the hill. Since the battery is already full it can't even store that energy, so it is completely wasted fuel. Unless I have errands to do, when I get home I usually still have 80% of my battery left.

I've complained to my dealer about this for the last 3 years and they respond like I'm crazy or that I drive too aggressively. I really don't think they have a clue how their own car works to be honest.

I'm going to try the trick noted above to see if that works, but it's really idiotic that I have to trick the car into doing something when there is already a button on the console that is supposed to do what I want.

Doing an DBCAM will ease your pain and the engine will run less and definitely at much lower temperature.

If you live on top of a hill don't fully charge the battery. Set an timer to stop charging few hours earlier.

 

[kinetix]

Doing an DBCAM will ease your pain and the engine will run less and definitely at much lower temperature.

If you live on top of a hill don't fully charge the battery. Set an timer to stop charging few hours earlier.

English, please? I don't have a DBCAM to DBCAM my DBCAM with. No idea what this means.

 

[TTDave]

I am with you. When I bought my Outlander the big selling feature was that it had an EV mode. For the first 2 years it was great as I rarely needed to use gas at all for my 30 min commute, except for the odd day where I had to run extra errands. Usually I would burn off a tank every 3 months, sometimes a bit more in winter but that was about it.

Now I live even closer to work (a 5 min drive) and live at the top of a mountain. But when the temp is below 10 degrees Celsius the ICE kicks in as soon as I go over 20km/h, regardless if the AC or heat is on, even downhill, and runs for about 3 minutes, which is about when I reach the bottom of the hill. Since the battery is already full it can't even store that energy, so it is completely wasted fuel. Unless I have errands to do, when I get home I usually still have 80% of my battery left.

I've complained to my dealer about this for the last 3 years and they respond like I'm crazy or that I drive too aggressively. I really don't think they have a clue how their own car works to be honest.

I'm going to try the trick noted above to see if that works, but it's really idiotic that I have to trick the car into doing something when there is already a button on the console that is supposed to do what I want.

Make sure when you start the vehicle it is in ECO mode. 10 degrees celcius is not even cold.

 

[manx57]

Just sold mine, it does not do what it says on the tin as they say.... for me I rekoned I got about 40mpg, the onboard computer reading is nonsense.
I have bought a BMW i3 rex now that is economical..

 

[vancouverboy]

Make sure when you start the vehicle it is in ECO mode. 10 degrees celcius is not even cold.

That doesn't really seem to matter either. I've tried disabling everything to try to avoid having the engine kick in. Once I even drove it down the block at <10km/h until I could coast down the hill, which did actually work but as soon as I even touched the gas pedal to try to maintain my speed around a corner the engine kicked in so it really didn't solve anything

I also tried that trick described above, but I can't enable EV mode when only ACC mode is on. Maybe that trick only works on older or newer models.

 

[vancouverboy]

I also live in Vancouver, I find it annoying when the ICE kicks in for 5-6 minutes on my 8-minute drive to take my daughter to school. Then I park the car, walk the dog at the park across the street, and when I return the ICE kicks in AGAIN.

Yes, I drop my son off at daycare on my way to work and have to stop for about 30seconds while I take him inside and the ICE starts up again when I go back out. I suppose I could leave the car running, but I don't like doing that when my car is out of sight.

 

[nrayanov]

ACC turns off EV-only mode, at least in the old generation. Another thing to keep in mind on the new PHEV is that the engine will fire if the battery is above 80% and you want to use the regen breaking, e.g., anything different from B0, so the recommendation would be to:
1. Use EV mode, no ACC.
2. Use ECO mode.
3. Use a heated steering wheel and seats instead of heating or HVAC. Turning on the HVAC or the heating in cold temperatures, especially if the car has been left outside, will most likely result in the engine firing up.

My 2020 GT rarely fires the engine if I follow the advice above, even in a -5 C or - 10 C environment.

 

[craze1234]

Interesting to see this thread still has legs. An update on mine - I still hate it. Moving on, I just made the dumbest decision of my life and gave Mitsubishi a second chance. I bought a hybrid heat pump/furnace setup with a Mitsubishi heat pump. Shockingly, no matter how the settings are changed, it only runs the furnace in cold weather despite being cold climate capable.

The installer is headed to a Mitsubishi conference with a list of customers with the same complaint. They will be seeking refunds because (this may sound familiar) the heat pumps don't work as advertised.

Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me

 

[Clovi]

I am prepared to be shouted down by the fan club but I really feel like I have been sold a bill of goods with this vehicle. It is advertised as a car that can be driven on electric for 20 miles and THEN driven on gas. If you live in a northern climate, this is just not the case. If I lived in Florida, I would love this car. I love it in the summer.

In New York state, this is a gas car for 6 months of the year. It is just now occasionally starting to run on battery in the first five minutes of driving. It starts the engine with no cabin heating turned on (the system off completely), the EV button set before moving and in ECO mode. I know this is a frustration for many because I see it on this forum. This is just not right. I bought this car for the savings through electricity vs. gas and for the environmental benefit. I am greatly disappointed by how much I have unnecessarily polluted with this car and I am very disappointed by how much money I am now wasting from paying for gas vs electricity I generate from solar panels.

I think that enough people have this issue that we should hold Mitsubishi accountable. Am I crazy that all they would need to do if they are really concerned about cold engine starts is wait until the battery is at say 20% and then start the engine? This car can drive on all battery. It has good torque if you need to speed up quickly. Why not wait until you might actually need the engine to start it? But they don't care. Mitsubishi really stinks. Anybody else want to hold them accountable or do we just want to make excuses for them and allow them (and all other companies that sell PHEVs that seem to do the same in the cold) to rip us off?

I think this is a waste of time and money.
I live in the north of the state of Virginia, USA.
Today we woke up to a temperature of 26 F. (-3 C).
Using the PHEV on spring, summer and fall, ICE is basically not used in this car.
My commute is 16 Miles (~26 KM). The EV button gives priority to EV. I normally use it. Mitsubishi never said the car would run exclusively as an EV.
Today I got 140MPG (~60 km/l), because the ICE worked sometimes to heat up the batteries. This is normal. And besides, what is the problem? This vehicle is a PHEV, not an EV. I've had an EV for over 10 years. It's an Mutsu IMEV (125K miles). My wife and I share both, it depends where we go.
BTW, this is personal, but I'm not here to save the planet, like Greta Tunberg. I just want to save a little money and have a reliable 4WD vehicle.
Think carefully before you actually start it.

Cheers,

 

[karl]

Stupid question, but don't you have the EV-mode button? Without it, it seems to expect that you will drive more than a couple of minutes and doesn't just covert all the precious EV range to cabin temperature.

The defrost mode and auto-cruise overrides EV-mode for some reason - probably security related, but other than that it does what it promises on my car.

I'm in Sweden so we have pretty cold winters. The EV range in the winter is half of the advertised range but that's expected and well understood.