Potential Buyer Needs Reassurance

[ElectricPaul]

Evening all

Heading says it all. I've had two test drives - couple of hours each of mixed driving including fast A-road, dual carriageway and rough country B & C-roads. Very impressed with the ride, which isn't too difficult because my current wheels are a Subaru Forester XT 2.0 Direct Injection Turbo. The Phev reminds me of my 15 years with older petrol Volvo estates which I would describe as 'wafters'. The Phev is better of course, having a more controlled ride and is faster.

One of my concerns is the common one regarding the infotainment/sat nav unit. I've only been able to drive the GX3h+ (I intend to buy a run-out GX4h 2016 model) so have not been able to try the 'communications system'. How bad is it and is it true that you can't input the whole postcode into the sat nav destination - only 4 digits? If so, that would be remarkably stupid in a vehicle oozing technology - it reminds me of Subarus of the past which always had audio systems 10 years out of date. At least Subaru have come into the 21st century now and fit very good touch screen infotainment systems. I don't listen to a lot of music but do use sat nav a lot. If the unit is that bad it may be a deal breaker. It certainly looks very dated, but that doesn't bother me as long as it works reasonably well - all in the eye of the beholder of course!

Another concern is battery life and reliability of the car generally. Five of my last six cars have been Japanese - the only non-Japanese was a Freelander 2 - all bought new except for a Subaru bought at 3 years old and sold at 7 years old. My experience of brands has been: Honda (2) Good; Nissan (1) Average; Subaru (2) Excellent; Land Rover(1) Dreadful. I don't expect Subaru levels of reliability/build quality, but are Mitsubishi in general, and the Phev in particular, on a par with Nissan or Honda? I am particularly intolerant of squeaks and rattles. My test car was fine but had only covered 4,000 miles. Does the Phev develop any nasty creaks and groans after a while?

Finally, what about depreciation? I intend to buy a Mitsubishi management special to get rid of some of the initial hit you take when buying any new car. However, talking to my local dealer I got the impression that depreciation in the first couple of years is horrendous - he was quite open about this to the extent that I actually asked him if he was trying to talk me out of buying one! What are people's experiences on here? Although I imagine members of this forum have not actually sold their Phevs which is why they're on here.

Apologies if the topics have already been covered. I have had a look at a few posts but don't really know my way around yet and probably need to make a decision fairly quickly as Mitsubishi are running out of 2016 Phevs in order to make rom for the 2017 model. Incidentally, I think I would rather have a cash saving than the new features - electronic parking brake, LED fog lights, Blind Spot warning etc. Adaptive cruise control and EV button. Let me know if anyone differs. Also, I am a non-business private driver.

Thanks

 

[Regulo]

Hi, ElectricPaul,

I would say the analogy with older Volvos is quite right, I've had three! As far as day-to-day use goes, it's better than most, and no worse than the rest. It is what it is, if you drive shortish distances you'll be rewarded with phenomenal mileage figures. Longer runs will return 35 to 40 mpg - not outrageously bad for a car of this size. I've had my 2014 GX4 from new, no squeaks or rattles to annoy up to now. On the rare occasions I've had to use it, the sat nav seems easy enough, although it seems geared to addresses, rather than postcodes. It has always got me where I needed to be. Some don't like Mrs SatNav's voice, and there's no option to change it - a minor niggle. And that really sums it up, niggles are what make or break the car. If you can live with it "out of the box" you'll be fine. One thing I have found is that I am now a much more relaxed driver, the smoothness somehow encourages a lighter style of driving. It can shift when necessary, with a bit of harshness from the engine, IMO. It may be me, but the MMCS seems over-complicated, with too many screens trying to give too much info. But I just set them to what I need to know and leave it alone. It's like a washing machine - 30 programmes, but you rarely use more than 3! I'm not a big music nut, but it does the basics OK, runs a SD card with my choices perfectly well. What seems to let it down is the bluetooth phone linking - many on here have been extremely disappointed. Personally, I haven't tried it, and don't want to.

I don't know about depreciation, I've no intention of changing mine, I'm very happy with it.

Hope you settle your mind, let us know what you decide.

 

[AndyInOz]

Hi, ElectricPaul, like Regulo, I have a 2014 model.

So far no squeaks or rattles either, however mine is very low mileage, I'd expect it to be worse if it had done 100,000 over rough roads.

Somehow, I've avoided all the blutooth etc. problems. My phone connects to the car when I get in, and calls are handled fine.

Similarly, I have a traffic app on the phone, which uses wi-fi to get traffic updates from transmitters on traffic lights. That works flawlessly.

I suspect that some people are using the Mitsubishi app on their phone, which interferes with other comms, I don't do that. I connect to the car at home via a tablet (well, I did. Currently have wi-fi disabled in the car, didn't get enough use out of it, and it opens up an extra attack vector for car thieves).

Re the price drop. I think that it is typical to say that a new car loses 20% when you drive it off the lot.

I bought mine second-hand, ex lease, at twelve months old, 8,500 on the clock and paid approximately two-thirds of the new price.

Hopefully that helps.

Battery wise, mine seems to be performing well, I do a daily round trip of approximately 13km, and recharge twice per week (Wednesday and Sunday).



Andy

 

[Steel188]

I am a business driver and my car will pass 30,000 miles before it's 1st birthday in a few weeks and I have no squeaks and rattles either.

Personally, I plumped for the 3h+ model as I didn't want leather seats and much prefer to use my Garmin Sat Nav as it's far more accurate, faster, clearer and after the initial purchase, free to upgrade 4 times a year for as long as I keep the unit.

The radio reception can be poor, but the sound quality is generally good for ClassicFM and Radio 4. My iPhone 6S is updated as necessary and always pairs with the car first time but I use an app called WiFi Priority to stop my phone talking to the car, which stops all the issues others have mentioned elsewhere. When I do connect to the car to set up pre heating or cooling, according to the season, I then use this app straight after to avoid any issues.

Long days behind the wheel are not a chore, except for having to stop for fuel so often due to the small tank, which doesn't last long at 35 mpg in an 1800Kg brick moving at a Sat Nav accurate 70mph. But it is quiet and very comfortable with an excellent view over the bonnet.

My car has the standard cruise control which works very well and the steering wheel buttons are pretty intuitive.

One issue I do have is that while the buttons on the dash and steering wheel are all individually illuminated and easy to read, the mass of buttons on the drivers door has only the faintest glow in the drivers window button, all the others are completely dark. Also, in a £35,000+ car it is unforgivable that only the drivers window has one shot open and close. The others require you to keep your finger on the button all the way down or up.

 

[jaapv]

I've got 75.000 Km on the clock and the car still drives the way it did when I bought it new. It had one software glitch and a broken interior light bulb.
I come from Jaguar and big Volvos before that and have no real complaints, only niggles like others mention, but then, I would probably have them with any car. To me it is a very good car with an exceedingly smooth ride and no complaints worth mentioning. Totally reliable. It may be a bit utilitarian, but isn't that the nature of a SUV like this? My wife thinks it is the best thing since sliced bread.

 

[ElectricPaul]

Thanks everyone for speedy and helpful replies.

Couple of follow up questions:
Any ideas on a fair target price for a 2016(16) GX4h with say 2,000 to 8,000 miles on the clock?

Are the motorway charging points all relatively expensive now? Most of my use would be shortish journeys of under 25 miles, occasional journeys of 100 to 120 miles and maybe 2 or 3 longer motorway trips a year. I'm not a business user which presumably would have a bearing on what would be the best charging regime for me. Nearly all of my longer holiday trips are done in a camper van which means my driver profile is quite different to your typical high-mile business user. Should I just grin and bear the petrol use on longer journeys knowing that much of the rest of the time I will be in EV mode?

 

[Regulo]

Can't help on price, but your pattern of use matches mine. On your 100 to 120 mile journey, you will do 20 miles or so on battery (assuming a full charge to start). Reckon on 60-65mpg for those. I don't think the motorway charging points are an economic proposition, frankly. Take 30 minutes out of your journey, then use what you've put into the battery in about 15 miles at motorway speeds! Add in the cost, plus the price of a charging lead (I think a type 2 to type 1) and it just doesn't make any sense. Charge at home, either with the supplied charger (about 5hours) or a dedicated charger installation (about 3 and a half hours).

 

[ElectricPaul]

Can't help on price, but your pattern of use matches mine. On your 100 to 120 mile journey, you will do 20 miles or so on battery (assuming a full charge to start). Reckon on 60-65mpg for those. I don't think the motorway charging points are an economic proposition, frankly. Take 30 minutes out of your journey, then use what you've put into the battery in about 15 miles at motorway speeds! Add in the cost, plus the price of a charging lead (I think a type 2 to type 1) and it just doesn't make any sense. Charge at home, either with the supplied charger (about 5hours) or a dedicated charger installation (about 3 and a half hours).

Thanks for that Ray.

I didn't realise you had to buy a lead for Mway charging. How much are they? Would probably take your advice though and not bother.

Paul

 

[jaapv]

Thanks everyone for speedy and helpful replies.

Couple of follow up questions:
Any ideas on a fair target price for a 2016(16) GX4h with say 2,000 to 8,000 miles on the clock?

Are the motorway charging points all relatively expensive now? Most of my use would be shortish journeys of under 25 miles, occasional journeys of 100 to 120 miles and maybe 2 or 3 longer motorway trips a year. I'm not a business user which presumably would have a bearing on what would be the best charging regime for me. Nearly all of my longer holiday trips are done in a camper van which means my driver profile is quite different to your typical high-mile business user. Should I just grin and bear the petrol use on longer journeys knowing that much of the rest of the time I will be in EV mode?

That sounds like an ideal pattern of use. If you have to pay commercial prices at chargers, it is not worth it to bother. Charge at home, at work and at free chargepoints. If you get a non-tethered charger at home, you can use the cable for other chargepoints

 

[Regulo]

Re; charging leads. As I've never bothered with them, I am relying on the experience of others. If I understand it correctly, public chargers use type 2 connectors, but the PHEV uses type 1. So you need a type 2 to type 1 lead in the boot to use them. As Jaapv says, if you really want to use them, get a non-tethered charge station installed, which will then come with a separate type 2 to type 1 lead. Can those with more experience confirm that's right, please?

 

[JSC]

Re; charging leads. As I've never bothered with them, I am relying on the experience of others. If I understand it correctly, public chargers use type 2 connectors, but the PHEV uses type 1. So you need a type 2 to type 1 lead in the boot to use them. As Jaapv says, if you really want to use them, get a non-tethered charge station installed, which will then come with a separate type 2 to type 1 lead. Can those with more experience confirm that's right, please?

I was going down this route, but PodPoint told me that if I bought a non-tethered charge station from them I'd have to buy the cable in addition so it made more sense to buy the tethered version (same price and more convenient for unplugging and plugging in on cold dark mornings and evenings).

I do use street chargers and have bought a cable (type 2 to type 1 as mentioned). it cost about £100 so it's only worth buying if you're going to use it a lot ( I use mine 2 or 3 times a week).

The rapid chargers at motorway services have a cable as they use a different socket on the car to provide a lot more current. However, they currently (if you'll excuse the pun) charge £6 a go to give you about 15 miles range, so I no longer use them

Hope that helps

 

[Steel188]

Can't help on price, but your pattern of use matches mine. On your 100 to 120 mile journey, you will do 20 miles or so on battery (assuming a full charge to start). Reckon on 60-65mpg for those.



When I leave the office with a full charge, it's 4 miles through town and on a national speed limit dual carriageway to the motorway, which use around 1/4 of the charge.

Once up to speed on the motorway, setting my cruise control to Sat Nav accurate 70mph, the battery will be completely flat in less than 10 miles, if I don't hit Save. From then on, cruising at the stated speed will give around 35mpg. I am not prepared to drive at 50mph just to try and get another 10mpg - how do you manage 60-65mpg and 20 miles on battery on a motorway?

 

[Regulo]

Hi, Richard,
I didn't think ElectricPaul meant his 100 to 120 mile trips would be on motorways. Perhaps 60 mpg was a little optimistic on my part, thinking about my fast A-road trips to Norfolk from Essex I do see 52mpg. If the roads permitted slower travel, perhaps 60 mpg would be possible?

 

[RedAdair]

Good Evening.

Just been reading this with interest, as I to I'm thinking of going for the Outlander PHEV and had a 24 hr test drive from my local dealer, as my main object is to cut my fuel bills and running costs down

I need a large car to carry my dogs and live in rural Aberdeen-shire, and have a 80 mile round trip to work every day, mostly of which are twisty A & B roads but would have approx 10 mile dual carriageway. If I use my car (an old 13 year old Suzuki Vitara diesel), or my wife's (Q5 Diesel Auto) I'd average around 36 mpg per trip and its cost me approx £65 p.w on diesel for the Vitara.

As I said, I had a drive of the Outlander and with a full charge, got approx 55mpg from the dealer in Aberdeen to my house which I was impressed by but as I'm doing 80 mile round trip (with the possibility of being able to charge at my work), do you think a PHEV is right for me?

I know its objective and depends on lots of variables but some real world experience and feedback would be appreciated!

 

[Regulo]

So 40 miles each way with a charge at each end? Means about half of each trip on battery, half on petrol. Looks like 45 mpg plus to me. Plus about £1.50 of electric per full charge. If you can't get a charge at work, I think you'll probably be looking at nearer 40 mpg overall. How heavy is your right foot?

 

[RedAdair]

I'd open it up on the dualer and go at 65-70 and some roads Its a 60 but as its mostly twisty roads, its 40ish

 

[Hypermiler]

If you can charge at work, particularly if you can do it for free, and if a lot of your weekend runs around are <20 ish miles then it is definitely worth considering. See if any of your regular destinations (shopping/leisure centres etc) have chargepoints and whether they are free to use. Though you do need to shell out on a cable to use them. Presume getting a chargepoint at home is no problem as that is essential imo.
H