EV Button in new advert

Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV Forum

Help Support Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ian4x4

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 25, 2014
Messages
227
You won't learn much about the latest PHEV from this new advert except he presses the EV button about 2/3rds of the way through the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bL7jEJvJDKU
 
I would rather have an 'I want full power, and I want it NOW!' button rather than the 'works only sometimes' kickdown pedal button.

(Actually flooring the accelerator really fast is more reliable to trigger it than the kickdown is!)
 
PolishPilot said:
I hope it will be available to older models as an upgrade.

I would pay for such upgrade, but I doubt Mitsubishi will go for it

Only hope is Vtech, he did show he can, but he did not made it available for us

I know he made the gas pedal hack, but the real EV + 70kw mode he kept fir himself
 
jaapv said:
That is the Charge button - press it in anticipation of full power.

Yeah but that still doesn't give full power just charge level it can still be very lazy to wind the power needle to 4 o clock and the car really move.

Best method is stamping the pedal fast like you are trying to kill a rat..
 
BobEngineer said:
jaapv said:
That is the Charge button - press it in anticipation of full power.

Yeah but that still doesn't give full power just charge level it can still be very lazy to wind the power needle to 4 o clock and the car really move.

Best method is stamping the pedal fast like you are trying to kill a rat..
Yes, but it prestarts the ICE.
 
BobEngineer said:
jaapv said:
That is the Charge button - press it in anticipation of full power.

Yeah but that still doesn't give full power just charge level it can still be very lazy to wind the power needle to 4 o clock and the car really move.

Best method is stamping the pedal fast like you are trying to kill a rat..
The needle tells you how much power is going to the wheels. You will need to go at least (approx.) 28 km/h to reach the beginning of the white zone (60 kW) and double that speed to reach (almost) the end of it (120 kW). Regardless of what procedure you use.
 
anko said:
BobEngineer said:
jaapv said:
That is the Charge button - press it in anticipation of full power.

Yeah but that still doesn't give full power just charge level it can still be very lazy to wind the power needle to 4 o clock and the car really move.

Best method is stamping the pedal fast like you are trying to kill a rat..
The needle tells you how much power is going to the wheels. You will need to go at least (approx.) 28 km/h to reach the beginning of the white zone (60 kW) and double that speed to reach (almost) the end of it (120 kW). Regardless of what procedure you use.

28km/h? that is 'parked' in my book :D

More like at 100km/h when you go to overtake, sometimes power goes all round the dial almost straight away, but sometimes although the engine starts quickly (that is not the problem) it only goes to like 1/2 to 2/3 the power dial, you keep the pedal hard down and then maybe 5 seconds later you see it go to 3/4 level and then the car starts to speed up properly.

You never know which it is going to be until you do it..

I have adapted my driving to suit it, I leave a longer gap from the vehicle in front, I then floor the pedal, if it goes fast straight away I indicate and pull out to overtake. If it decides to be lazy, I have room to wait until it starts going fast then indicate and pull out. It can be really difficult if people are coming behind you too.

I do miss not being able to select 3rd gear and know for sure it will go fast as soon as I press the pedal in a normal car.
 
BobEngineer said:
28km/h? that is 'parked' in my book :D

More like at 100km/h when you go to overtake, sometimes power goes all round the dial almost straight away, but sometimes although the engine starts quickly (that is not the problem) it only goes to like 1/2 to 2/3 the power dial, you keep the pedal hard down and then maybe 5 seconds later you see it go to 3/4 level and then the car starts to speed up properly.

You never know which it is going to be until you do it..

I have adapted my driving to suit it, I leave a longer gap from the vehicle in front, I then floor the pedal, if it goes fast straight away I indicate and pull out to overtake. If it decides to be lazy, I have room to wait until it starts going fast then indicate and pull out. It can be really difficult if people are coming behind you too.

I do miss not being able to select 3rd gear and know for sure it will go fast as soon as I press the pedal in a normal car.

Pressing the charge button 1 second before overtake (or while waiting for the right moment), it does job for me
 
elm70 said:
BobEngineer said:
28km/h? that is 'parked' in my book :D

More like at 100km/h when you go to overtake, sometimes power goes all round the dial almost straight away, but sometimes although the engine starts quickly (that is not the problem) it only goes to like 1/2 to 2/3 the power dial, you keep the pedal hard down and then maybe 5 seconds later you see it go to 3/4 level and then the car starts to speed up properly.

You never know which it is going to be until you do it..

I have adapted my driving to suit it, I leave a longer gap from the vehicle in front, I then floor the pedal, if it goes fast straight away I indicate and pull out to overtake. If it decides to be lazy, I have room to wait until it starts going fast then indicate and pull out. It can be really difficult if people are coming behind you too.

I do miss not being able to select 3rd gear and know for sure it will go fast as soon as I press the pedal in a normal car.

Pressing the charge button 1 second before overtake (or while waiting for the right moment), it does job for me

ah you see, I knew I got a dud ;)
 
BobEngineer said:
anko said:
jaapv said:
That is the Charge button - press it in anticipation of full power.

The needle tells you how much power is going to the wheels. You will need to go at least (approx.) 28 km/h to reach the beginning of the white zone (60 kW) and double that speed to reach (almost) the end of it (120 kW). Regardless of what procedure you use.

28km/h? that is 'parked' in my book :D

More like at 100km/h when you go to overtake, sometimes power goes all round the dial almost straight away, but sometimes although the engine starts quickly (that is not the problem) it only goes to like 1/2 to 2/3 the power dial, you keep the pedal hard down and then maybe 5 seconds later you see it go to 3/4 level and then the car starts to speed up properly.

You never know which it is going to be until you do it..

I have adapted my driving to suit it, I leave a longer gap from the vehicle in front, I then floor the pedal, if it goes fast straight away I indicate and pull out to overtake. If it decides to be lazy, I have room to wait until it starts going fast then indicate and pull out. It can be really difficult if people are coming behind you too.

I do miss not being able to select 3rd gear and know for sure it will go fast as soon as I press the pedal in a normal car.
It appears to me that you bought the wrong car. The Porsche Cayenne plug-in seems to suit your driving style better. ;)
 
"I do miss not being able to select 3rd gear and know for sure it will go fast as soon as I press the pedal in a normal car.
It appears to me that you bought the wrong car.

The Porsche Cayenne plug-in seems to suit your driving style better. ;)

Indeed yes - miss both the manual gearbox and turbo engine in my old Mazda. Pity the Cayenne didn't fit my budget either.
 
Anyone tried the BMW 2 series Active Tourer PHEV? its power train is a bit different but it has similar range. Has a normal auto box, 134bhp engine and 87bhp motor at rear giving a form of 4 wheel drive. Quick at 0-60 in 6.7 seconds. Most reviews are not too enthusiastic about the ride though. It can run in EV only when the battery has power so I guess has the same issue of the engine having to crank up for fast acceleration.
 
From what I have read about various PHEV or EV cars, apart from a few primarily Battery Driven cars (BMW i3, Tesla, Leaf, etc), they all need the Internal Combustion Engine to fire up to get max acceleration.

Also there is not much acceleration once the battery runs down, and the smaller ICE limits the normal low-ish top speed.

There doesn't seem to be a magic bullet, and its all a compromise, which I think the Outlander does a good job of solving.

By the way have a look at page 13 of this book on EV's.
https://issuu.com/brycheinsltd/docs/evs_and_i3
'Available battery capacity is badly effected by high discharge rate' so if you are looking for continual traffic light sprints get yourself a lightweight auto Internal Combustion vehicle, you will get a higher top speed as well.
 
ian4x4 said:
'Available battery capacity is badly effected by high discharge rate' so if you are looking for continual traffic light sprints get yourself a lightweight auto Internal Combustion vehicle, you will get a higher top speed as well.

Better still I got a lease car! I don't care what the capacity is as long as its reasonable for most the 4 years then I hand it back and its not my problem.
 
Unless the lease company considers it "more than normal wear and tear" and charges you for the value loss...
 
Back
Top