Supplied Charge Lead

[hdasmith]

Hi all,

I got my PHEV in September, and have been typically charging from the supplied 13A charge lead, which has been working fine until recently the lead developed a fault. I traced it back, and found the wire between the control box and plug has a fault. Insulation's fine. I had originally thought it was to do with IP66 socket putting pressure on the cable (the cable is thicker than it needs to be). I went to my dealer and explained the situation. They went to Mitsubishi who came back and said its not covered by warranty because the socket must be at fault, even though their cable is too thick.

I explained the cable thickness again, and therefore a design fault with the lead.

In the mean time, did some more investigation, and the fault is further down the lead than I thought, and therefore cannot be the socket. Went back to the dealer on Monday. I'm still waiting to hear from Mitsubishi.

Does anyone else have experience with faults on this charge lead, or experience with Mitsubishi and warranty claims. This seems very poor to me for a £35,000 car that's new to the market, and new to me.

In hindsight, I shouldn't have given so much detail, but thought I was being helpful and they would appreciate the feedback.

 

[Regulo]

So where exactly is the fault? If it's the wire from the 13A domestic plug to the control box, just change it. The control box opens up (with a bit of persuasion) after you've removed the security-headed screws. Just re-seal it on re-assembly. As Mitsu seem unlikely to replace it anyway, you won't be worrying about the warranty on it, will you?

 

[jaapv]

You are supposed to hang the control box by the supplied cable and hook to the socket to relieve tension on the cable.
Are you sure it is not the plug to the car? It contains a microswitch to activate the control box and the metal lip may bend slightly causing it to fail to engage. Bend it back and the system will function gain.

 

[hdasmith]

So where exactly is the fault? If it's the wire from the 13A domestic plug to the control box, just change it. The control box opens up (with a bit of persuasion) after you've removed the security-headed screws. Just re-seal it on re-assembly. As Mitsu seem unlikely to replace it anyway, you won't be worrying about the warranty on it, will you?

I will do if it comes to it, although likely to try small claims first quite frankly.

 

[hdasmith]

You are supposed to hang the control box by the supplied cable and hook to the socket to relieve tension on the cable.
Are you sure it is not the plug to the car? It contains a microswitch to activate the control box and the metal lip may bend slightly causing it to fail to engage. Bend it back and the system will function gain.

I have bee using the loop to hang the control box, and the fault is not a result of this. If it was, I would expect the fault to be inside the control box, but it clearly is in the flex just above the control box. Shown easily by bending the flex at the appropriate position, you can remake the contact and the LEDs come back. Not safe for use though.

 

[Regulo]

In the mean time, did some more investigation, and the fault is further down the lead than I thought, and therefore cannot be the socket. Went back to the dealer on Monday. I'm still waiting to hear from Mitsubishi.

As this is an integral part of the car, and supplied to enable correct operation of the car, I don't see how Mitsubishi can fail to remedy your situation. Your contract is with your dealer, and it's their responsibility to rectify the situation. Unfortunately, as in many instances in life, once they've got your cash, that's the end of the niceties. You'll have to threaten them with Section 75 of the Sale of Goods Act to get a result I feel. Is it worth the hassle? If you're CERTAIN the lead's the problem, I'd be inclined to rip it apart and change the lead - life's too short.

 

[greendwarf]

You are supposed to hang the control box by the supplied cable and hook to the socket to relieve tension on the cable.
Are you sure it is not the plug to the car? It contains a microswitch to activate the control box and the metal lip may bend slightly causing it to fail to engage. Bend it back and the system will function gain.

I have bee using the loop to hang the control box, and the fault is not a result of this. If it was, I would expect the fault to be inside the control box, but it clearly is in the flex just above the control box. Shown easily by bending the flex at the appropriate position, you can remake the contact and the LEDs come back. Not safe for use though.

This sounds very peculiar - so you're describing an actual break in the cable conductor. I assume this is what you mean by the cable being too thick. I have some sympathy with Mitsu & the dealer, as to break a flex requires quite a lot of "abuse" bending it backwards & forwards repeatedly, which might happen if it has been hauled out of the car by the plug rather than the cord or it being jammed in the boot bent. I don't think I've ever (in over 60 years) come across a "fractured" conductor due to a manufacturing fault but I suppose it is possible.

 

[hdasmith]

It appears that way. when I say the cable is too thick, it's 1.5mm sq which is thicker than normal for 13A cable. I would normally expect 1.25mm sq. I wondered if this difference was causing a pinch on the seal of the weather proofing for the socket. It appears this isn't the problem as the fault is below this.

i don't know what tests are carried out on this kind of cable. Only that when installing 11 and 33kV, the cable is always tested for weaknesses in the conductor. This is probably unfair though as the costs and potential problems are not really comparable.

 

[anko]

You are supposed to hang the control box by the supplied cable and hook to the socket to relieve tension on the cable.
Are you sure it is not the plug to the car? It contains a microswitch to activate the control box and the metal lip may bend slightly causing it to fail to engage. Bend it back and the system will function gain.

I have bee using the loop to hang the control box, and the fault is not a result of this. If it was, I would expect the fault to be inside the control box, but it clearly is in the flex just above the control box. Shown easily by bending the flex at the appropriate position, you can remake the contact and the LEDs come back. Not safe for use though.

This sounds very peculiar - so you're describing an actual break in the cable conductor. I assume this is what you mean by the cable being too thick. I have some sympathy with Mitsu & the dealer, as to break a flex requires quite a lot of "abuse" bending it backwards & forwards repeatedly, which might happen if it has been hauled out of the car by the plug rather than the cord or it being jammed in the boot bent. I don't think I've ever (in over 60 years) come across a "fractured" conductor due to a manufacturing fault but I suppose it is possible.

I cannot confirm this from my own experience, but several months ago I talked to another PHEV owner here in the Netherlands and he said that his (and several other units) was replaced by Mitsubishi because of a conductor failure, resulting from an error in the production process where one of the cables was fastened to tight into the control box.

 

[hdasmith]

That's good to know, thank you.

 

[gwatpe]

I was tired of the really short lead as supplied on the control box and having to hang the box on a cord, so I had mine replaced with yes, a heavy duty 15A plug, now 4m longer, 2.5mm conductor cable. "Orange Circular". The hardest task was to open the control box. Glued as well as tamper screws. The gland was a tight fit for the new cable, but no mods needed. The conductors were terminated with crimp lugs on the original and the replacement was also terminated with crimp lugs for conformity. My lead has been used at least 500 times now. I do have an original spare in the boot with an adapter lead, as yet unused. Only sign of use is the conductors on the car end of the lead have slightly deformed the rubber outer insulation layer, probably by the coiling / uncoiling process. Hopefully the blue end plug cover will last a few years.

 

[anko]

I was tired of the really short lead as supplied on the control box and having to hang the box on a cord, so I had mine replaced with yes, a heavy duty 15A plug, now 4m longer, 2.5mm conductor cable. "Orange Circular". The hardest task was to open the control box. Glued as well as tamper screws. The gland was a tight fit for the new cable, but no mods needed. The conductors were terminated with crimp lugs on the original and the replacement was also terminated with crimp lugs for conformity. My lead has been used at least 500 times now. I do have an original spare in the boot with an adapter lead, as yet unused. Only sign of use is the conductors on the car end of the lead have slightly deformed the rubber outer insulation layer, probably by the coiling / uncoiling process. Hopefully the blue end plug cover will last a few years.

Thanks for sharing. But for those who want to follow up on this, you should be aware: extending the cable on the "house" side of the control box probably results in the unit not being compliant anymore. In Mode 2 charging devices according to the standard, there should be no more than 30 cm of cable between the plug and the control box. I have a Chare-Amps cable where there is almost 8 meters between the plug and the electronics (which is tugged away in the Type 1 connector), so I am not to worried about it myself

 

[gwatpe]

Thanks for sharing. But for those who want to follow up on this, you should be aware: extending the cable on the "house" side of the control box probably results in the unit not being compliant anymore. In Mode 2 charging devices according to the standard, there should be no more than 30 cm of cable between the plug and the control box. I have a Chare-Amps cable where there is almost 8 meters between the plug and the electronics (which is tugged away in the Type 1 connector), so I am not to worried about it myself

Looks like the standard needs to be rethought out and a revision published. There are far more implications with using an extension cord, as I have seen a few melted examples already, on other cars at public charging points. Black and crispy comes to mind.

 

[hdasmith]

Looks like the standard needs to be rethought out and a revision published. There are far more implications with using an extension cord, as I have seen a few melted examples already, on other cars at public charging points. Black and crispy comes to mind.

I haven't seen that, but have seen people keeping their supplied cable wound around the control box on some types so they don't have a lead on the floor. It surprises me that manufacturers have this design.

 

[jaapv]

Thanks for sharing. But for those who want to follow up on this, you should be aware: extending the cable on the "house" side of the control box probably results in the unit not being compliant anymore. In Mode 2 charging devices according to the standard, there should be no more than 30 cm of cable between the plug and the control box. I have a Chare-Amps cable where there is almost 8 meters between the plug and the electronics (which is tugged away in the Type 1 connector), so I am not to worried about it myself

Looks like the standard needs to be rethought out and a revision published. There are far more implications with using an extension cord, as I have seen a few melted examples already, on other cars at public charging points. Black and crispy comes to mind.

People will insist on using x1.5 cords, preferably rolled onto a reel....
In general the car draws about the same power as a toaster and vacuum cleaner combined.

 

[anko]

Looks like the standard needs to be rethought out and a revision published. There are far more implications with using an extension cord, as I have seen a few melted examples already, on other cars at public charging points. Black and crispy comes to mind.

Nobody said you were supposed to use an extension cord either

The reason for the 30 cm limit is (to my knowledge) based on the assumption that you may connect the cable to an outlet that is not protected by a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) or "aarlekschakelaar" as we call them. In case of a ground fault, no more than 30 cm is unprotected. Not a very common situation in the Netherlands, I would hope. Rather common in the US, I am afraid.

But it is all nothing different from an electric lawn mower and far less dangerous :lol:

 

[puckernutter]

My charger broke as well. The shorter lead between charger and wall socket, the cable simply split somewhere in there. They got me a new one on warranty and said it was the highest reported fault in Sweden among PHEV owners, besides the rattling of the microphone in the upper light dome.

 

[hdasmith]

My charger broke as well. The shorter lead between charger and wall socket, the cable simply split somewhere in there. They got me a new one on warranty and said it was the highest reported fault in Sweden among PHEV owners, besides the rattling of the microphone in the upper light dome.

Thank you for that. Really useful. I'm still really struggling to get this sorted. Will give a deadline of today, two weeks is too long.

 

[anko]

..., besides the rattling of the microphone in the upper light dome.

A bit off-topic, but did they have a solution for that? We had issues in the Netherlands with a rattling sound in the light dome, but it was not a microphone ...

 

[puckernutter]

Yes. There is actually a small counterweight inside to prevent rattling and vibrations. Easy fix by tightening a few screws. Rattling from air vents is also common. Usually loose plastic clips.