Who is ready to adjust the Phev to get EV only mode?

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chasingamy said:
If I cannot get this on this Phev model I will work around it. Pulling the fuel pump fuse definitely works as I said in another discussion and it would not be hard to make that switchable with a simple mod to have a ev only mode.

Just need to find if the error messages that are displayed are set permanently (to be read by Mitsubishi service) which I am working on.

Regards Trex.

Perfect, well found Trex!
I'll be looking for a breach in the firewall to run a couple of wires through to the cabin, where I can switch the fuel pump next weekend.
As for the Mitsu boys finding my mischief in the error message codes, it should be possible to install this in such a way that I can remove the hardware without a trace, before servicing. If they find error codes and query me about them; I am the customer and will just ask them to fix the problem and not bother me with their issues.

Hi chasingamy,

Can you please let us know how you go with finding a "breach" in the firewall as I have not looked yet (cannot get the Phev off the wife at the moment :lol:). The owners manual shows which fuse is the fuel pump under the hood.

BTW love your attitude about the "Mitsu boys". :lol: :lol:

Regards Trex.
 
Trex said:
anko said:
You would expect us (me) to know for sure, but I am not totally 100% convinced. For 99% I would say, it runs for a little while longer, similar to what you see when you exceed 60 kW for a short moment.

OT: The heater itself will never consume more than 4.25 kW as it has two 1.7 kW heating elements and one heating 0.85 kW element, allowing it to consume 0.85, 1.7, 2.55, 3.4 or 4.25 kW.

I badly worded that when I said : keep max output of the electric heater ie 4.25Kw from being exceeded. I meant if the climate control system thought it needed more than the 4.25Kw to heat the cabin it switches on the petrol motor.

Can you find out if the petrol motor stays running for sure and roughly how long after dropping temp setting or is too warm there now it is spring to find out?

Regards Trex.
Too warm now. Finally :D
 
Hello from Bavaria,

I got my new PHEV in June and an EV only mode is what I'm missing most!

Today I tried to pull the fuse number 14 (fuel pump) and the car drove like a dream was comming true. But I felt the car is always trying to turn on the fuel engine, so I had to plug the fuse again, in order to prevent any damages on the starter unit :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:

I REALLY CAN'T UNDERSTAND MITSUBISHI !!! WHY NOT A SOFTWARE-UPDATE WITH AN EASY ADDITIONAL MENU FOR EV ONLY MODE ???

There is a button "Eco Mode". In the setup-menu could be an additional option:

ECO MODE BUTTON:

OPTION A: Button works as it does now

OPTION B: Button activates EV-ONLY-MODE

If they are crative they offer a sub menu in option B:
B1: EV-ONLY-MODE with reduced aircondition and so on
B2: EV-ONLY-MODE without anything reduced

I hate always to have an eye on the needle of the Eco-Instrument. As soon as I step a little bit to hard on the accelerator the fuel engine starts for some seconds. I really want to get rid of this "MALFUNCTION" !!!!

The accelerator in my car has a swith for "KICK DOWN". Why is it not in use??? Why always the fuel engine starts bevore I kickdown??? Even in EV-ONLY-MODE the fuel engine could start if I need power and I use kick down - there is no safety risk !!!

If there are any limits from the battery (2C 4C 6C what ever) the car can limit the acceleration or topspeed in EV-ONLY-MODE - it is my choice to use this slower mode - but Mitsubishi doesn't support this choice !!! Why can other Plugin Hybrids drive EV ONLY and the Mitsubishi not???

After buying my car I thought I will get used to accelerate carefully - but after 3 month I really hate it!!!! In this way I would never buy this car again - An update would be soooo easy !!!

Please, everybody who has the same wish for an EV-ONLY-MODE, please contact Mitsubishi (I will write to the Netherlands) in order to tell them what the users are missing. Our car really could become one of the best cars, but this point needs a change.

Thank you
Peter
 
Peter,

Out of curiosity: how do you know / feel that the car tries to start then engine constantly? I mean, the first time it tries some malfunction light come on, telling you that it happened. That I understand. But these lights stay on, so how do you know what the next time is?

And why do you think this will damage the "starter unit" (I assume you mean the generator?)?
 
In my car there was no malfunction light coming up after I pulled the fuse. I drove about 5 km in this "EV-ONLY-MODE" and whenever the needle of the instrument was in the white power-area the car made this little "jerk", that I usually feel if the fuel engine starts. Even the needle of the instrument moved in this rhythm.

I allready planed to buy this remote set, but after this experience today I won't drive with the pulled fuse again.

Usually after the fuel engine starts there will be oilpressure in the engine. I expect this oilpressure will not be there, if the engine only tries to start. In that case the cylinders and so on move dry without oil after a while. Thats why I expect a damage.

How is your experience? Don't you feel the jerk? Is it possible our cars has a different software?
 
The oil pump is mechanical and driven by the engine rotating. If it doesn't start it doesn't need oil pressure. Your fear is unfounded. What you should fear is the voiding of guaranty by this kind of modification.
 
Hi Peter,

Several people have tried it. All saw their dashboard light up as a X-max tree. Some as a result of driving, some as a result of turning up the heat (models without electric heater will always engage the engine when heat is requested, models with electric heater will some time).

Perhaps you haven't seen these posts yet?

http://www.myoutlanderphev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1326
http://www.myoutlanderphev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=16332#p16332

I must say, 19 out of 20 times, I do not feel my engine engage. I have to check my instruments to see if it is running. And when I do feel something, I think it is more the clutch closing than the engine itself starting.
 
Just before the ICE starts, you can hear a relais click. I thought it came from the fuse box left of my left knie.
If that'd be the case, then there should be an easy access to it...
 
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