Bought EvBatMon for Xmas

It's strange, he always does that (charging to 103-105% SOC).

I still get 60km of EV-range, saturdays when I drive (country roads) to the shooting range and back, incl. a steep climb out of a gravel pit....

Very happy with my outi

Yes, i was talking about battery condition, 95% and 36.4Ah with 23500 km for me is excellent (best I've seen), mine has 25.000 km and 35Ah. Kim how is the weather where you drive?
Mine use to charge up to 103%, and once it arrived to 106.5 % but cells were at 20 ºC not 12. But that is just after a complete charge, some hours later it usually goes down to 98 %.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/t7dsyyjogvawz6e/IMG_1516.JPG?dl=0

Hello, can somebody explain/check this? Evbatmon shows 1,87 kW flowing to the battery, while the meter I installed in front of the plug shows 2,13 kW. Is the efficiency of the charger and cable so low (87%) ?

markogts said:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/t7dsyyjogvawz6e/IMG_1516.JPG?dl=0

Hello, can somebody explain/check this? Evbatmon shows 1,87 kW flowing to the battery, while the meter I installed in front of the plug shows 2,13 kW. Is the efficiency of the charger and cable so low (87%) ?

Click to expand...

Would not call it all that low, actually. 13% loss is not too bad. There may also be some other stuff consuming power while the charger is running, like cooling pumps. This would obviously not show.

HHL said:

markogts said:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/t7dsyyjogvawz6e/IMG_1516.JPG?dl=0

Hello, can somebody explain/check this? Evbatmon shows 1,87 kW flowing to the battery, while the meter I installed in front of the plug shows 2,13 kW. Is the efficiency of the charger and cable so low (87%) ?

Click to expand...

Would not call it all that low, actually. 13% loss is not too bad. There may also be some other stuff consuming power while the charger is running, like cooling pumps. This would obviously not show.

Click to expand...

I too think it is about what you can expect. I see 2.9 kW going in to the battery with 3.3 leaving my house.

Yes, everything is fine with that.
With EvBatMon I found out, that the basic consumption of the PHEV is 300 Watts when the HV system is running.
A 300W loss in translation (AC to DC, plus a higher Voltage) is in fact a VERY low house number compared to most all EVs on the market...!

I am loosing my own configured display pages in Evbatmon every now and then. Any idea what the reason might be and how to prevent this ?

JKL said:

I am loosing my own configured display pages in Evbatmon every now and then. Any idea what the reason might be and how to prevent this ?

Click to expand...

I can't think of a reason why that might be off the top of my head. As an interim solution, I have added a feature request to export & import the gauge configuration file. At least then once you have setup your gauges, you can back them up and reinstate them if required.

For those waiting on the iOS version of EvBatMon I can confirm we are currently in beta testing and on schedule to release around August 28th.

iOS version is available NOW!
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/evbatmon-for-mitsubishi-outlander/id1143901805

Unable to send data "Send Battery Data to Web"
Registration on the site is,
The data in the box Samsung note 4
Step 1: -Ok
Step 2: -Ok
Step 2: -Ok
Data on the website no
http://www.evbatmon.com/EvWebChart/BatteryVsTime


The problem is solved.
Replaced mail with ХХХ@mail.ru on [email protected]
It worked

Which ODB2 adapter do you use and suggest ?

Possibly something payable via PayPal

PS: Just got a cheap Bluetooth adapter for 7USD shipped ... it does work with some other apps on my phone ... but not with EvBatMon

I see this unit is recommended by EvBatMon but not by the UK sellers who say...
"OBDLink MX™ Wi-Fi is a pocket-size Wi-Fi OBD-II adapter for all OBD-II compliant vehicles (except hybrid or electric vehicles). "

Anybody used this device?

BS :mrgreen:

I have one. As a matter of fact I have three. Installed in parallel But for purposes that go beyond EvBatMon.

I am pretty sure, what the vendor means is that the SW they ship with it does not support EV vehicles. EvBatMon will work with it, but it does not need such expensive dother softwares (such as CanIon) do.

Also, IIRC pure EV vehicles are not mandated to have / support an OBD port. But the PHEV does have it and it works well. I saw even the new full EV Opel Ampera e / Chevy Bolt has an BOD port.

Thanks.

The only difference I see in the Scantools MX and LX units is the MX is WiFi and the LX Bluetooth. Have you found the WiFi unit to be better than the Bluetooth LX?

Owned the 2014 PHEV for two weeks.
Have several Bluetooth adapter from earlier. Two do not work on my Nissan Leaf for LeafSpy.
One made the Check Engine light come on, and luckuly I could reset with an APP when I finally connected with the adapter that works.
So DO NOT BUY: http://www.ebay.com/itm/KW903-ELM327-Bluetooth-Car-OBD-OBDII-Auto-Fault-Diagnostic-Scanner-Black-/142048787906?hash=item2112c47dc2
This adapter also made mess on my Leaf.

Car been running in Netherland, imported to Norway.

Odo i 76000km.

Data I got for the battery is 90%, 34,2Ah. Bat MaxOut 59.
My two years older 2012 Leaf has the State of Health 84%, odo 110000km.

The climate were I live (Trondheim, Norway) is good for the battery. Average temp summer, 13,3C, winter -3,3C.

drdel said:

Thanks.

The only difference I see in the Scantools MX and LX units is the MX is WiFi and the LX Bluetooth. Have you found the WiFi unit to be better than the Bluetooth LX?

Click to expand...

I have owned a BT version too. It was not stable, although when using ic/w EvBatMon, you will probably have no issues.

Where EvBatMon is polling for specific information, the tools I use are setup to monitor all traffic on the bus (much like CanIon) which causes much more traffic between the adapter and the phone. When tasked heavily, the adapter would freeze up.

I have also seen Check Engine lights come on, and much much worse (like temporary power steering failures). But not with the MX unit.

Another reason for going with WiFi is that (to my knowledge) you cannot connect to more than one BT adapters at the same time. Even about one BT adapter + MMCS at the same time, I am not sure.

anko said:

I have also seen Check Engine lights come on, and much much worse (like temporary power steering failures). But not with the MX unit.

Another reason for going with WiFi is that (to my knowledge) you cannot connect to more than one BT adapters at the same time. Even about one BT adapter + MMCS at the same time, I am not sure.

Click to expand...

anko,

I have used a LX Bluetooth unit for a while now (before EVBatmon came out, for the DashCommand and Torque Pro apps) and the only time I have had problems was stopping the PHEV and then restarting the PHEV while leaving Torque Pro still running (and not every time). Yes, the Check Engine lights come on and have seen temporary power steering failure (fixed by shutting down PHEV, removing LX and closing Torque Pro and then restarting PHEV).

Never had a problem if I shut down Torque Pro before I restart the PHEV. Actually I close all OBDII apps now when shutting down the PHEV. Takes a couple of seconds. I have to shut them down anyway because they keep my phone screen powered up and would flatten the phone battery.

I hook up to the MMCS to play music (stored on my phone) and use the phone (to take calls) all used at the same time as using the OBDII apps (ie 3 Bluetooth items) . Works well for me.

MX comes in Bluetooth or Wi-Fi but I bought the LX for its cheaper price but it still works at the same speed as MX according to their website at the time.

So the LX is a good unit IMHO but there is a problem in Torque Pro with Bluetooth and OBDII I think.

Regards Trex.

phevnor said:

Owned the 2014 PHEV for two weeks.
Have several Bluetooth adapter from earlier. Two do not work on my Nissan Leaf for LeafSpy.
One made the Check Engine light come on, and luckuly I could reset with an APP when I finally connected with the adapter that works.
So DO NOT BUY: http://www.ebay.com/itm/KW903-ELM327-Bluetooth-Car-OBD-OBDII-Auto-Fault-Diagnostic-Scanner-Black-/142048787906?hash=item2112c47dc2
This adapter also made mess on my Leaf.

Car been running in Netherland, imported to Norway.

Odo i 76000km.

Data I got for the battery is 90%, 34,2Ah. Bat MaxOut 59.
My two years older 2012 Leaf has the State of Health 84%, odo 110000km.

The climate were I live (Trondheim, Norway) is good for the battery. Average temp summer, 13,3C, winter -3,3C.

Click to expand...

I was afraid for the "Battery Condition" of my PHEV which is a Dec2013 with 124000km ... but .. apparently for EvBatMon I get an impressive 94.7% or 36Ah capacity (which for my maths is not 94% ... but more a 90% .. so no idea which maths is used here)

I end up taking the LX bluetooth module, which for some reason was only ~50 Euro shipped from Amazon.de ... and so far is working good ...

I guess how the car is used has big impact on the battery condition .. but 94% after over 3y and over 100k km does look good .. so battery on Outlander PHEV are looking more solid then what I did originally assumed

Question to the EvBatMon user

I would like to use the EvBatMon for log the PID .. and there is a click on the property for do it

Issues is that only the PID on display are used

So I made my custom view .. but for some reason I have following problem:
-Some field appear double in the log ... and apparently is possible to have two icon with the same PID on the display that it is a bit odd .. still I did avoid to have double icon on my display, but still I see multiple PID that show up twice
-Apparently if display go off, or change from landscape to portait mode .. EvBatMon does change set of PID stored in the log and visualized .. so ... I got quite a mess on my first long logging attempt

Has anybody some good tips for make proper logging of the relevant PID using EvBatMon ?

Also .. is possible to know which PID is read from the car, and which is calculated by EvBatMon ?